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Battery wiring

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
Hey guys

Finally getting around to relocating battery.

Looking for suggestions on wiring for up front . Would like to clean it up a bit.

I have a wire for the alternator and the wire going to the solenoid. Then a cable from the trunk to tie together.




I'm looking at a terminal stud block to tie these together up front.

Maybe a through stud with battery cable on the fender into the engine compartment? Or just a simple stud in the engine compartment?

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Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
I used the piece in your last pic for power points of both direct battery power and also "key'd on" power. Under my dash. Underhood I would use similar but something with as weather-proof a cover as possible. Also coat any bare metal contact with dielectric grease or similar to prevent corrosion.

You'd really be doing yourself a favor by mounting the starter relay in an enclosure of sorts in the space vacated by the battery. That way you can tuck everything away neatly out of sight and secure from weather, etc. I relocated my relay to the trunk as well. Bear in mind, doing this ups the ante on cost quite a bit as you will now be running multiple heavy gauge wires back and forth. If you do run wires this way make sure they are securely mounted and well insulated. Also of proper gauge. You start running high amp draw long distance you need seriously thick wire. Good wire. Don't buy cheap stuff on EBay. You want high strand count, 100% copper. Many a car fire has sprung up when guys tried to cut corners!
 

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
I'm not planning on relocating the relay to the trunk. My engine bay is not anything to look at. Just want to clean it up a bit.

I was thinking I might move the relay and make a quick box down lower, but I'm also planning to use that space to run my air intake now.

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B67FSTB

The NorCal dude from Belgium
Well, I also was thinking of relocate my battery to the back/trunk.
If you have an old style starter , then it is more complicate to route the wiring in a proper matter.
But I have a modern style starter and want to go this route :
Starting van the +pole of the battery , going over the rear right wheelwell , to the rocker and use the top channel under the sill plate to go to the front right kick panel , going from there on to the left , under the carpet , and install that terminal you showed in that first picture , I would use a location as close to the starter as possible. From that terminal , to the starter and from the starter to the alternator.
From there on , you can use a smaller wire to the starter solenoid. You have to draw a small wire or extend the "S" wire at the starter solenoid and connect it to the "50" terminal at the starter.
You can go even further and draw a wire from that terminal to the ignition switch and eliminate that orginal wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the ignition switch.
 

stangg

Well-Known Member
I'm not planning on relocating the relay to the trunk. My engine bay is not anything to look at. Just want to clean it up a bit.

I was thinking I might move the relay and make a quick box down lower, but I'm also planning to use that space to run my air intake now.

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If you move the relay to the trunk with the battery, the 0 to 2 gauge wire to power your starter will be the only real heavy gauge wire running front to back. It will only be hot while cranking the engine.

The wire between the Alternator and Battery only needs to be something like a 4 to 8 gauge wire (depending on accessory load), and most importantly can be fused. This setup is much better from a short / fire protection perspective than running a 0-2 gauge wire that is not fused and hot all the time. It's nothing about a pretty engine compartment, but more of a safety issue.
 

B67FSTB

The NorCal dude from Belgium
If you move the relay to the trunk with the battery, the 0 to 2 gauge wire to power your starter will be the only real heavy gauge wire running front to back. It will only be hot while cranking the engine.

The wire between the Alternator and Battery only needs to be something like a 4 to 8 gauge wire (depending on accessory load), and most importantly can be fused. This setup is much better from a short / fire protection perspective than running a 0-2 gauge wire that is not fused and hot all the time. It's nothing about a pretty engine compartment, but more of a safety issue.
Not a bad idea .
 

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
Pulled some of the interior bits and started looking at routes to run the wiring.

Cleanest option is over the rear wheel well, down behind quarter window and into the channel in door frame. Seems to be good?

I'll put some wire wrap and secure it when I'm done planning the rest.

Working 7 days a week, so I get an hour or 2 a day at best.
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Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
That's the preferred path and the one I followed. I Made a few quick brackets that I welded to the pinch point at the top of the wheel well along the way to secure the wire to with cable clamps. You want to make sure it sits stable with no movement especially if it crosses over any potential sharp point (like in your pic where it goes over the pinch point (This could lead to cutting into the wire over time). Just putting it in a sleeve isn't enough. Where is comes out up front you need to sleeve it in something for protection as well. It could see road debris hitting it and may come in close contact with the exhaust. I buy lots of stuff from Wirecare.com for this purpose. They have quite a selection of materials and price points.

What size wire is that you are using? It looks too small. Don't skimp here. There are a lot of amps (heat) running that wire during cranking. The longer it is the more the draw increases. The wire I used left almost no room in the door channel. The diameter of the wire itself was about .625" whereas yours looks to be about .375". All wire is not created equal either. Don't buy some junk, low strand count welding wire in a minimal gauge. Not worth the risk. You want a high quality copper, high strand count, well insulated purpose made wire.

Spend some time here. Read all you can. I talked to this guy for well over an hour one night. He is an amazing source of knowledge...but he can talk and talk. I bought my wire from him along with a ton of supplies to stock up my auto-electric cabinet.

 

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
The wire is 2 guage copper stranded from either summit or jegs. Bought it a couple years ago and can't remember, but I know it was one of them.

It's not staying on that pinch weld either. It's just hanging there until I figure out battery box location. I will certainly clamp it securely as well.

I look at that link later tonight after work.

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Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
If you're wiring up a small boat it looks good to me. It's even Coast Guard approved! Otherwise, get a better suited wire/cable. That one is not nearly up to the task. Check out the wire in the link I posted. Night and day superior even if it were the same small gauge. Car fires are not fun. It's not like we ever hear about (or have experienced) a stuck starter relay in an old mustang.
 

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
I spent about an hour on that website last night.

I'll try to call them sometime this week since they don't have online ordering. Can't do anything during the day at work.

I guess the stang might not be coming out this summer after all.

Man I need a vacation.

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Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
I want to say his name was Mark but I could be wrong. He's an older guy, spent his working life in automotive electrics. Knows his stuff. Has done anything you might think of three times or more. Very willing to share and answer questions, offer guidance but he can go on for a while. Wait until you have the time to spend before you call. Its worth the investment. You will learn a lot. He won't over sell you either. Good man.
 

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
Well I've been trying to get a hold them for the last week now. Called everyday and no answer.

May have to find a different source I guess.

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Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
Call at off hours. Early AM and early evening PST. He's older and not always working or around. You can get lots of stuff from other sources but the cable he sells is the best I found anywhere and I haven't found another source for it. Plus his pricing on it is very fair. I'd better try to get ahold of him myself as I will be wanting some for the truck soon. It won't be as long a run as a car trunk mount but I still want to use the same on the build. If I reach him first I will try and nail down a time you can reach him as well and let you know.
 

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
That's where I've been trying.

My schedule is pretty awful right now. I work 7 days a week 10-8ish.

Being in retail I can't just call in between customers. It's non stop.

I'll keep trying.

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Midlife

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
That's where I've been trying.

My schedule is pretty awful right now. I work 7 days a week 10-8ish.

Being in retail I can't just call in between customers. It's non stop.

I'll keep trying.

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You need to consider retiring, like KBMWRS and that quack Midlife...
 
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