Selene/Fred is a San Jose built 1965 Mustang

[abrahamfh]

Be careful that the heads don't pop off and fall to the floor. Put a couple of head bolts back in a few threads until the heads are broken free.

Frank

Thank you for the tip Frank, it was the first thing I did when I got home last night.

 

[abrahamfh]

Last night I started off by replacing two bolts to the heads to ensure no accidental foot crushing of any kind. I took Pete's advice and removed the distributor first, I then followed that by removing the PCV valve and another strange component from the intake manifold towards the rear of the motor. I can't figure out what the heck it is, anyone have any ideas?

I swear this poor thing was treated really really bad. Once I got the intake manifold off I found tons of sludge that kind of reminded of me of a burnt log. That intake manifold was FREAKING HEAVY! OMG! Im so glad I removed the distributor, that would have been a pain not being able to get a good grip on it. Thanks Pete.

What would you guys recommend as the next step? Do I need to detach the pushrod from the rocker arm in order to remove the heads?

 

[Horseplay]

The pushrods aren't attached to anything. Loosen up the rocker arms enough to turn them and you can pull out the pushrods. If you are going to reuse anything it's always a good idea to keep track of which stud/valve they are associated. Once you pull the pushrods you can also try and remove the lifters. Egg cartons are great to keep lifters in as you can easily mark where they go on the carton.

Of course, looking at the engine pics...I wouldn't reuse anything on that one! Whoever drove that car thought oil changes weren't necessary.

 

[AzPete]

Looking good.....but the parts are looking beat for sure.

I believe that odd part is a vacuum control using engine temp. as a control point.

After the heads, the pan can come off, plus the oil pump, water pump, timing chain cover and then you have a short block left.....well used.

I pulled an old 260 apart a long time ago and the base of the intake was imprinted on the sludge in the valley. The owner only changed the filter and added a quart of oil. Engine had over 120,000 original miles when it just wore out. Something like 25 pounds of compression all around.

 

[abrahamfh]

The pushrods aren't attached to anything. Loosen up the rocker arms enough to turn them and you can pull out the pushrods. If you are going to reuse anything it's always a good idea to keep track of which stud/valve they are associated. Once you pull the pushrods you can also try and remove the lifters. Egg cartons are great to keep lifters in as you can easily mark where they go on the carton.

Of course, looking at the engine pics...I wouldn't reuse anything on that one! Whoever drove that car thought oil changes weren't necessary.

Thanks for the knowledge Horseplay, I really appreciate it, and also for the tip in regards to the egg carton separator option, I would have never thought of it. The more I tear the engine down the worse its getting, and yeah, the pushrods slid right out as soon as I lifted the heads off the block.

Looking good.....but the parts are looking beat for sure.

I believe that odd part is a vacuum control using engine temp. as a control point.

After the heads, the pan can come off, plus the oil pump, water pump, timing chain cover and then you have a short block left.....well used.

I pulled an old 260 apart a long time ago and the base of the intake was imprinted on the sludge in the valley. The owner only changed the filter and added a quart of oil. Engine had over 120,000 original miles when it just wore out. Something like 25 pounds of compression all around.

Last night I removed both heads, I should have listened to Horseplay and moved the lifters out of the way and just slid out the push rods by hand instead of letting them fall off. I spent most of my time cleaning up all the fluids that dumped out when the heads came off, and all the fluid that continued to pour out everytime I moved the motor from one place to another. Taking the weekend off and heading out to Saucalito, I have never been there before so I figured for my birthday tomorrow I would go and explore someplace new. Totally watching the Sharks game out there, I hope it's still considered Sharks Territory. Anywho, I will get back to the grind on Monday and continue the tear down and my SBF education sessions in the garage.

Thanks for the encouragement Pete, and for checking in on my progress. I will totally take your word for it on that vacuum control, I still have yet to find any info on it online.

Done so far:
"After the heads, the pan can come off, plus the oil pump, water pump, timing chain cover and then you have a short block left.....well used."

:lol :lol :lol :lol "well used." I love how you put it so nicely.

Current condition

 

[66gt350]

I spent most of my time cleaning up all the fluids that dumped out when I removed the heads and all the fluid that continued to pour out everytime I moved the motor from one place to another.

It's a little late now...but whenever I have to yank a head off a motor, I drain the block of radiator fluid. there are two small plugs at the bottom of the block. On the driver's side it's near the back of the block and on the passenger side it near the front. That way when you yank the head, there's no water getting down in the block, and when you move the block around it's not sloshing out.

 

[abrahamfh]

It's a little late now...but whenever I have to yank a head off a motor, I drain the block of radiator fluid. there are two small plugs at the bottom of the block. On the driver's side it's near the back of the block and on the passenger side it near the front. That way when you yank the head, there's no water getting down in the block, and when you move the block around it's not sloshing out.

