Bad ass BOSS - New Coilover System

[Shaun]

First off I have to say that I hate you Shaun :bird For years I could not decide between Global West and a factory suspension setup for my 1967 coupe. Well after the glowing reviews of the johnpro upgrade to his daughter's 1967 Mustang I decided on a Opentracker "roller" upgrade to the stock suspension. But noooo now you have to come out with something even better. Granted the only investment that I have made so far for the Opentracker is the Koni shocks.
But I do need to clarify something.  

The wider tire size is the biggest reason that I was considering the Global West suspension. So a 245/255 on a 65-66 Mustang. What about a 67 Mustang? And what is the rim size that you were using?
Also what size sway bar are you using? Can I assume that it is a factory bar?
More questions to follow, but I want to start with the basics first.

fd

So its not only my wife that I annoy?  LOL.

I'm sure I'll never make it to Mustang racing heaven by saying this but Koni's are way outdated and so over rated.  Its the legendary name that sells them nowadays, not the technology of the shock.  The vintage Mustang stuff hasn't changed for years.  Technology has come a long, long way since Shelby was racing.  The old school way to get these cars to handle and give a 'sporty' ride was Koni's and stiff springs.  We've built a system that doesn't ride like a dump truck, won't beat you up and won't make you exhausted from cruising around yet one that handles extremly well.  Sure, you can say I'm tooting my own horn but I can, I know its that good.  8-)

A 245/45/17 is fitting on a 8" wide rim on a 65-66 car with rolled fenders.  I'd like to try a few 9" wide rims but haven't gotten to it yet.  A 67 car would easily be around 245/255 up front.  Our system is all so wildly adjustable you can do all sorts of alignment tricks to fit large tires in there.  Right now I'm favoring (and building the arms) with the front bearing 3 turns further out than the rear one.  This builds caster into the arm without having to shorten the strut rod so much and pull the tire forward in the arch.  For maximum meat you can run both heims all the way in which is the shortest the arm can be, use the lower control arm eccentric to set camber and strut rod for caster.  Lots of options.

We are using a stock sway bar.  The cars we've fitted the system too so far have either used a 1" or 1-1/8".  A few of the cars needed the end link sleeve cut down 1/2-3/4" to lower the top of the sway bar and get it away from the base of our shock.  Other cars have required the square end of the swap bar to be ground round to clear the lower mount.  Some cars require no mods.  Depends on the sway bar manufacturer and what alignment settings you are running.  None of the mods are what I would call major.

Before:


After:

[stangg]

That is very cool...   I built my own tube chassis with QA1 Alumatic coil overs... not a performance shock at all.   My plan was to upgrade at some point with adjustable shocks, but now seeing this I was wondering if you will be selling shocks seperately.   Mine are 14.5 extended with 4" of shock travel,  .69 motion ratio and 450# springs.  Would your shocks work as a replacement?

[Shaun]

That is very cool...   I built my own tube chassis with QA1 Alumatic coil overs... not a performance shock at all.   My plan was to upgrade at some point with adjustable shocks, but now seeing this I was wondering if you will be selling shocks seperately.   Mine are 14.5 extended with 4" of shock travel,  .69 motion ratio and 450# springs.  Would your shocks work as a replacement?

Maybe.  Ours have more travel and longer extended length than the ones you are using.  Send me an email through our site and we can work out the details.

[Shaun]

Added a page to our site with some more blurb - http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

[Shaun]

Here is Jason last weekend while we were doing some more Race valving development:

http://www.youtube.com/user/StreetorTrack?feature=mhum#p/a/u/0/YNVIRPX4k6w

We hooked a throttle positioning sensor up to the DL1.  With this as well as lap times we could see how much throttle was used with each valving and compare that to lap times.  It was a useful way to verify which setup was quicker.  Averaged out for traffic and the odd non-consistent lap we could pick out which setup was fastest out of the sets we took.

There was one sector on track that one of the other valvings was quicker each time though.  This valving didn't produce the quickest lap overall but that one sector was always quicker.  We are going to hookup some linear potentiometers to the shocks next time out to see what the shock is doing in that sector so we can see where it is on the shock curve.  This should help us tune the fastest valving to be even quicker!

Oh, Jason set a personal best that day too!

Fun stuff.  Thought I would share!

[FordDude]

Nice! Real cool Telemetry that you are showing. By chance the red gauge at the bottom, would that be Lateral acceleration? If so impressive, hitting over 1g.

fd

[66gt350]

Shaun,

I noticed that the kit comes with upper and lower control arms, and the adjustable strut rod.  I've already got your control arms and TCP's adjustable strut rod.  Are you gonna offer a kit minus those pieces?

[Shaun]

Nice! Real cool Telemetry that you are showing. By chance the red gauge at the bottom, would that be Lateral acceleration? If so impressive, hitting over 1g.

fd

Yeah, we are easily past 1g now even on sticky street tires.

[Shaun]

Shaun,

I noticed that the kit comes with upper and lower control arms, and the adjustable strut rod.  I've already got your control arms and TCP's adjustable strut rod.  Are you gonna offer a kit minus those pieces?

Rob,

Any of the pieces can be purchased seperate.  Our lower is the same in both systems, upper is different and the bracket on the strut rod that attaches to the lower is different, the tube and forward bracket is the same though.