• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Motor Oil ?

dm289

dm289

Member
When it comes to providing the required protection for older motors is there a difference and/or any advantages between buying high zinc motot oil like Brad Penn or the various other brands (Comp Cams, Edelbrock etc) versus buying modern oil and adding a can of the additives sold by most of the cam companies???
 
Valvoline racing oil, Redline race oil have plenty of zinc and phosphorus in them. I've run Redline 30wt race oil for years. The damage I've done had nothing to do with the oil!
 
Take a look at Amsoil. I've been using Amsoil products since 1988, a little more pricey than other oils but it's a very good and proven product.
 
I recall reading somewhere that Valvoline VR-1 does not test as high as they advertise for zinc. Brad Penn is not all that impressive either. The advantage is mainly extending the life of a flat tappet camshaft.

Redline on the other hand, tests higher than their claim of 2400 ppm. Price is comparable to mobil1. Save yourself a bunch of research and buy it.

http://www.smileysracing.com/shopping/p ... 811&c=1342
 
"RyanG85" said:
I've been running Valvoline VR1 Racing oil.
Click to expand...

+1
---
IIRC, cmayna did a lot of research 1-2 years ago, including sending in samples to a lab for testing.
 
I've been using Valvoline VR-1 10W-30 ever since I ground up my first cam on Castrol. The only reason I haven't switched to synthetic is because my engine burns a fair amount of oil, but with the car sitting so much lately, I may switch to Mobil 15W-50 or the like after I burn through my VR-1 stockpile.
 
A vendor I was talking to a while back told me that Brad Penn is the exact same formula that Kendall was back in the day. I don't know if that is true or not, but take it for what it's worth. If true, the advantage I see is that Kendall was obviously formulated for our type of engines. The potential disadvantage would be that oils have progressed a lot in other ways since then.
I've always used Redline for any vehicle I care about.
 
If you want to get lot of varied opinions from people much more technical than me go to a forum called Bob the oil guy. Thousands of posts and articles about oil. I have switched to 0W30 Amsoil. New thinking is 10 psi per 1000 rpms and whatever weight it takes to get that. I really learned a lot about oil from the site. like anything else you have to filter through what yo are reading and do what you feel is the best for you. Just my 2 cents.
 
"1965Mustang" said:
If you want to get lot of varied opinions from people much more technical than me go to a forum called Bob the oil guy. Thousands of posts and articles about oil. I have switched to 0W30 Amsoil. New thinking is 10 psi per 1000 rpms and whatever weight it takes to get that. I really learned a lot about oil from the site. like anything else you have to filter through what yo are reading and do what you feel is the best for you. Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

So you are saying at a idle speed of 1000RPM 10 psi is a good number? I'd simply figure how many PSI the connecting rod is mashing the bearing down into the crank during the power stoke and assume 10PSI ain't gonna prevent wear.
 
Like I said. There are a lot of oil gurus on that site that talks way over my head-oil research types. I did read the12 chapters on the theories on oil. It was very interesting. Nothing like I had ever heard. I am not the person to talk to here. I do not spend my days and weeks testing and researching oil formulas. Check out the site. Very informative. Like everything else there are many different theories. I did learn if you have a roller motor there is little benefit for using all the additives and zinc. If you want to read my novice questions on there and some of the answers, just pull me up. I am not knowledgeable enough to argue my point. Just my thoughts from reading what seemed to be the general consensus.
 
"dm289" said:
When it comes to providing the required protection for older motors is there a difference and/or any advantages between buying high zinc motot oil like Brad Penn or the various other brands (Comp Cams, Edelbrock etc) versus buying modern oil and adding a can of the additives sold by most of the cam companies???
Click to expand...

I've always prefered to use an oil that already has the additives in the oil to begin with instead of using a bottle of additive. This way I know what is in the oil and not what I think I know is in the oil. This is just personal preference. From what I've read, with a stock flat tappet camshaft ZDDP levels do not need to be very high to protect the cam. The need for ZDDP is more important when camshaft get larger and valve spring pressures increase. Running a good oil with a large solid flat tappet camshaft would be very important because of the high spring pressures for instance. Since there are a large number of companies out there making oils with the proper levels of ZDDP I don't see the need to buy standard oil and then buy an additive. I've used Valvoline VR-1, Brad Penn and Mobil 1 15w-50 with good success. You aren't going to go wrong with AMSoil or Redline either. These are very good oils, just more expensive. Gibbs, Schaffers, Royal Purple and others work too. Lots of choices out there today.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top