T5 tranny install advice

[Dne']

I bought this T5 a few months ago with intentions to install it. Now I would really like to install it~ I just feel my stang should have a standard transmission. The only place I know to look for parts is on Ebay, but if anyone here should have any extra parts, I may be interested.
Here's what I do have:
Transmission: Not sure about the bell housing yet.
Front yoke to fit this trans.
Plate that goes inbetween block and trans.
The fork (throwout bearing) is broken

Need:
throwout fork     (not sure where to buy this)
crossmember      (saw one on Ebay for 109.00)
speedocable       (clueless)
Flywheel(28ounce?) (about 100.oo on ebay)
clutch assembly/throwout bearing (O'reilly's?)
clutch cable (Mustang steves site?)
Clutch/brake pedal assembly  (I think my Mustang shop has one)
(what else)

[Dne']

I forgot to include my email address;
Anocsunamoon@aol.com
dne'

[Fast68back]

The fork (throwout bearing) is broken- Which is boken?, Do you want a late model or early model clutch (diaphram or three finger) they use two different types of forks

Need:
throwout fork     (not sure where to buy this) If you  use a late model Bell, I have a clutch fork, a new clutch kit will have a new throwout bearing
crossmember      (saw one on Ebay for 109.00) Does it have the bracket for the e-brake?
speedocable       (clueless) Same as existing, just change the gear
Flywheel(28ounce?) (about 100.oo on ebay) I'd check with your engine builder as to which you need
clutch assembly/throwout bearing (O'reilly's?) You have to decide on which type you want to use
clutch cable (Mustang steves site?) Much better than Ron morris, but if you decide to go that way, I'll make you a deal on the one in my garage...Another nice setup is the opentracker roller z-bar setup with spherical rod ends
Clutch/brake pedal assembly  (I think my Mustang shop has one) Check with Mustang Steve on this as well, IIRC, he sells the entire brake clutch assembly with the roller bearings, a nice, fairly cheap upgrade
(what else)

I'll e-mail you a PDF file for the T-5 swap that will help with all this. Its 29 pages. If anyone else wants a copy shoot me a PM with your e-mail address

[Fast68back]

Transmission: Not sure about the bell housing yet.
 

Looks like you have a bell, I'd use the late model, otherwise, you need the $$$ spacer plate

[Sluggo]

Russell has a T5 crossmember listed on craigslist for fitty bux.

[Dne']

I don't know why I get all excited about buying stuff when I have so much to do at this moment! I'm going to the garage, I'll think about all this stuff later. Just my luck this transmission would be no good! lol Maybe I should take the path of least resistance and just install this c4(doah :doh!), just put that money into a nice racknpinion instead.
I'll be back later~ much to do today!
dne'

[daveSanborn]

Dne,

The C4 would be a much easier/simpler install..... but.... having the manual transmission with the 5th gear overdrive IMO makes these cars much funner to drive.  Having the OD at higway speeds is worth any headaches associated the swap.

[shbrandt]

I agree with Dave. If your going to build a fun car, it's gotta have at least 300 HP, a stick shift with OD and a 3.55 trac-lock rear end. Anything else and you may as well drive a miata.

[Fast68back]

Dne,

The C4 would be a much easier/simpler install..... but.... having the manual transmission with the 5th gear overdrive IMO makes these cars much funner to drive.  Having the OD at higway speeds is worth any headaches associated the swap.

Is Funner a word? Why not a late model AOD upgrade?

[daveSanborn]

Is Funner a word?.....

If I type it, it's a word.  If it's not yet officially recognized as a word, it will be soon.

Why not a late model AOD upgrade?

Why not a Miata?

[Sluggo]

Dne,

The C4 would be a much easier/simpler install..... but.... having the manual transmission with the 5th gear overdrive IMO makes these cars much funner to drive.  Having the OD at higway speeds is worth any headaches associated the swap.

Is Funner a word? Why not a late model AOD upgrade?

Where's your Miata?

[shbrandt]

I was going to ask is "funner" was a real word, but you know how sensitive Dave is.

[Sluggo]

I was going to ask is "funner" was a real word, but you know how sensitive Dave is.

Psssst....It's not....Shhhh....

[Fast68back]

Anyone seen that Miata Stacey David built on that Hot Rod show on Speed. He put a SBF in it with a mustang II front suspension and the banche body kit. Looks pretty bad @$$.....

http://video.aol.com/video-detail/v8-mazda-miata-i-on-stacey-davids-gearz/138716011

[Dne']

Sorry, sometimes I get a little frustrated with things! It could be a little "funner" if things would go according to plan! :rof

I just got off the phone with Mustang mania, and Stuart(works there), told me to go "old school" vs. the cable assembly. You know, the mechnical linkage, etc. He says if I don't get the cable perfectly straight, that it will break.  Since I hopefully will continue with this challenge, it's not so much the money as the frustration in finding the correct stuff! When you have all the correct stuff sitting on your work bench, it becomes more funner!  :pep  I like Mustang mania, but I always find them to be a little more expensive than the competition.

