WalMart Super Tech Fluids

[65coupei6]

I have been doing some research on the WallyWorld fluids. It seems they have used different companies over the years for oil, atf, ect... Who ever gives them
the cheapest price wins. If you want to see who currently supplies the fluids. Here is the Material Safety Data Sheets with manufacturer info.

Just type in Super Tech for Product Name. http://msds.walmartstores.com/

 

[KBMWRS]

You want us to do research? :shrug Come'om Marco isn't that why we hired you? :roll
What's the answer? Can we buy Wally Oil?

 

[buening]

Specialty Oil Company out of Houston, Tx. Never heard of them.

 

[FordDude]

Specialty Oil Company out of Houston, Tx. Never heard of them.

Maybe it is a division of Ewing Oil.

:sarc

fd

 

[ZFORCE]

I've been using the Wallyworld Synthetic for years. I started buying it when it was $11.88 for a 5 gallon container. It was the best deal going. Well, it's been going up ever since. I think it's up to $19 for the same container. Still a deal though since it's 100% synthetic and not a blend. It is SAE approved. I'm not a racer, have had too many cars to remember, never had one that die because of "bad" oil (only "bad oil changers, but that's another topic"), always change my oil regularly, never bought into that 3 month/3000mile recommendation, and just don't put that much research into oil products.

Can anyone out there prove to me that any oil is really that much better than the competition, taking into account regular oil changes??? SAE is SAE for a reason. I'm not talking zinc additives and all that, just oil for regular cars.

 

[jims6t6]

SAE is SAE for a reason. I'm not talking zinc additives and all that, just oil for regular cars.

Oil must meet a minimum to get the SAE stamp of approval. Companies can and do put additives in their oil which is helpful.

 

[Horseplay]

Can anyone out there prove to me that any oil is really that much better than the competition, taking into account regular oil changes??? SAE is SAE for a reason. I'm not talking zinc additives and all that, just oil for regular cars.

Not being in the oil industry I can't "prove" anything on this subject. I can, however, tell you that as a manufacturer of any product there are certainly higher and lower grades produced. My present employer makes dozens of grades of masking tape. I'm not talking various widths here. Things like paper thickness, adhesive types or thickness, release coats, etc. are all varying properties that constitute the purpose or performance in the product. Do you really think our retail "Pro Grade" is equivalent to our professional trade product marketed for the same purpose?

In my career, I have been in just about every type of manufacturing facility. I've stood by production lines and have seen the exact same product go into a major branded package and then straight into a "Great Value" box. I've also seen entire lines shutdown and flushed out before a brand change on the "same" item. I can tell you which store brand ice cream is the same as the top selling brand. Or tuna, or canned vegetable, or dry cereal, etc. I can also tell you which ones are made the most cheaply.

My message here is simple. You usually get what you pay for but there are some exceptions. Just because something is labeled the same is not anywhere close to a guarantee that it really is. One guy's fully synthetic could be of such low quality another company would not even release it. Not saying that is the case here at all. Just that it could be. When a company has worked hard to earn a consumer recognized "top brand" you can pretty much rest assured that the product wearing that banner will be of higher quality than most. The brand affords the luxury of commanding a higher price to support the added cost and the company will invest the dollars to maintain the quality and associated brand recognition. It all comes back to, "You get what you pay for" in most cases.

 

[guruatbol]

I wasn't going to say anything because I am not an oil expert, but when I was first learning about cars, my Step-Dad worked at Chevron Chemical in LA. They made many of the additives you find in motor oil and other oil based fluids.

He made a point to tell me the "Mouse Oil" as he called it was a waste of money. He was referring to the oil additives that you put in your oil like STP. He further went on to tell me that the Paraffin found in the oils like Pennzoil were actually bad for your engine and didn't matter if you change your oil on time. We changed oil every 5000 miles or four months if the car sat around. Our cars rarely sat around, so 5000 miles is normally when we did our changes.

OK, he also told me that the brand of oil is not important. I found this to be strange coming from a company man. I used to use Valvoline 20-50 racing oil, well still do in the 65. He would tell me all the time I was wasting my money.

