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opentrackerSteve
Guest
I would use silicone grease, vice vaseline.
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1996 5.8 temp sender
- Thread starter guruatbol
- Start date
GypsyR
just some guy
Since the O-rings are petroleum resistant. you can use what you like. Some folks use motor oil. The real key is don't try to install them dry, it will tear them every time. They have small screens in the top of the injectors. I tend to find rusty looking "dust" in there which is easy enough to rinse out.
The "heat riser" is an EGR tube. You can buy shorty headers from Summit that have provision for the tube. I'm kind of stuck on long tubes myself but there aren't any with EGR for that truck. Although I could and it wouldn't be an issue in my state, I really would rather not disable/bypass the EGR on this particular truck. There is supposedly another lower intake configuration (van I think) where that EGR picks up out of the bottom of the intake instead of the manifold like the 5.0 engines do. If/when I get back to it, I'll dig more deeply into that. In the meantime, the correct shorties should be a direct bolt-on. I might break down and grt those myself since I have enough complicated projects going already.
On my old carbureted 351W F150 when I swapped in long tube headers and a full dual 2 1/4" exhaust I found an extra 2 mpg on long freeway trips. I've been all about a free flowing exhaust system ever since.
The "heat riser" is an EGR tube. You can buy shorty headers from Summit that have provision for the tube. I'm kind of stuck on long tubes myself but there aren't any with EGR for that truck. Although I could and it wouldn't be an issue in my state, I really would rather not disable/bypass the EGR on this particular truck. There is supposedly another lower intake configuration (van I think) where that EGR picks up out of the bottom of the intake instead of the manifold like the 5.0 engines do. If/when I get back to it, I'll dig more deeply into that. In the meantime, the correct shorties should be a direct bolt-on. I might break down and grt those myself since I have enough complicated projects going already.
On my old carbureted 351W F150 when I swapped in long tube headers and a full dual 2 1/4" exhaust I found an extra 2 mpg on long freeway trips. I've been all about a free flowing exhaust system ever since.
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
I have a set in my garage that have been waiting for a home. I thought I could stick these ceramic coated shrties on my truck and thus find a home. Bypassing my EGR in Southern Utah I'd not a problem since we don't have smog checks nor smog for that matter.
How would I bypass the EGR?
Mel
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How would I bypass the EGR?
Mel
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kb3
Well-Known Member
You can by an EGR bypass device that plugs into the harness to fool the computer into thinking the EGR is still installed. I think it was around $20
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
OK here is an update. pictures will follow. I officially hate working on truck and hate even more late model trucks! First you have to have a step and they slip around the garage while working.
I never was able to get the broken bolt out of my head, so I went to king Heads in Oakland, CA and bought a set of new heads. They were almost the same price as reman heads. So they took the slow boat from China, or I should say Alabama, to get here. They were supposed to be here on the 3rd, but Fedex driver somehow missed my box and the guy called and told me. He said that Fedex would make sure they got here on Monday. Well they went from the SoCal warehouse and went to Alabama then to Texas and then to Salt Lake City before making it to my house two hours north of Las Vegas.
I took today off and got started on it this morning. Took a bit of time but I got everything clean and the heads on. I just finished the driver side exhaust manifold after struggling with it and taking it off three times because two of the bolts would not go in.
I needed food so a break is in order and back to the passenger side exhaust manifold. I have a set of Ceramic coated headers that would fit, I should have just done an EGR delete and put them on.
I am in hopes that once I get past the exhaust manifolds the hard part is over and everything else will just go together as it should.
My truck is red and white, so I painted my heads red. I must say they do look pretty good.
Mel
I never was able to get the broken bolt out of my head, so I went to king Heads in Oakland, CA and bought a set of new heads. They were almost the same price as reman heads. So they took the slow boat from China, or I should say Alabama, to get here. They were supposed to be here on the 3rd, but Fedex driver somehow missed my box and the guy called and told me. He said that Fedex would make sure they got here on Monday. Well they went from the SoCal warehouse and went to Alabama then to Texas and then to Salt Lake City before making it to my house two hours north of Las Vegas.
I took today off and got started on it this morning. Took a bit of time but I got everything clean and the heads on. I just finished the driver side exhaust manifold after struggling with it and taking it off three times because two of the bolts would not go in.
I needed food so a break is in order and back to the passenger side exhaust manifold. I have a set of Ceramic coated headers that would fit, I should have just done an EGR delete and put them on.
I am in hopes that once I get past the exhaust manifolds the hard part is over and everything else will just go together as it should.
My truck is red and white, so I painted my heads red. I must say they do look pretty good.
Mel
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
OK, time for the intake. I'm done under with draining the oil and hooking up the exhaust.
Lower intake then front accessories and dizzy then upper intake and cross our fingers it starts.
Mel
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
Lower intake then front accessories and dizzy then upper intake and cross our fingers it starts.
Mel
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
Attachments
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
Have I mentioned I hate to work on late model vehicles? They are such a pain in the butt! If this was one of the Mustangs I would have had it done hours ago and driving it like I stole it!
I am down to the little crap stuff like reassembling the front of the engine, spark plug wires and radiator. All day for this? WTF?
Mel
I am down to the little crap stuff like reassembling the front of the engine, spark plug wires and radiator. All day for this? WTF?
Mel
RyanG85
Well-Known Member
19 years old.... not that much of a late model.....