Good useful information is never late to give. Thank you, now I know that for future engine tear downs. :10

 

[abrahamfh]

I couldn't sleep lastnight, so the logical thing for me to do was head to the garage and get a few more things done with the tear down.

First thing I did was remove the two bolts that hold the oil pump to the block which came off without any fuss.

The next thing I did after that was remove the oil pan. o Holly Crrraaap there are a lot of bolts holding that thing to the block. Jee whiz. Having the block on the cradle style engine stand did not help due to the engine being held so close to the ground and you cant rotate it upside down. Oh well. I did notice that four of the bolts holding the oil pan to the block were different from the rest. I believe the four bolts are 5/8, I don't remember what the others were so when I get home tonight I will update with the details. Once the bolts were all removed I had to assist the oil pan who I guess was going through some separation anxiety. After getting the pan to break its bond with the block, I had to maneuver it out from underneath which was pretty fun. 5 minutes went by and Eureka, finally got it out. After about 25 minutes of hanging out in the garage I was now feeling sleepy, I cleaned up, took some final photos and called it a night.

Oil Pan removed

Nasty stuff inside the Oil Pan

 

[Horseplay]

The first thing you removed was the FUEL pump. The oil pump is visible now that you removed the oil pan.

 

[abrahamfh]

LoL. You are totally right. I don't know what I was thinking, it is the fuel pump. If remember correctly the fuel line comes through the front DS apron and hooks up to it.

 

[Fast68back]

Exactly, it was funny to read you removed oil pump and "The next thing I did after that was remove the oil pan"........ :lol :lol :lol :lol

 

[daveSanborn]

Abe,

In this picture:

Visible adjacent to where you just removed the fuel pump is the port for the oil pressure gauge.... it's the brass looking extension tube thingy. Someone has already modified this tube to provide BOTH a mechanical oil pressure signal AND an electrical signal. When you're discarding items from the block be sure to retain this tube. It's nice to have the option of running either/or/both gauges.

 

[abrahamfh]

Exactly, it was funny to read you removed oil pump and "The next thing I did after that was remove the oil pan"........ :lol :lol :lol :lol

That is pretty funny, didn't think about how funny it was until now, I almost accidentally sent a few apple watermelon nerds into my lungs while I laughed.

The good old which came first, the chicken or the egg scenario. :lol

 

[Fast68back]

Well, you do work at the hospital, they remove quite a few organs with scopes these days. Never seen anyone scope an oil pump though. Seen a few rods and pistons removed without the heads or pan being removed first, but that wasnt by choice, most of the time..

 

[crustycurmudgeon]

I just assumed he did it through the drain plug hole. :weas

Frank

 

[abrahamfh]

Abe,

In this picture:

Visible adjacent to where you just removed the fuel pump is the port for the oil pressure gauge.... it's the brass looking extension tube thingy. Someone has already modified this tube to provide BOTH a mechanical oil pressure signal AND an electrical signal. When you're discarding items from the block be sure to retain this tube. It's nice to have the option of running either/or/both gauges.

Thanks Dave, the guys mentioned it when we pulled the motor but I had already totally forgotten about it. I will most definitely add it to the don't throw away pile, which currently is everything :scar since I really don't know whats reusable or not.

 

[abrahamfh]

Well, you do work at the hospital, they remove quite a few organs with scopes these days. Never seen anyone scope an oil pump though. Seen a few rods and pistons removed without the heads or pan being removed first, but that wasnt by choice, most of the time..

That happened to me once with a 1998 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my ex wifes great aunt who was 94 at the time, she is still alive and well at 98. I guess my brother in law had been driving it and didnt believe in oil changes, I drove it from Los Angeles to the Bay and about a block from my house it started smoking. Once the scene had settled there was a big 3 inch hole in the block. LoL! I still laugh about it, had the car towed to a local charity that accepted it.

 

[abrahamfh]

Took a little break from the engine educational tear down and have been tearing down the internals to the DS door that is going to be replaced.

I had yesterday off from work since I will be working this Saturday and Mike(Garner67) was kind enough to come over and give me a hand removing the front and rear glass. The front glass trim came off pretty smoothly but the rear glass trim was not going down without a fight.

Before the rear trim was removed we could see some rust holes peaking out from under the trim which was disappointing but expected.

Once the trim was removed this is what revealed itself. :scar

DS

PS

A big thanks to Mike for taking the time and giving me a hand with the trim and glass. It's really nice having great people around.

 

[Fast68back]

Is that tape on the cowl? Whats the story there?

 

[abrahamfh]

When I first brought Fred home, Jeff suggested I test the cowl with water. I took the time and cleaned the cowl out really good, I remember using a leaf blower and a wire coat hanger. There was soo much junk in there, it took me like tweenty minutes to clean it out. I did the 10 minute water hose test and everything checked out okay. As soon as the cowl dried I applied newspaper secured by tape to keep junk from entering the cowl while I beat Fred into shape. Probably not necessary but oh well.