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65 FB Seamless rear valance

6

65-408

Member
Decided to go seamless on the rear valance, came out great and I think it was less work than trying to make it fit correctly as a bolt on...

Valance ready to go on, after trimming and punching plug weld holes in top flange:
330_09_09_10_9_12_10.JPG

Weld both quarter seams:
330_09_09_10_9_12_54.JPG

Plug weld across the top:
330_09_09_10_9_13_31.JPG

A little filler and it will be perfect…
330_09_09_10_9_14_18.JPG
 
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HI, I really like that look! I have yet to install my rear valance permanently, and I have repainting to do, so~ the weld in your photos~ is that a tig weld or mig? My new valance has a crack from hell! and I can't get those little bolts to stay in its little perch to save my life so I think welding the valance would be a neat thing! lol I may choose this path, it'd be another challege! (when the weather cools off anyway!). The fiberglass bumper is bolted but easily removed and weighs nothing! At least it would be easy to work on once jacked way high! I'm terribly dissappointed in my "new" valance! It's one of those things, didn't notice the imperfections until the day of bolting it on for fitment! Looks like where the stamped out the exhaust, it bent the metal above each exhaust, more body work! just crappy!
I guess the question may be~ The crack that's shown here, the valance is not totally pushed towards the body, but there's still quite a remaining crack even when pushed together, would I just take my time and weld it/filling the crack? and will there be a great chance of warping my valance from the heat?
thanks,
dne'

IMG_9067.jpg
 
Others have welded a rod or such to fill in some of the gap if you can't massage it any closer.
 
an alternative is to just weld material to the end as mentioned and make it look original. this valance took about half a day to fit and included relocating holes, brackets, trimming, welding and grinding. (and i'm not a bodyman)

on this one i added material by tack welding. most other cases i've done, i found it easier, faster and cleaner to use 1/8" welding rod.

IMG_4514.jpg


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IMG_5831.jpg
 
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"Dne'" said:
I guess the question may be~ The crack that's shown here, the valance is not totally pushed towards the body, but there's still quite a remaining crack even when pushed together, would I just take my time and weld it/filling the crack? and will there be a great chance of warping my valance from the heat?
thanks,
dne'
Click to expand...

Mine was done with a mig. After trimming and tweeking, it fit great at the bottom on both sides and was about 3/6" short at the top on both sides. the shape was not perfect, but I was able to push it in and tack it. I filled the 3/16" gap with weld... my guess is that you should straighten yours out a bit before welding it on... It shouldn't warp if you control the heat and move around as you weld
 
Thanks for the photos Buckeye and 65-408! I guess if I'm going to go to the trouble of filling the gap, I may as well weld it up like you 65-408! One thing good about this next task, I can jack the rear of the stang high and should be easy to work on! :pbj It'll be a couple weeks before I get started, but I'm so glad your post came up! Maybe others will chime in with their ideas!!
thanks,
dne'

ps: didn't mean to take away from your post, I've been wondering what I was going to do for the longest time!!
 
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