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screw-in studs for 351W ?

B67FSTB

The NorCal dude from Belgium
OK.
Made a big mistake by not checking the hight of the pressed-in rocker arm studs of my 351W when dissembling the heads.
The heads came back from the machine shop (see other thread ) and I assembled the valves .
Today I assembled the heads and when adjusting valves ...I noticed on some valves I bottomed out of thread !!!
To fix it now , the use of a few washers would help me but i don't like it.
I want to fix it right.
So i am looking for some screw-in rocker arm studs.
So here I want you all some imput.
upper thread is 5/16 unf , shank is 3/8 ... so i am looking for a screw-in stud like 5/16 unf upper part and 7/16 unc lower thread.
Have to widen the hole with a 25/64 drill so i can tap 7/16 thread.
Am I right and were to find cause i can't !!!
need help here or some good advice.
 
After some research I think I need following studs.
  • Part Number: ARP 134-7104
  • 2.605" Overall stud length
  • 1.895" Stud height
  • 0.710" Screw-in thread depth
  • 1.000" Adjuster thread depth
  • 3/8"-24 Fine thread
  • 7/16"-14 Coarse thread
  • and 3/8 self locking nuts .
Can someone acknowledge that ?
 
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Was going to tell you ARP. I might actually have a set I could send you. I'll go out to the garage and check.
 
After some research I think I need following studs.
  • Part Number: ARP 134-7104
  • 2.605" Overall stud length 2.573"
  • 1.895" Stud height 1.762"
  • 0.710" Screw-in thread depth .705"
  • 1.000" Adjuster thread depth .800"
  • 3/8"-24 Fine thread
  • 7/16"-14 Coarse thread
  • and 3/8 self locking nuts
ARP 134-7104 is the correct ARP part for SBF threaded studs (3/8" upper thread). There is also a full 7/16" stud sets I use for higher reving than stock engines. Here is a link to the actual ARP page for SBF rocker studs. Lots to choose from. I measured an actual stud from the 134-7104 set and put the measurements in red next to what you got off the old interweb.


With stock rocker arms that set you list should work fine. I can send you the set I have (used for a mock-up engine but never ran). You'd still need to buy the nuts somewhere I don't have any on hand.
 
Ok. I did some measurements on my engine.
Installed Stud Height 1,795
Thread lenght 0,762
So , the ARP 7104 won't work but yours Terry will do the job I think.
sent pm.
 
I have been reading alot and I am a bit wiser now.
From mid 68 on, ford 302 and 351 engines have rocker arm installation with positiv stop.( so they have to bottom out )
IOW , on a 69 351W engine , the rockerarm nut have to bottom out whitin 1 -1,8 turn after zero lash with the lifter.
I was wrong here cause I tought I should use the older adjusting method. (Some rockerarms did bottom out whitin 1 turn cause some studs came loose )
To achieve 1 -1,8 turn you have to change pushrod lenght.
Anyway, the idea of screw-in rocker arm studs hasn't left my mind.
 
For now I have shimmed the rockers arms as you said Terry.
The dimensions of the screw in studs looks to be the 7101. Is that possible ?
Meanwhile I got the engine running on the test stand. It runs !
I will make a small video.
 
OK , here it is. Its a crappy video but I will shoot one later with better quality and dials that work !!
I didn't tune the engine yet. Just a raw tune on hear.
I bought this engine and found out alot of things were wrong.
First I found out one side headgasket was installed wrong !! So the heads had to come off.
Second , when I got the engine running , sort of speak , I noticed fuel was poring into the carb . Remember collaps float !! (floater)
So , I have a machine shop revised the heads completely.
Restored the carb. Beadblasted and painted the intake.
Still some work to get the alternator work , water temp is OK with fan at low speed, oil pressure is about 45 psi .
Any comments are appreciated .Good and BAD !!

 
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It lives! Did it fire right up and everything go well with the cam break-in or did you use the original cam and lifters?
 
For now i use the orignal cam and lifters.
Once the carb got fuel , it fired right up. ( no 360° mistake :p )
No blue or black smoke !!
I used the garden hose to flush the block for now . Have to look for some kind of block cleaner so the rust particles are out and away.
A gano filter at $120 overhere is a bit too expensive for me.
I contacted LUNATTI and they suggested this cam for a bit more power on a 351W-4V with 10.4 CR.
Next thing to do is antifreeze , get the alternator working and all gauges.
Tune the engine .
This is one of my corona projects to keep me busy.
 
That's a pretty stout cam for a street car. Specs say it will have a pretty good sound to it too!
 
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