Mini Starter wiring

[kb3]

I am installing a 93 5.0 in my son's fastback. The books call for a "min starter". This appears to have a starter solenoid mounted on the starter. Is there any reason to still have the fender mounted solenoid? Several diagrams show bypassing the fender unit for the hot wire and only using it as a trigger wire. I don't see why you couldn't use the wire from the ignition switch directly to the starter, unless the current pull was too much. any ideas?

also...I am installing an entirely new American Autowire wiring harness, so everything is new.

Thanks!

 

[cmayna]

Here's the diagram I used when I installed my mini starter.

 

[kb3]

That is how I have seen several set ups done. The big question is can you skip the solenoid, and connect the wire directly from the ignition switch to the starter mounted solenoid? It would save a couple holes on the fender well. I have also seen a setup where they used the original fender solenoid and wired the trigger wire on the starter directly to the 12V switched input on the starter, effectively bypassing that solenoid.

 

[cmayna]

I'm not 100% certain but I believe you can skip the standard solenoid. You need to look further into this..

 

[miketyler]

I would think so but having a solenoid controlling a solenoid might better protect your primary switch wiring. I too need to convert, bought one of the $50 mini starters off of eBay

 

[kb3]

I will need to look into the gauge of the wire coming from the ignition switch as well as the fuse rating. It is only a trigger, so I think it will work just fine. The only downside I see about removing the fender mounted unit, you lose a place for a always hot, high amp, 12V tap for accessories. I believe the one wire alt, ac unit, etc tap into that lug on the solenoid. Decisions...decisions....form over function? or vice-versa....

 

[AtlantaSteve]

lots of people install some sort of a power junction block near the battery when replacing the solenoid. For example: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/prod ... Connectors

Often it's mounted out of view below the battery, but if you so choose, you could mount it right where the solenoid is.

As mentioned above, instead of having a few inches of always hot heavy gague wire, you'll now have several feet once you eliminate the solenoid. some people consider that a problem, some don't.

 

[kb3]

lots of people install some sort of a power junction block near the battery when replacing the solenoid. For example: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/prod ... Connectors

Often it's mounted out of view below the battery, but if you so choose, you could mount it right where the solenoid is.

As mentioned above, instead of having a few inches of always hot heavy gague wire, you'll now have several feet once you eliminate the solenoid. some people consider that a problem, some don't.

Either way you go, with the new mini starter you will always have an "always hot" lead going from the fender well down to the starter. Maybe a large, inline fuse would be in order. I like the idea of the junction block hidden beneath the battery.

Thanks

 

[AtlantaSteve]

Either way you go, with the new mini starter you will always have an "always hot" lead going from the fender well down to the starter.

Yep, you're absolutely right. I wasn't paying attention to the writing diagram before opening my mouth. A lot of people move their batteries to the trunk, and put a solenoid with them to reduce the length of the hot wire...but you were talking about a totally different situation. My bad.

 

[Opentracker]

I know a few guys that use the starter cable in the stock way, they just jump from the large post to the small with a smaller wire ( so the sol. and starter get power at crank). The large wire is cold until you crank on it. I know they say not too but it works. That little sol. has post in the back that jump power from the large post to the starter windings. It moves the bendix drive before the starter get's power ( starter doesn't get power until the sol. is in and makes contact). I too wonder why that large post needs power all the time. They won't in my cars.

 

[68EFIvert]

That is a great idea. I get to install my newly refreshed engine this weekend (lifter failure) but I had a "while I am at it" moment and purchased a mini starter. The starter was supposed to come with a wiring kit but did not. I am going to make a jumper and go from there. :thu

 

[kb3]

I know a few guys that use the starter cable in the stock way, they just jump from the large post to the small with a smaller wire ( so the sol. and starter get power at crank). The large wire is cold until you crank on it. I know they say not too but it works. That little sol. has post in the back that jump power from the large post to the starter windings. It moves the bendix drive before the starter get's power ( starter doesn't get power until the sol. is in and makes contact). I too wonder why that large post needs power all the time. They won't in my cars.

I have seen several examples of this exact thing. The small wire on the starter mounted post is shortened and connected to the large post. In essence, eliminating the starter mounted solenoid. I think I understand that there may be a micro second of difference in the way the starter spins vs bendix, but if you know people that make this work I think it would be the way to go. Then the long wire from the fender solenoid would be dead except during starting, eliminating the chance of a short or fire from that hot lead touching something else....headers, etc.

 

[68EFIvert]

I wired my new started using the jumper method and it works but the starter stays engaged after I stop cranking for about 1/3 to 1/5 seconds. I spoke to my engine guy about this methon and he said he uses it without problems but he knows one guy that had the same problem I have. I guess I will have to wire it as described earlier.