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Mower - self propelled push suggestions

Jonk67

Well-Known Member
Ok, I think I've squeezed all the life I can out of my old push mower. The safety cable broke, which I like since I can leave it run to move stuff/pick up dog toys while cutting w/o restarting but it's also the throttle cable so I have it wired with a coathanger piece to keep it running/shut it off. Well I'm getting a bit older and tired of pushing it up the slope in the front yard plus the daughters old enough to start cutting but too small/light to push it up the slope. Time to move to a self propelled. Oh and the motor lags/stops in thick grass so time for more TQ! I think it's a 5.75.

Been looking at Lowes at the Troy Bilt and Husqvarna mowers. Some have B&S engines, some Kohler - don't think I've ever had a Kohler, current is a Honda and ran well. It seems the Kohler comes on the lower models so that make me lean towards the B&S. I'm looking in the <$300 - $350 range. The Husky's are AWD but in my price range have the smaller ~150cc engine vs. the 190cc in the $350+. I think they have a last years AWD Husky for $299 right now but it's got the Kohler.

What's your experience/ suggestions? Will the AWD be a trans issue waiting to happen or trustable? If I go nonAWD it will be rear drive and probably large wheel rear.

Similar to what I'm looking at:
Husqvarna 149cc 22-in Self-Propelled All-Wheel Drive 2 in 1 Push Lawn Mower with KOHLER Engine
085388233844.jpg


Troy-Bilt 190cc 21-in Self-Propelled Rear Wheel Drive 3 in 1 Gas Push Lawn Mower with Briggs & Stratton Engine
043033566280_03255339.jpg


Checked HD and see that they have a Toro rear drive 190cc B&S marked down to my price range but it's the small wheel, I'll check the store to see if they have big rear wheel.

12ef2a51-8305-4899-a5be-0fc25a46a2ba_400.jpg

Jon
 
Buy a Honda! Even a preowned one is better than anything out there.

Mel

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
 
I've had a HR215SXA (Honda) for about 25 years now, mowing about 1/3 acre of tall fescue year round, and the only real point of wear has been repetitive failures of the driveshaft shear pin (where the engine driveshaft to the transmission connects), mainly due to IMO bad angularity when set to cut high (3.5) like I do in tall fescue. I lowered the deck an inch and no issues.

Anyway, if I was to replace it (not going to, as it still works fine and engine easily goes 1-2 seasons without maintenance), I'd get this model:

http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/ ... VH7H20.pdf

Considering the passage of time and the fact that I paid 350 for mine 25 years ago, 600 isn't bad.

Oh, depending on grass, and mine is pretty tough, blade maintenance really extends mower life and operational ease. I do a lot of mulching mowing so usually have two blades going and don't skimp on the quality of the blade; one's on the machine and the other is cleaned and sharpened in the shop and I swap them out around once a month. Probably not necessary for the average suburban home but it works well on large amounts of tall and thick grass, especially when other stuff gets into it, like parts off of trees, shrubs, dead animals, etc, etc. Life in the country!
 
Thanks for all the input, looks like the Honda is in the lead and I've had one I was pleased with (more than the Sears ones for sure). The 15yo will be the 'gardener' :pbj

Looked at HD last night and found they have a $400 Honda with dual blades, 160cc that looks well made,

e07ee33d-56fc-4d0f-83f0-5eb10016da42_400.jpg


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Honda-21-in- ... /203709643

similar to the one posted by camachinist but closer to my price range. I think I may have a winner, just have to spend a little more but if it lasts years longer well worth it.
Jon
 
&quot;guruatbol&quot; said:
Buy a Honda! Even a preowned one is better than anything out there.

Mel

that's a fact.

The only complaint I have with my new Honda self propelled is that they are not available anymore, afaik, with an aluminum deck. And don't waste any money on the electric start version. The pull starts models start ridiculously easy.

It's a shame Ford doesn't make one, but since they don't, get the Honda.

Z.
 
years ago I bought a Toro SelfProp...lasted 7 years.

Then I bought a Honda Selfprop....been going now for 28 years.
 
&quot;Jonk67&quot; said:
Thanks for all the input, looks like the Honda is in the lead and I've had one I was pleased with (more than the Sears ones for sure). The 15yo will be the 'gardener' :pbj

Looked at HD last night and found they have a $400 Honda with dual blades, 160cc that looks well made,

e07ee33d-56fc-4d0f-83f0-5eb10016da42_400.jpg


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Honda-21-in- ... /203709643

similar to the one posted by camachinist but closer to my price range. I think I may have a winner, just have to spend a little more but if it lasts years longer well worth it.
Jon

I just picked up the model above this one (has the blade brake). I filled the crankcase with the supplied oil, pulled on the starter cord 5 or 6 times to circulate the oil, filled it with gas then started it up... being after 9 pm, I only ran it at medium speed for a minute or so and then dropped the rpms to low speed. I'm hearing a very disappointing knock at low speed and was curious if your does the same at low idle. Some things I've read suggest it is normal, but I don't think so.
 
I'll have to listen when she cuts this wknd. I didn't notice a knock. Its easy to start at 5'1" and probably 80lbs she gives it a weak pull and it chugs slowly then picks up speed to a full run.
 
&quot;stangg&quot; said:
"…….I'm hearing a very disappointing knock at low speed and was curious if your does the same at low idle. Some things I've read suggest it is normal, but I don't think so.

iI have the same mower, and the same knock at idle. I was working at a Honda dealership selling these mowers and Honda motorcycles in the late 1970's. And they knocked at idle 40 years ago too. It is completely normal.

You are supposed to leave the throttle control on FAST whenever the mower is running with the blades engaged, or when the self propelled lever is engaged. In other words, all the time the mower is doing any work. If you don't, you are hammering the crankshaft.

Z.
 
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