• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Finally have the parts to reassemble my engine

If they should break, the tape will help hold the pcs together so they don't end up on the track. So, yes...you are thinking correctly. One of these days I'll get some covers for them and stop taping them up.
 
Got everything in and hooked up. Thought I'd pressure test the coolant system before I pour water into it. Sure enough, where I cut the by-pass nipples off the WP and threaded for plugs, I have a small leak. Tried re-sealing it, but it didn't work. I'll try it again this week with a diff sealer. I'm glad I remembered to check it before adding water! I removed the export brace so it would be out of the way when I replace the break-in springs with the beehives.

Still have to add the oil and prime the pump. Fill the carb bowls with go juice and hit the detonator switch :wth


2011-03-13_16-08-20_654Large.jpg


2011-03-13_16-08-47_832Large.jpg


2011-03-13_16-09-20_525Large.jpg


2011-03-13_16-09-32_68Large.jpg




and the handy dandy spring compressor I borrowed from Dean!

2011-03-05_12-25-25_839Large.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
"silverblueBP" said:
If they should break, the tape will help hold the pcs together so they don't end up on the track. So, yes...you are thinking correctly. One of these days I'll get some covers for them and stop taping them up.

I like the tape Mark, I think it looks cool.
 
"blue65coupe" said:
Would you please tell me what friggin' wp you're using? I'm wanting to run a crossflow radiator and I'm trying to locate a wp for 289 with ds inlet. Thanks for reminding me you've never let me know which wp you run.

Look for a WP for a 1970-up 302, available at any parts store. They changed in '70 to the DS inlet. Everything else is the same until the roller cams/serp belt setup came along.

"silverblueBP" said:
Still have to add the oil and prime the pump. Fill the carb bowls with go juice and hit the detonator switch :wth

Given your history, you might want to avoid certain terminology.

Engine looks great. I know it'll be great hearing it.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
If they should break, the tape will help hold the pcs together so they don't end up on the track. So, yes...you are thinking correctly.

Maybe you should use some of that tape on your valvetrain......... :hide :hide :hide :nut :confu
 
"BobV" said:
Maybe you should use some of that tape on your valvetrain......... :hide :hide :hide :nut :confu


Ouch...that's smarts :nut
 
I hope we're all laughing in a good way tomorrow! I finally have it ready...I think. Just need to pick up 2 rubber caps for the unused snouts coming out of the water pump. Of course they didn't have the needed size in stock, be here in the am.

I tried to get the threaded plugs to seal up to no avail. Got another pump and will just cap them off.
 
Some guys just use a short hose to form a loop... I think it looks goofy, but was under the impression that plugging the heater hose inlet / outlet can create cavitation in the pump... I don't know f the issue is real or percieved... just thought I'd throw it out there.
 
Never seen a problem with that.....but leave it to the Kansas racer to find the once in a lifetime for it to create a problem....

Good luck with the new engine....we need more PT chasing and less engine building.
 
My old WP was capped from the get go and I didn't have any cooling problems, so I'm not concerned about that. I'll cap these snouts off tomorrow and blow start it up. I just figured since I had it apart I'd replace the pump since it had seen 6 years of track abuse!
 
"stangg" said:
Some guys just use a short hose to form a loop... I think it looks goofy, but was under the impression that plugging the heater hose inlet / outlet can create cavitation in the pump... I don't know f the issue is real or percieved... just thought I'd throw it out there.

I was thinking the same thing about restricting waterflow in the waterpump when plugging them.
But I am no expert.

Hopes all goes well with the first firing up :thu :thu and wish you all the best with thisyear of racing :steer :steer :steer :steer :steer
After a long winter , you deserve it :bowdown :bowdown
 
Your gauge may not have shown any cooling issues but the pump can cause cavitation and you should not cap the outlets. Get some SS covered rubber hose to make it look purdy and loop it.

Mel
 
If it would cause cavitation, then all the systems out there that have a water flow cutoff valve (67 and up ?) in the heater hose from the factory are causing a problem.......which I doubt. My Dad's '72 F100/302 never had a problem and it had the water cutoff valve. Also, several of the after market A/C systems use this same type water flow cutoff valve to control heat inside the a/c unit.......Vintage Air for one I know for sure.
 
"AzPete" said:
If it would cause cavitation, then all the systems out there that have a water flow cutoff valve (67 and up ?) in the heater hose from the factory are causing a problem.......which I doubt. My Dad's '72 F100/302 never had a problem and it had the water cutoff valve. Also, several of the after market A/C systems use this same type water flow cutoff valve to control heat inside the a/c unit.......Vintage Air for one I know for sure.

Note I said can cause. Probably depends on the water pump. I wouldn't do it on my 65. I know what you are referring to on the AC unit as the 67 has one.

If I had the reputation for blowing up engines that the OP does and I was racing like the OP is, I wouldn't take any chances at all and would just loop it to ensure proper flow no matter what pump is used.

I have also been know to be wrong.

Mel
 
"guruatbol" said:
If I had the reputation for blowing up engines that the OP does
Mel


Thanks for the vote of confidence Mel :wth :nut
 
"silverblueBP" said:
Thanks for the vote of confidence Mel :wth :nut

I am laughing so hard my sides hurt. Spewed liquid all over the computer!

Sorry if the truth hurts.

I have raced cars in the past and done my fair share of hard driving on all my hobby cars, well, I drive them like I stole them and have never blown an engine, knock on wood! Been to 8k RPM in a SBF in the early 80s. I did blow a head gasket later the next day.

Mel
 
Back
Top