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351W and test stand

Discussion in 'Engine and Drivetrain/Mechanical' started by B67FSTB, May 29, 2018.

  1. B67FSTB

    B67FSTB The NorCal dude from Belgium

    I recently bought an 351W engine from someone who has a 69 cougar XR7.
    I was some kind of cheap depends on how you approch such a buy.
    I needed an engine for my 67 fastback which I bought in Germany.The car was totaled but I see potential in that car because its restorable.
    I didn't hear the engine running but removed the valve covers and it is clean.
    Some exhaust valves were black/wet from oil dripping through the valve guide I presume.
    Later at my place , I noticed that the RH head gasket was mounted falsely. Tab of the gasket was visible at the rear of the engine instead of the front side.Also the exhaust valve of cyl 4 was kind of white/yellow which indicates heat , I guess.
    So I am planning to test run the engine first.
    Because I am on a budget , I scrap everything together what I had laying around at my place.
    I have alot of square tubbing 1 1/2 laying around to make a chassis for the test stand.
    Some things were bought new , 2 of the 4 wheels , some nut and bolts , some sheetmetal.
    I had a alu radiator net so I bought some alu sheetmetal and let it bent into a U-shape profile.
    After some cutting and bending I made the upper and lower collector of the rad which will be mounted on the test stand.
    Here are the pics. BTW I got my inspiration on YouTube channel. Thanks to those guys !!

    Attached Files:

    tarafied1 and Grabber70Mach like this.
  2. B67FSTB

    B67FSTB The NorCal dude from Belgium

    the rad.

    Attached Files:

    Grabber70Mach likes this.
  3. Mach1 Driver

    Mach1 Driver Active Member

    Nice build, I was thinking of making one out of lumber and using the old radiator, etc. for the new engine break-in, then disassemble the kludge to get it out of the way. You've got a valuable piece of equipment there.
  4. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    Nice job! Looks well built. I would advise including a rear mounting fixture for the engine too. Even just a single strut welded to the frame that has a tab to bolt into a bellhousing location, for example. Would make it much more stable when running.
  5. Caper50

    Caper50 New Member

    Nice job. Once I no longer needed my body cart I cut it up and built a test stand too. Now that my engine is back in the car a friend borrowed it to test a 302 for his 66.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Grabber70Mach

    Grabber70Mach Well-Known Member

    Looks good, you did a really good job on it.

    Never argue with a Moron. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

    If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
  7. B67FSTB

    B67FSTB The NorCal dude from Belgium

    Thx guys !
    Yep , I know. Project isn't finished yet. Looking for a nice construction strut set up. ( so I can show of!!).
    BTW , right now the engine has a good front/rear balance.
    Right now I am waiting for some alu tubes to finishe the rad.
    Also still busy to look for electrical parts , like wires , relays ect.
  8. B67FSTB

    B67FSTB The NorCal dude from Belgium

    some more pics

    Attached Files:

    Grabber70Mach likes this.
  9. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    That's pretty sweet, Bruno! Well done.
  10. B67FSTB

    B67FSTB The NorCal dude from Belgium

    Made the shroud and mounted the fan.

    Attached Files:

    Grabber70Mach likes this.
  11. 3175375

    3175375 Well-Known Member

    You should drill holes in the sheet aluminum outside of the fan to get more air flow
  12. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    If mounted in a car those holes you see in some shroud set-ups are to prevent excess pressure build-up in extreme cases. For this purpose, they are not needed. The fan is the only thing causing air movement.
  13. B67FSTB

    B67FSTB The NorCal dude from Belgium

    Correct. In cars they usually have flaps so when pressure built (due to excessive driving) the flaps will open and when the fan kick in , the underpressure ( between rad and shroud) will close the flaps and cooling is forced by the fan.

    Yesterday i got my hedman headers. Nothing special , plain painted iron headers.
    I also used a 64-66 battery tray , drilled out the spotwelds from the support , mounted it on the frame.
    Pics will follow.

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