Author Topic: Nu-Relics power window install... not good (Read 984 times)

DougG69 · « **on:** September, 27, 2010, 05:49:52 PM »

This past weekend I finally got the wiring run through the doors and had a friend over to help with installing the door glass and the Nu-Relics power window kit.

Got the glass installed on the driver's side. It seemed to work OK but we did hear a clunk when rolling them down. Took a look inside & noticed the regulator would hit the motor. It would power it's way on down, but this isn't going to be an acceptable long-term situation.

For now I have just put the manual cranks back in.

Has anyone else installed these in a 69-70? If so, did you run into this issue & how did you solve it?

mustangstofear · « **Reply #1 on:** September, 28, 2010, 07:48:36 AM »

I would call NU-relics and ask them if they have ever had this problem. That is the brand that we brand we have switched to. Rich.

DougG69 · « **Reply #2 on:** October, 03, 2010, 06:35:00 PM »

Quote from: mustangstofear on September, 28, 2010, 07:48:36 AM

I would call NU-relics and ask them if they have ever had this problem.

That would probably have been the smart thing to do :)

What I ended up doing was swapping the motors to the opposite regulators, so each one pointed to the back, rather than the front.

Motor to the front, as delivered:

Motors swapped, now pointing to the rear:

This created an interference issue with the brace in the bottom middle of the door that the little rubber glass stop is on. Mostly fixed that by grinding one 'ear' off the top of the motor. That allowed the motor to slip under the brace, and I was able to get the front two bolts into the regulator.

Top ear/tab removed:

To get the 2 rear mounting bolts into the regulator, I had to slightly reshape the holes in the door. The alignment with the regulator was off by just a little bit. Doesn't seem to hurt anything.

Holes enlarged:

The only real caveat with things set up this way is the regulator arm WILL still hit the motor if you roll the window ALL the way down. I can get VERY close to the stop before it hits. I think I'm going to try the old trick of using a bit of heater hose clamped to the window guides to stop it just shy of bottoming out on the motor.

Of course, there are still all the typical alignment issues...

DougG69 · « **Reply #3 on:** October, 04, 2010, 10:15:23 PM »

Quick update:

Found another problem. When the windows are all the way up, the regulators interfere with the operation of the inside door handle. In other words, you can't open the door from inside the car.

I'll give the vendor a call tomorrow and see what they say about this one.

I'm getting really tired of installing/uninstalling these windows though.

SAC69 · « **Reply #4 on:** October, 05, 2010, 07:20:50 AM »

Are you using '69 glue-in glass or the '70 bolt-in? (I wouldn't mind power windows but don't want to incur the expense of a swap to '70 glass & their regulators.)

DougG69 · « **Reply #5 on:** October, 05, 2010, 07:35:26 AM »

Quote from: SAC69 on October, 05, 2010, 07:20:50 AM

Are you using '69 glue-in glass or the '70 bolt-in? (I wouldn't mind power windows but don't want to incur the expense of a swap to '70 glass & their regulators.)

70 bolt-in. I don't think I've seen a kit that doesn't say it requires 70 glass.

I don't know if the 69 setup is just too heavy on the motors with all the pot metal, or if they are afraid the glass will bottom out on the stop too hard and pop out of the brackets where they are glued. If it's the latter, I would think you could use the hose trick on the tubular guides so the glass itself never touches the stop in the middle of the door.

DougG69 · « **Reply #6 on:** October, 05, 2010, 12:50:25 PM »

Ok, I've had a chance to look into the binding issue on the inner door release a little more.

It looks like I'll need to pull the glass again & do some more cutting to gain clearance. I just spoke with the Nu-Relics tech, and he said it should not cause any problems as far as weakening the regulator too much structurally.

This pic shows the area that is interfering with the latch release inside the door when the windows are all the way up:

Hope this does the trick (crosses fingers).

AzPete · « **Reply #7 on:** October, 05, 2010, 12:54:37 PM »

Sounds like they sold you an item that is close enough but never fully installed by them......or your car is assembled backwards.

DougG69 · « **Reply #8 on:** October, 05, 2010, 01:32:19 PM »

Quote from: AzPete on October, 05, 2010, 12:54:37 PM

Sounds like they sold you an item that is close enough but never fully installed by them......or your car is assembled backwards.

lol - I think I can be referred to as an "early adopter" (aka guinea pig). I think it's a pretty good setup overall, just needs a little fine tuning.

After talking to their tech I feel like they are very receptive to feedback from their customers. I sent them a link to this thread so they could see the issues I've run into during the install. If any of this helps others with their installations or maybe even improves the product it will be worth the trouble.

gtscode · « **Reply #9 on:** October, 05, 2010, 04:18:28 PM »

Quote from: DougG69 on October, 05, 2010, 01:32:19 PM

lol - I think I can be referred to as an "early adopter" (aka guinea pig). I think it's a pretty good setup overall, just needs a little fine tuning.

After talking to their tech I feel like they are very receptive to feedback from their customers. I sent them a link to this thread so they could see the issues I've run into during the install. If any of this helps others with their installations or maybe even improves the product it will be worth the trouble.

Unless you got a great deal seems like way to much trouble to me!!!