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Door Glass Alignment Help 66 Coupe

cturboaddict

New Member
So, I'm struggling here. I've read a bunch of threads and watched videos and I'm having issues that I just need some direction/assistance on.
66 Coupe, was apart when I bought car. Have new regulators,new weatherstrip, new rear guides, new front guides, new rollers.

Here was the process I was following for the moment. I do not have a manual that tells me the glass alignment process.
1. Set Rear Quarter window and adjust for proper seating into weatherstrip. Confirm window up/down, set stops.
2. Install Front Vent window, leaving loose.
3. Install Door glass.
4. Adjust vent window with two top bolts for alignment to pillar. use top in/out adjuster to align vent window.
NOW I'M STUCK DUE TO THE BINDING/Misalignment

Passenger Side- I have it "Aligned" pretty well. But, when you roll the window all the way up to seat on the weatherstrip properly. The rear lower corner of the window will bind in the rear guide track, and you CANNOT roll the window back down without unbolting the vent window allowing it rotate free. Otherwise it will tear the felt in the tear track. (Don't ask me how I know).
Pass Side Overall.jpg
Pass Side to Rear Quarter.jpg

Pass Vent 2.jpg
Rear Quarter 1.jpg

Drivers Door-
Same Process, but the window is not rolling up square to the car. So, I cannot even get it aligned to look right. The rear portion of the window is tilted a significant amount higher than the front. I can Rock the window by grabbing it, but as soon as you touch the handle, it cocks in the frame immediately. The drivers door will do the exact same thing as the passenger, where it will bind if you roll it all the way up to seat at the weatherstrip. You again, cannot get the window down without unbolting the vent window loose or will tear the felt in the rear guide.

Driver Overall.jpg
 

cturboaddict

New Member
Try this link. Page 32


It took me days to get mine right.
The site makes me have to pay.

An update.... I took an hour break from it, as I was getting frustrated. Out of curiosity, I pulled the new rear track out and replaced it with my one good OEM one. Low and behold, no more binding, and the window was pretty close to being aligned properly after a quick adjustment.

So, I stripped my other OEM rear track and refelted it and installed in place of the new rear track. Now I've got both doors at 95% where I want them.
So, in essence.... Don't buy these tracks, they are horrid.
 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
Late to the party here but when in doubt ALWAYS blame any re-pop part involved. You should also note any used in an effort for which you are asking help as everyone here would have likely immediately pointed to it as the probable issue. So many have "been there and done that". Would have saved you a lot of frustration and money in the first place if you had followed the golden rule - Always use original parts when possible.

On a better note, happy you seem to have gotten it all worked out!
 

cturboaddict

New Member
Thing was... I bought my car completely disassembled and blasted and primed. Everything came in boxes.
More often than not, I buy a replacement part because I cannot find the OEM one. Then, later (like for instance the door runs) I discover them buried in some box that came with the car.

I can tell you this, I've had success with some. But you're absolutely correct that I have better success either repairing or reusing the OEM.
 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
You're like many of us than as I have quite an assortment of new stuff collecting dust as I found the originals a better option. It's not always a knock on the re-pop part either. Sometimes the car itself is a bit off which makes the equally odd original a better fit!
 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
I should add that windows are over-rated anyway. Mine are always down because, well, that's the way it's meant to be.
 

KBMWRS

What did the moron say today?
Donator
Do you know what distributor you got the parts from? NPD, Mustang Plus.....?
 
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