I currently use Delo, Rotello or Wal-Mart brand oil for my F350. I have found while driving the Buses that the brand is less important than the change interval. On my wife's Excursion I use a high mileage blend with Teflon in the correct weight of what ever brand is on sale. Last time was Quaker State. In the Mustangs I still try to use Valvoline racing in a 20-50. I change my oil on time and don't worry too much about it.

I just wanted to comment about the commercials you see from Ford about the sludge in the engine they claim is due to poor oil change intervals. That engine either has tons of mile on it or is a test engine to see what would happen if there were no oil changes done at all. Point being that it is an extreme case made to scare people into changing their oil more, thus boosting sales.

At any case, you really should change oil during normal operation at least every 5000 miles or 7000 mile in the case of my 3 gallon diesel engine.

Mel

 

[opentrackerSteve]

ya get what ya pay for. period.

Royal Purple, AMSOIL and other highe end synthetics provide extended breakdown protection and corrosion protection.

It can be proven in the analysis of the oil after it's been run in the car for long periods of time....

I have personally seen better performance (Total Base # and viscocity) out of AMSOIL than Castrol GTX and Mobil 1. I am experiementing with Royal Purple right now in my F250 Diesel....

I'd only puy wallyworld oil in my lawnmower.

 

[buening]

At any case, you really should change oil during normal operation at least every 5000 miles or 7000 mile in the case of my 3 gallon diesel engine.

I laughed at the dealership for my BMW when they told me the oil change intervals were 16,000 miles (synthetic). I go 8k on synthetic in that car, but every 3-4k on dino oil.

 

[guruatbol]

Steve, you have long respect from me, but I have to say, someone makes Wal-Mart oil. I have seen some name brand oils being produced in other peoples factories. I worked for a Chemical company that made cutting fluids and cleaning blends. So I have seen some name brand stuff come off the line at our factory.

I know the formula is based on the formula of the name brand company and maybe the formula for Wal-Mart oil is different, but for regular old drive around town miles, do you really expect a difference? If so where and is it an important one? If there is a difference in MPG and it turns out to save more at the pump than the oil costs, then it would be worth it.

Most people don't keep their DD cars all that many miles as to require something that would extend the life of the engine, and resale value isn't any higher based on the type of oil you use. I am not saying that when I look for a used car, I don't care if the PO has used synthetic in it or that I don't keep my cars loads of miles, just talking average folks.

My 7.3 PS has never had anything better than Delo in it and it has 220k and running very strong, minus an exhaust leak I need to get fixed. The oil comes out black like any other diesel I have ever had the displeasure of changing oil in. Even the Cats and Detroits in the Buses we run Delo in and they last 1.2 million miles or more before we get rid of them.

So I ask what is the performance difference and is it worth the extra cost in any vehicle that is not your baby?

Oh, if you can change the oil at longer intervals then is the cost difference a wash? ie. more oil changes with cheaper oil and therefore the same cost. Fewer changes does have an impact on the environment though. That is a good thing. Right?

Mel

 

[KBMWRS]

When all is said and done you buy and use the oil that gives you piece of mind. That's all it comes down to.

Now excuse me while I change the oil in my tires and power steering. :roll

 

[opentrackerSteve]

Oh, if you can change the oil at longer intervals then is the cost difference a wash? ie. more oil changes with cheaper oil and therefore the same cost. Fewer changes does have an impact on the environment though. That is a good thing. Right?

Mel

I change all of my vehicle's oil once per year and save my time in doing so. My decision to do that demands the best product in the vehicle to maximize it's life. I forgot to add that. I have a 6.0L powerstroke with 105k on the clock and it's going to last another 20 years for me......

 

[guruatbol]

I change all of my vehicle's oil once per year and save my time in doing so. My decision to do that demands the best product in the vehicle to maximize it's life. I forgot to add that. I have a 6.0L powerstroke with 105k on the clock and it's going to last another 20 years for me......

OK, that makes much more sense to me now Steve.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Mel