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motors almost done

T

Tony R

Member
I went to my engine builder today and gave him the go ahead to order and build my aluminum heads, order the retro roller lifters, HV oil pump, push rods, timing chain, and timing cover. I need to decide on my steering setup so i can order my high capacity oil pan. I am thinking that I will bite the bullet and put a rack and pinion setup in.
I went to Philadelphia(which sucked by the way)this last weekend and when I got home my cowl hood scoop was here so I will hopefully be able to make my cowl hood soon. I took the hood in last weekend to have it sand blasted and it was in way worse shape that I thought. It was covered in bondo. For a car that was "never in an accident" it is in pretty bad shape. I think the scoop will cover over a majority of the dents in the hood.
 
You should be fine with a standard front sump pan unless you are going with a MII setup. If you are patient and aren't in a rush to put the motor in I may be getting a new pan that does not go down quite as far. With my dropped motor mounts and eBay "Low profile" pan that is not so low profile the pan is a little close for comfort. Probably would work just fine but you know how I am. Can't leave good enough alone. Anyways, if I get a new pan that is about 1/2" -3/4" shorter I'll give you this one. Even has a drain bung welded on for your turbos. Let me know.

What kind of heads is he going to put together for you?
 
It is the original 289 with a .60 over bore. Since I am going with a twin turbo set up I am going with the recommendations of the engine builder. He is a performance shop an has worked on numerous turbo set ups. I gave him a 500Hp goal to work towards and he is convinced that I will have no problem exceeding my goals. I went with probe dished pistons with total seal rings and I beam rods. he had a custom cam ground for my application. I chose to go with the retro roller hydraulic lifters. I was talking to him about using AFR heads but he recommended using pro lightning aluminum heads and he will build them with better components. As for intake I don't know yet. It all depends on the fuel injection set up that I go with.
Thanks for the offer Darreld. I am looking at a high capacity oil pan that is baffled and it will come with dual bungs for around 250.
 
Post the pictures for the turbo plumbing when you get the chance. I'm very interested to see how they are routed.
 
I'm interested to see how they will be routed as well. :lol This will be my first attempt at anything like this. I have been anxiously waiting for my motor so I can start figuring out how to plumb it.
 
"Tony R" said:
HV oil pump ...
Click to expand...

:barf

Your idea or the engine builders? The guy that's built all my engines going back to the '80's won't use them. He builds the engine with very tight bearing clearances and claims that HV oil pumps just don't work well in well built engines.

I'm also curious about why the .060 over bore. Is it already .040 now? Is this THE original engine, and so you are trying to stay with it? Just seems to me, in such a modified car, spending another $250 for a core that can be .030 or .040 over is good insurance.

Sounds like a very cool project, though. Can't wait to see more of it.
 
Usually, engine builders will try to sell you their "special heads" because they get a bigger profit. At the beginning of my build, they wanted bare Patriot Performance "made in Chinese" heads with their components. I had to fight to get the AFR185s. So, I recommend going thoroughly through the parts list and weeding out the bad crap.
 
"Tony R" said:
I was talking to him about using AFR heads but he recommended using pro lightning aluminum heads and he will build them with better components.
Click to expand...

Pro lightning? Never heard of them. Do you have a link or more information?
 
The reasoning for the HV oil pump is because of the twin turbos. He talked with me about a few heads and says they are a good head. They are not as good as the AFRs but with forced induction I wouldn't notice much of a difference. I am also saving a few hundred dollars not buying a name brand like AFR. He is ordering bare heads and putting in the better components when he assembles it. I asked him about the .60 over bore when I first took the block in and he is not at all concerned about the block grenading. He said he could change it to a 302 but I wanted to keep the 289.
 
It's true, you probably won't notice a poor set of heads with a turbo, but those ching-chong heads have such a thin deck surface that it will be hell to keep headgaskets in it, even with studs.

In some situations (International DT466 comes to mind) you have no choice but to deal with the fact that the heads have a too-thin deck surface. In this case, they make a "deck plate" to compensate, but it seems nuts to me to fight issues like this on a SBF when you could just buy other heads and fuggedaboutdit.
 
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