Plus I'm a little down cause the disc brake(rear) stuff that I got was both left handed! :doh I wrote the place, but haven't heard back yet. Always a back up plan eh! I still have my drum stuff just in case!

[shbrandt]

I have the "old school" clutch linkage on my car. The pedal is pretty stiff with the big "helper" spring under the dash. I've been meaning to remove it since I am using a diaphram type clutch now.

[Dne']

Hey Brandt,
Is the clutch stiff with the diaphram clutch, or it's the spring that's making it stiff?  So, once the helper spring is removed it shouldn't be so stiff?  a little confused here(doesn't take much for me :doh)

[shbrandt]

The spring is what makes it so stiff and noisy. This is a good alternative that I have been told about. Made by Opentracker.

[Dne']

So, you have this system on your Mustang?  Now, do headers work ok with that system?  or is there a particular brand of headers that go with that system?
Sorry, I'm just full of questions!

[shbrandt]

This is an upgrade of the OEM clutch linkage. It has roller bearings and hemi fittings instead of the funky plastic bushings. I do not have this upgraded system in my car yet, but have spoken with a guy that does. He said it feels like a hydraulic clutch linkage, which is very smooth and requires very little effort. As far as headers, any headers that work with the OEM linkage should work with this upgrade. I have long tube Hooker super competition on my car, but they hang kinda low so you must watch it going over speed bumps, etc. I think "shorty headers" would probably be best. I would stay away from cable clutches as I have heard many people have problems with the cable and header clearance. I think that is a late model bell in your picture and is set up for a cable. You will need an early bell (they come is 5 & 6 bolt, you need to check your engine block and see how many mounting bolts are required), an adapter plate and T-5 tranny mount if you decide to use the OEM (mechanical) clutch linkage. Also, check your engine block and make sure you have the needed bung to mount the Z bar, otherwise you will need that as well.   

[Dne']

OK, that was an excellent explantion! :notworthy: I'm going to look into this system more~ Thank you again!
dne'

[Fast68back]

Hey Brandt,
Is the clutch stiff with the diaphram clutch, or it's the spring that's making it stiff?  So, once the helper spring is removed it shouldn't be so stiff?  a little confused here(doesn't take much for me :doh)

If you use the old style 3 finger clutch, you will need something similar to the "old school" setup as it pushed the clutch fork to engage. The modern diaphram style uses a pivot inside the bell housing so you need a setup that pulls the fork to engage (the helper spring is not needed), thus allowing a cable to be used. The advantage of the mustang steve over the ron morris is the cable, the MS uses a late model mustang cable that can be easily replaced with a trip to the auto parts house or Ford dealer, the RM setup is a custom cable that you can only get from RM and it cost more $$. The Opentracker setup is very nice and looks pretty sweet as well, it replaces the rods with spherical ends as was mentioned. Its also a fairly pricey setup. Last time I checked opentracker did not have a 67/68 setup, it was just 65/66, not sure there is a huge difference. You could also look into the Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing setup that I am using. http://www.mcleodind.com/application_guide_pgs/HYDTOB_SlipOn.html or try and build your own hydraulic setup http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm IIRC there was an issue with the company that supplied the slave cylinder, I think they went out of business or something.

Just checked the opentracker website and didnt see any clutch parts?? http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/

[huskinhano]

To can modify your present "cable" bellhousing to work with a push type fork by making a  spacer for the fulcrum. Most Mustang parts catalogs list them.  http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

While the cable is nice, I've read too many people having problems with them either hitting headers or R&P. I'm going to convert my 66 from auto to either a T5 or toploader. If I go with the T5, I'm definitely not going with a cable.

[Dne']

 ~??? gee guys! I'm totally discombobulated! The hydraulic throwout bearing amazes me!  I think I'm still kind of leaning towards Mustang Steves setup. All of 'em are pricey.  For me it's simplicity,, and ease of installation and of course parts available when they break.  I'm tired now, and want to watch tv.
I do appreciate all the input and advice  :notworthy:
dne'

[daveSanborn]

Dne,

You're doing the right thing by asking these types of questions.  Back in the old days (before internet forums) a lot of the modifications/upgrades on these cars were hit or miss trial and error.  Lots of wasted time and money.  It's convenient now to easily discuss with others what will and won't work, although sometimes there is an "information overload".  It's wise to absorb this information while continuing to ask MORE questions before you plunk any money down on parts that won't work together.

I'm using the MS clutch cable kit on my '66 with a T5.  I'm using FRPP shorty headers.  I have NO clearance issues whatsoever.  I'm certain that if were running a set of long tube headers, clearances for the cable would get much tighter.  My advice is this:

Long Tube headers = hydraulic clutch
Shorty headers = cable clutch

Certain types of Long Tube headers are "made to fit" the OEM mechanical clutch linkage.  I'm not sure which brand these are, but others should be able to chime in.  I'm not a big fan of long tube headers on a street car.  Usually, the headers hang too low and hang up on speedbumps, etc.  Shorty headers only give up a small percentage of performance over long tubes, but are more "street friendly".