I'm working on a 2010 F250 with a 5.4. Replacing the passenger exhaust manifold, talk about a pain in the ass. Need to remove the starter, ac compressor, right motor mount, frame bracket, fan and y-pipe.
I'm working on a 2010 F250 with a 5.4. Replacing the passenger exhaust manifold, talk about a pain in the ass. Need to remove the starter, ac compressor, right motor mount, frame bracket, fan and y-pipe.
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
Well, I had to stop. I need a large torqx bit for the belt tensioner. So what's left after an entire 16 hour day?
The front of the engine accessories, radiator, fan and shroud. It has to run tomorrow! I need the spot in the garage while we are on vacation next week. I have one vacuum line I can't figure out. It comes from the speed control. I am running out of parts and there is nothing left for a vacuum line.
Mel
The front of the engine accessories, radiator, fan and shroud. It has to run tomorrow! I need the spot in the garage while we are on vacation next week. I have one vacuum line I can't figure out. It comes from the speed control. I am running out of parts and there is nothing left for a vacuum line.
Mel
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
O
opentrackerSteve
Guest
That looks like a MAP sensor?
kb3
Well-Known Member
Not the MAP sensor. It's the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/how-to-test-the-egr-system-4.
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
Where does the other end of the hose go?
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Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
kb3
Well-Known Member
My guess is the vacuum tree on the upper manifold. I will research it....
kb3
Well-Known Member
Check out that link. Should be two vacuum lines.
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
OK, it ran spewing fuel everywhere. It was coming from driver side fuel rail. I took apart the fuel rail and replaced some O rings and bam problem solved.
Now it surged at idle and I have exhaust leaks like mad.
It did move out of the garage under its own power.
The plan it to seek and destroy the exhaust leaks and check the computer codes. The OD light on shifter is blinking.
I have to wait until after vacation though. No time before we leave today.
Mel
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
Now it surged at idle and I have exhaust leaks like mad.
It did move out of the garage under its own power.
The plan it to seek and destroy the exhaust leaks and check the computer codes. The OD light on shifter is blinking.
I have to wait until after vacation though. No time before we leave today.
Mel
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
OK, now that I am back from vacation, I can focus on getting the truck back on the road. It did leave my garage under its own power.
When I fired it up the fuel rail on the driver's side was leaking badly. I pulled it and replaced some O rings and put it back together and drove it out to the driveway.
I still have to find where that line goes and when started it runs up and back down in RPM and continues. I have a large exhaust leak I need to fix and of course that vacuum line.
When I started it the OD light on the shifter blinks. I am thinking that since the radiator was pulled it may be low on trans fluid. I was hoping to get it up to operating temp before I checked that.
I borrowed a code reader and hooked it up and do not get any codes.
So here are my thoughts....
1 - Fix the exhaust leak which is likely the bottom of one or both the exhaust manifolds. I opted to put the stock ones back.
2 - find where the vacuum line goes
3 - disconnect the battery to make sure all codes are cleared.
4 - Start it and check trans fluid - Should I add some first? Could that be my blinking light issue?
Any of you Computer equipped car gurus care to speculate and suggest a course of action?
Mel
When I fired it up the fuel rail on the driver's side was leaking badly. I pulled it and replaced some O rings and put it back together and drove it out to the driveway.
I still have to find where that line goes and when started it runs up and back down in RPM and continues. I have a large exhaust leak I need to fix and of course that vacuum line.
When I started it the OD light on the shifter blinks. I am thinking that since the radiator was pulled it may be low on trans fluid. I was hoping to get it up to operating temp before I checked that.
I borrowed a code reader and hooked it up and do not get any codes.
So here are my thoughts....
1 - Fix the exhaust leak which is likely the bottom of one or both the exhaust manifolds. I opted to put the stock ones back.
2 - find where the vacuum line goes
3 - disconnect the battery to make sure all codes are cleared.
4 - Start it and check trans fluid - Should I add some first? Could that be my blinking light issue?
Any of you Computer equipped car gurus care to speculate and suggest a course of action?
Mel
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
A search into your owners manual may revile what the blinking OD light means.
From Infinity and beyond
Never Argue With A Moron– They Will Drag You Down To Their Level, Then Beat You With Experience
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
From Infinity and beyond
Never Argue With A Moron– They Will Drag You Down To Their Level, Then Beat You With Experience
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
GypsyR
just some guy
A blinking OD light is the transmission's version of a check engine light. Fluid only a quart or so low won't set it off. A generic type code reader generally won't read transmission/ABS/Airbag type codes which are usually referred to in code reader advertising as "manufacturer specific" codes. You need a more upscale code reader to see what they are. The homebody type without such a reader might clear the code memory and see if it/they reset again. Sometimes it can be a one-time thing. (Easy stuff first) When disconnecting the trans cooler you usually only lose a very small amount of fluid. An E4OD (like you have) is pretty tolerant of not being perfectly full of fluid. (Not that that is at all recommended!)
I could go look at my trucks but off the top of my head a green hose goes to the EGR controls. Red goes to the fuel pressure regulator. And white goes to the HVAC. I know I missed something but in that year I also know there are no cruise control related vacuum lines.
I could go look at my trucks but off the top of my head a green hose goes to the EGR controls. Red goes to the fuel pressure regulator. And white goes to the HVAC. I know I missed something but in that year I also know there are no cruise control related vacuum lines.