Engine installed pics

[Sluggo]

Well, it's in finally.

Cranked it up and did the break in. Sounds pretty sweet with the Voodoo cam in it.

I am struggling with a cooling issue right now. Thought I may have put one of the head gaskets on wrong but the tabs face forward and the heads went back on the sides they cam from.

I had installed an electric fan but I don't think it was pulling enough air. Then I pulled the t-stat out and put the flex fan back on with out much change.

I'm going to try a 195 t-stat and see if it will keep the coolant in the radiator a little longer.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[guruatbol]

Looks good!

Mel

[cmayna]

Pay for my gas and I'll toss a couple clean pairs of shorts in the back seat of Shag and we'll come out and drink all your beer while we sit and figure out the cooling issue.  Did you burp the system?  Are you running a 180 stat in there right now? 

[Sluggo]

Pay for my gas and I'll toss a couple clean pairs of shorts in the back seat of Shag and we'll come out and drink all your beer while we sit and figure out the cooling issue.  Did you burp the system?  Are you running a 180 stat in there right now? 

Burped...affirmative. I was running a 180. I pulled it out. I have a 195 to try next.

[AzPete]

What is "hot" and how is it measured?

I found that a flex fan on mine kept it at the level of hot just before being uncomfortable, shroud or not. Two long lights and it was really warm. Cooled down when moving again above 35 mph. Installed the new elec. puller (SPAL 2360 cfm) with no other changes and the temp is right at 180 with no A/C running.

I never dealt with elec. fans until this car. Get the most cfm you can.

[jonward786]

Looks sweet.  I give props to anyone who takes the time to route their wires in an organized manner, its one of my pet peeves in the engine bay. 

[Sluggo]

What is "hot" and how is it measured?

I found that a flex fan on mine kept it at the level of hot just before being uncomfortable, shroud or not. Two long lights and it was really warm. Cooled down when moving again above 35 mph. Installed the new elec. puller (SPAL 2360 cfm) with no other changes and the temp is right at 180 with no A/C running.

I never dealt with elec. fans until this car. Get the most cfm you can.

Hot is above 210 in my book. It was 230 and climbing. Measured with thermometer in cap. Fan was a 17 inch 2100cfm that fit very neatly inside the original shroud. I had the a/c lead hooked to the battery to run it full speed continuously.

[95GT]

Very nice looking. You do great looking work. I do wonder how old is the radiator? Might need a good cleaning.

[AzPete]

It may have been that the combination of the elec. fan and the original shroud caused air flow problems. I run no shroud with the elec. fan. Mine is  16" on the stock size '66 Griffin. A couple hundred CFM can make a difference.

I agree on the temps....210 and up is not comfortable.

Timing can change the temps some too.....

Use a infared and check temps across the face of the rad....should be close to the same all across. I had one that had hot and cold spots. Cleaned and all was good.

[Sluggo]

Very nice looking. You do great looking work. I do wonder how old is the radiator? Might need a good cleaning.

Maybe a year, 18 months max. less than 500 miles on it.

[Sluggo]

It may have been that the combination of the elec. fan and the original shroud caused air flow problems. I run no shroud with the elec. fan. Mine is  16" on the stock size '66 Griffin. A couple hundred CFM can make a difference.

I agree on the temps....210 and up is not comfortable.

Timing can change the temps some too.....

Use a infared and check temps across the face of the rad....should be close to the same all across. I had one that had hot and cold spots. Cleaned and all was good.

I would think the shroud would help direct the pull across the entire radiator surface.

[AzPete]

Just like with a normal fan, the shroud can cause turbulence not good for air flow. It can help pull air thru the corners or areas of the rad. not covered by the actual fan which helps. If the shroud is to deep behind the fan or keeps the fan from sitting real close to the rad., it can be a problem. Looking at several install applications, they all have the fan right on the rad. with no shroud extending more than about 1/2" past the blades. This is just the actual mounting frame work for the fan....not really a shroud. Don't judge the air flow on how it feels to you either. Kinda like a "butt dyno"....not real accurate.

[70_Fastback]

Looks good brother!  And I don't know what else to say about the cooling issue.  Same coolant solution as well?

