Author Topic: Broke push rod in the 5.0 (Read 470 times)

pnandy · « **on:** January, 11, 2009, 10:58:33 PM »

took the 68 out for a quick drive a couple weeks back and car started backfiring towed car home thought the distrbuter came lose no luck opened the valve covers the po installed all the push rods incorrectly so i found two bent rods and one broken rod i replaced the lifters and rods stang runs alot better but i do hear a quiet ticking coming from the engine any thoughts? should i wait a few miles to see could any type of addative that i could put in it maybe help if so which one. any ideas would be helpful.

If doesn't get better looks like i'll have to remove the heads to get a good look
Also im looking upgrade to roller rockers and need to machine my heads to accomplish this about how much should the machining run and would it be better to just get new heads instead that are roller ready.

Thanks for the help in advance

daveSanborn · « **Reply #1 on:** January, 12, 2009, 08:16:03 AM »

If you had a couple bent rods and a broken one, it's probably not a bad idea to start thinking about a head swap. While you're at it, change out the cam also.

There are some good deals on these parts and labor is pretty straightforward.

As far as the "ticking" sound.... can it be further isolated? You can buy a set of clips that install onto the rockers which block the oil ports allowing you to run the engine for a few minutes with the valve covers off. By doing this, you can usually isolate the problem down to the exact cylinder/valve. It could be something as simple as a bad spring.

Does the car emit a puff of white smoke when it's first started? This would tell me that the valve guides are worn allowing oil to settle onto the top of piston. Worn valve guides could also cause your ticking noise.

Fast68back · « **Reply #2 on:** January, 12, 2009, 10:58:53 AM »

Do you have guide plates? Was the push rod rubbing on them, they may not have been the hardened push rods.

pnandy · « **Reply #3 on:** January, 12, 2009, 11:11:42 AM »

i do have the white smoke when it first starts how do i go about fixing that? Also what cam would u recomend? And should i get the heads machined or new heads if so whats a decent priced head to go with? thanks for all the help in advance

daveSanborn · « **Reply #4 on:** January, 12, 2009, 11:22:58 AM »

More often than not, the puff of white smoke upon start is a result of oil leaking past worn valves/valve guides and resting on the top of the piston. When the car initially starts, this little puddle of oil burns off and creates the short puff of white smoke.

The only remedy for this is to have a valve job done on the heads. With the high price of labor these days, a new set of heads usually isn't much more than it costs to have yours rebuilt. Without knowing all of the specifics of your motor and how you want the car to perform, I'd recommend a set of low mile GT-40 heads from a late model 5.0 Ford. Make sure they're not GT-40P heads thogh as "P" heads require different exhaust manifolds. Search Craiglist, eBay, etc. and something you're looking for should turn up quickly. For the camshaft, I'd call one of the cam manufacturers (Crane, Edelbrock, BlueRacer, SummitRacing, etc.,etc.) and discuss your desires with them. They'll know best what cam would suit your motor/driving style.

pnandy · « **Reply #5 on:** January, 12, 2009, 01:53:09 PM »

ok thanks for the help dave

I'll look around for some good gt 40 heads are those roller rocker ready?
anything to look for when getting the heads like common problems etc?

Is the cam something that i should really change (need to is it a good idea? why?) while doing this. I have all the info on my engine from when the po had it built its suppose to be rated at 320hp
I'll look around for the sheet that has the engine specs on it and post them up

Thanks for all the help guys im really looking forward to getting the engine fixed so i can add the a/c and get my paint and body done before summer or at least right after I finish up my Cancer treatments

Is this a set of heads i should be looking at?
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=mppf&sbrftog=1&mppfqy=mustang+5.0+heads&mppfqy=mustang+5.0+heads&mppfqy=302+trick+flow+heads&mppfqy=5.0+trick+flow+heads&mppfqy=mustang+trick+flow+heads&catref=C6&from=R10&dfsp=32&satitle=undefined&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&fmmk=&fmmd=&fylo=1986&fyhi=1993&mppfqy=mustang+heads&saprclo=&saprchi=&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=90603&sabfmts=1&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&fsop=32%26fsoo%3D2&coaction=compare&copagenum=1&coentrypage=search&fgtp=

pnandy · « **Reply #6 on:** January, 12, 2009, 02:20:08 PM »

heres a link to my current cam with specs
hope this can help you help me ~thu
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=364382&lvl=2&prt=5

daveSanborn · « **Reply #7 on:** January, 13, 2009, 08:36:25 AM »

The cam isn't a 100% necessity, but I'd be concerned that if the valves weren't adjusted properly.... leading to the bent/broke push rods.... did the cam lobes suffer and possibly get wiped out? I'd at least want to check the lobes for wear.

daveSanborn · « **Reply #8 on:** January, 13, 2009, 08:39:47 AM »

Yes, these heads would bolt right up and make good power. Yes, roller rockers could easily be installed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__Ford-Mustang-1987-93-5-0-L-HO-302-E7TE-Cylinder-Heads_W0QQitemZ270328899930QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQddiZ2811QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item270328899930&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

pnandy · « **Reply #9 on:** January, 15, 2009, 05:01:14 PM »

My friend who helps me has a friend that owns a machine shop, so ima gonna have the heads machined and then probably a new cam and make sure everthing matches up correctly so i wont have this problem hopefully i'll get a little more power of doing this to
I found a complete low mile 91 5.0 for cheap but since i can't hear it run i've decded not to with that. might buy it for future use is 800 for a complete semi clean 5.0 mustang engine good