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Shelby drop and lowering spring

6

67stang

Active Member
I have a 67 fastback. And I just bought I inch lowering spring and SPS 94210 lowering control arm/shelby drop and adjustable camber. I'm a rookie at this but I see everyone talking about if you drop more then an inch you need to do a negative wedge kit? What is that? I think the SPS comes with it?
9973428e304822f8f3d887cf70664fc8.png
. Also as it stands my tire is about 2 3/4 to the wheel well. I'm thinking I'm might get wheel rub?
e43e89ce9ede9a1bbbd23e48c6161ec9.jpg
thoughts?


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The wedge kit installs on the arm between the arm and the ball joint. The arm you posted has the drop built into the mounting assembly rather then drilling new holes. Different, most people will complain about that design.

To better answer your question, if your arm came assembled as pictured, look for a wedge shaped piece where the ball joint mounts to the arm, I would guess thats why you don't see it separately
 
Boom said:
The wedge kit installs on the arm between the arm and the ball joint. The arm you posted has the drop built into the mounting assembly rather then drilling new holes. Different, most people will complain about that design.

To better answer your question, if your arm came assembled as pictured, look for a wedge shaped piece where the ball joint mounts to the arm, I would guess thats why you don't see it separately
Click to expand...
So would I need to install a wedge kit? And why do they not like the design?


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67stang said:
So would I need to install a wedge kit? And why do they not like the design?


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Click to expand...

Do you think using the 1 inch drop springs with the lower control arm with the Shelby drop is to much?


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The reason the wedge is needed on a big drop is to prevent the control arm from contacting the spindle if I remember right. Causes binding and can break the ball joint if you bottom the suspension out suddenly.

Almost everyone uses the 1" drop springs and the Shelby/Arning drop, you should be fine. The Shelby drop really only drops the front about 3/8"-1/2" measured at the wheel. Its main benefit is better suspension geometry.

That particular design causes people to question the strength of that control arm cross brace. Instead of the holes being in the middle of the brace, they're offset on little bumps above the main brace. I'm not a structural engineer so I can't argue whether that has any truth or not, but I can see how some people might worry. Though, I've never seen or heard of a design like that ever failing.
 
Boom said:
The reason the wedge is needed on a big drop is to prevent the control arm from contacting the spindle if I remember right. Causes binding and can break the ball joint if you bottom the suspension out suddenly.

Almost everyone uses the 1" drop springs and the Shelby/Arning drop, you should be fine. The Shelby drop really only drops the front about 3/8"-1/2" measured at the wheel. Its main benefit is better suspension geometry.

That particular design causes people to question the strength of that control arm cross brace. Instead of the holes being in the middle of the brace, they're offset on little bumps above the main brace. I'm not a structural engineer so I can't argue whether that has any truth or not, but I can see how some people might worry. Though, I've never seen or heard of a design like that ever failing.
Click to expand...

Okay, thanks for the info. I do like that it has an easy camber adjustment so after doing the drop it should be easy to get an alignment I hope? Or Maybe I could save myself a few bucks and just do the original Shelby drop.

Do people get an alignment easily done after doing this?


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Boom said:
The reason the wedge is needed on a big drop is to prevent the control arm from contacting the spindle if I remember right. Causes binding and can break the ball joint if you bottom the suspension out suddenly.

Almost everyone uses the 1" drop springs and the Shelby/Arning drop, you should be fine. The Shelby drop really only drops the front about 3/8"-1/2" measured at the wheel. Its main benefit is better suspension geometry.

That particular design causes people to question the strength of that control arm cross brace. Instead of the holes being in the middle of the brace, they're offset on little bumps above the main brace. I'm not a structural engineer so I can't argue whether that has any truth or not, but I can see how some people might worry. Though, I've never seen or heard of a design like that ever failing.
Click to expand...

On all of the 3 answer .........+1 here.
 
67stang said:
So now I'm thinking not to install the control arm.


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Click to expand...

Also since I will be knee deep can I get generic ball joint dust covers at the local auto store or do I need to get these?
ce609a9f34c42eb775f06f5aca57ca96.png




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Boom said:
If you are getting new ball joints then they should come with covers.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry I mean I'm not replace the ball joints just the dust covers. And they seem pretty expensive at 10$ a pop.


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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-94210

Those arms you posted come with new ball joints. Are you using different control arms?

Just my opinion, but I would NOT use those control arms. After looking at the installation instructions I see that their method of camber adjustment is slotted holes where the ball joint mounts. That seems like it is doomed to fail eventually causing your ball joint will slide in and out constantly changing your camber while driving.

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sps-94210.pdf

Maybe someone else can chime in and see. Maybe I'm over reacting, but there are lots of control arms out there and this is the only one I've seen with that "feature"
 
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I don't normally knock parts I have no experience with but I think I will make an exception for these. Not a fan of the "camber" setting adjustment either. Concept of making it separate so not to affect caster is nice but the method seems cheesy. Really don't like the "shaft" set-up at all. Everything is riding on the shear strength of a bolt threaded into an aluminum block no less. There are a number of companies who make arms like this if you do a search. They must not have a track record of failure but I don't like the design. SPC makes a very trick alignment tool though!
 
Horseplay said:
I don't normally knock parts I have no experience with but I think I will make an exception for these. Not a fan of the "camber" setting adjustment either. Concept of making it separate so not to affect caster is nice but the method seems cheesy. Really don't like the "shaft" set-up at all. Everything is riding on the shear strength of a bolt threaded into an aluminum block no less. There are a number of companies who make arms like this if you do a search. They must not have a track record of failure but I don't like the design. SPC makes a very trick alignment tool though!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. More and more I think I will keep the orgiinal parts and do the Shelby drop and 1 inch lowering spring. That's seems to be what must people are doing without dropping 3k.



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I'm no stranger to spending money...ask anyone. The one area I did show some restraint was front suspension. Unless you are planning to do some very serious track stuff stock pieces with a few upgrades are more than you will ever need to have a terrific performing car on the street. Spend the money on roller spring perches and adjustable strut rods first. If you want to spend more rollerize the stock arms. Talk to John at Opentracker he will steer you straight. Most of us bought our pieces from him. Won't find a better man to deal with.
FWIW here is what I did. John's prepped STOCK uppers. His roller lower arms and spring perches. Shawn's (Street or Track) adjustable struts. John's variable kit for lower arm (65/66 isn't set up like yours stock). 1" lowering coil springs (can't remember from where. I think NPD). Shelby (actually Arning) drop. Stance is awesome. Alignment worked out perfect.
 
Horseplay said:
I'm no stranger to spending money...ask anyone. The one area I did show some restraint was front suspension. Unless you are planning to do some very serious track stuff stock pieces with a few upgrades are more than you will ever need to have a terrific performing car on the street. Spend the money on roller spring perches and adjustable strut rods first. If you want to spend more rollerize the stock arms. Talk to John at Opentracker he will steer you straight. Most of us bought our pieces from him. Won't find a better man to deal with.
FWIW here is what I did. John's prepped STOCK uppers. His roller lower arms and spring perches. Shawn's (Street or Track) adjustable struts. John's variable kit for lower arm (65/66 isn't set up like yours stock). 1" lowering coil springs (can't remember from where. I think NPD). Shelby (actually Arning) drop. Stance is awesome. Alignment worked out perfect.
Click to expand...

I guess I'm going the cheap way/ I can send them back though. But I ordered Scott drake struts all the way around and 1 inch lowering springs . They seem to have decent reviews. Should I return them?


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