[monkeystash]

Can you explain the way you installed the head gaskets better.  There usually is a "Front" stamped on the gasket, and usually one side of the gasket has larger coolant holes than the other.  Those holes usually go to the rear.  

Have you driven the car?  If so, does it cool off at speed?  Did you run this fan set-up previously, and did it work then?  

[tarafied1]

do you know the antifreeze mix? is it 50/50? are you sure? Antifreeze is not as good a coolant as water. I use 15% antifreeze and water wetter in mine and it reduced the temp about 20 degrees. Could the heat be higher from a fresh motor? still tight? what is the timing set at? sorry for the questions, just trying to trigger some thought.

[Sluggo]

Can you explain the way you installed the head gaskets better.[1]  There usually is a "Front" stamped on the gasket, and usually one side of the gasket has larger coolant holes than the other.  Those holes usually go to the rear.  

Have you driven the car?[2]  If so, does it cool off at speed?  Did you run this fan set-up previously, and did it work then?[3] 

1.	Installed so that the tabs are both visible on the front of the heads, one up one down. Double checked the back side of heads and neither has a tab visible
2.	no, It get hot very quickly, had the flex fan and a large fan used for cooling cars on the emissions dyno both going.
3.	The flex fan was on it previously, the gauge creeped up at idle but was fine at speed.

[Sluggo]

do you know the antifreeze mix? is it 50/50? are you sure?[1] Antifreeze is not as good a coolant as water. I use 15% antifreeze and water wetter in mine and it reduced the temp about 20 degrees. Could the heat be higher from a fresh motor? still tight?[2] what is the timing set at?[3] sorry for the questions, just trying to trigger some thought.

1.	Used 50/50 diluted coolant and topped it with water. I would say the final solution was 25-30% coolant.
2.	Yes, just barely got the cam broke in.
3.	Ran the timing retarded, made no difference.

The engine sits pretty low in the back as compared to the front. This is exaggerated a bit by dropping the crossmember a bit for the t5. I read a couple posts on other forums about windsors being difficult to burp some times. Some suggest jacking the rear end up to get the block higher than the radiator cap. I left the heater hose on the intake off and filled it until coolant came out which should have eliminated that issue.

[AzPete]

Back to the basics.....reset timing and mixture as both can cause warm running. Do you have water flow thru the radiator....verified with cap off and watching the coolant pass by? Did the coolant ever stop flowing to show the thermostat closed as it should?

I had trouble burping one in the past. Seems there was an air bubble that would not leave from under the temp sensor. Removed the sensor and with the system still sealed, the coolant was 1/2" from the sender. Filled that and no more problem.

I leave the cap off for burping thru two cycles of the thermostat so I can watch coolant movement too.

Any chance of a reverse flow water pump by mistake?

[Sluggo]

Back to the basics.....reset timing and mixture as both can cause warm running. Do you have water flow thru the radiator....verified with cap off and watching the coolant pass by?[1] Did the coolant ever stop flowing to show the thermostat closed as it should?

I had trouble burping one in the past. Seems there was an air bubble that would not leave from under the temp sensor. Removed the sensor and with the system still sealed, the coolant was 1/2" from the sender. Filled that and no more problem.

I leave the cap off for burping thru two cycles of the thermostat so I can watch coolant movement too.[2]

Any chance of a reverse flow water pump by mistake?[3]

1.	Yes. like a fire hose.
2.	Me too, once the t-stat opened it did not close until I removed it. Then it closed as it cooled.
3.	Nope. Reused the one that was on it as it was only a few months old

[67 evil eleanor]

I would dump the electric in favor of a HD clutch fan. Pulls many times more CFM's vs the electrics. My guess is your gonna need upwards of 4500 cfm's to keep it cool. The "heats up quickly" scares me a little though.

[scedd]

clean the fan, it looks a bit grubby

[blue65coupe]

Lookin' good.  I have nothing to add to the cooling issue.

[janschutz]

Be sure and check the thermostat in hot water before you install.  I have found many defective new ones this way!


BTW: that a purdy engine!

[silverblueBP]

The only thing that comes to mind other than what's already been mentioned is too tight tolerances in the bearings.

Just throwing that out there.

[cmayna]

OMG, I hope he would have checked the stat first.    I was going to suggest an aluminum radiator but looks like we're trying to keep the engine bay as stock looking as possible.