Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....(engine's out)

[silverblueBP]

is there anything out there that is better to keep roller rockers on the studs than poly locks? Are diff brands of poly locks better than others?

I currently have Crane gold race rollers (1.6, 3/8" stud) with the locks that came with them. I don't see a reason to change rockers, but I would like to fix this problem where the locks have loosened and or come off. I'll probably replace all the studs, one chrome moly hardened pushrod and the solid lifters.....again. This was the second time I've had a lock get loose and the rocker come off and I'd like to solve this problem so a diff one can show up  

is there another setup all together that would replace what I currently have? Give me some (legitimate) ideas. Money's no object since Pete said he would pay for it all!

[AzPete]

Money's no object since Pete said he would pay for it all!

Damn glad he didn't say AzPete.....really feel sorry for that "Pete" guy.

[fordrule]

ever thought of using bolts that you can safety wire the locks to a gridle plate or something like that?

on nuts and adjustable links we safety wire in a tightening directions on our aircraft. just a thought and then you would have to worry about the flex and the lock coming loose
http://www.jegs.com/p/Comp-Cams/Comp-Cams-Stud-Girdle/753179/10002/-1

[Dynamic]

Damn glad he didn't say AzPete.....really feel sorry for that "Pete" guy.

huh my names Pete also... im out of here

[BobV]

If money's (truly) no object, I'd throw a Jesel or Sharp shaft rocker setup on there. Problem completely and permanently resolved for about $1000....  :$$$ I LOVE spending other people's money... :naug

A stud girdle might possibly be a good addition. I don't recall which heads you're using or the cam specs though...

At the very least, we need to look at what products you are currently using as well as the adjustment method. There IS a wrong way to tighten polylocks...

I would ONLY use ARP studs (Pro Series) and locks (Permalocks, IIRC) for your application. Period. It's quality stuff. Unfortunately, many of the cam makers are using imported stuff to save a few bucks. Not sure I'd trust "Crane", Comp, or Summit-branded stuff anymore - at least not at 7500 rpm. May be just fine for the 98% of their customer base that never sees over 6500. I seem to recall someone posting about problems with moving adjustments on another forum... and they threw away studs and locks that came with their aftermarket aluminum heads, went to ARP, and solved the issue. Seems the cheapo studs were too soft. ARP, Jesel, Sharp, Crower (& maybe some Isky) are the names I'D be looking for in your future.

On your locks, how are you tightening them? The proper way is to loosen the inner nut, adjust the outer nut where you want it, back it off 1/8 turn, snug the inner nut, then tighten BOTH inner & outer together 1/8 turn. Many people try to hold the outer and tighten the inner - that will loosen up, IME, especially with a solid cam and high rpm.

I know camachinist is a little tied up with life issues right now. When he's back, you should get in touch with him - maybe even send the broken stuff to him for inspection. I'm SURE he'll have some valuable input.

[silverblueBP]

"On your locks, how are you tightening them? The proper way is to loosen the inner nut, adjust the outer nut where you want it, back it off 1/8 turn, snug the inner nut, then tighten BOTH inner & outer together 1/8 turn. Many people try to hold the outer and tighten the inner - that will loosen up, IME, especially with a solid cam and high rpm."

That's how I tighten them.

I was thinking ARP too.

[Opentracker]

[silverblueBP]

Wouldn't that crowded under the valve covers?

[AzPete]

For that mod, I have heard you can use the taller covers plus the spacer made to lift the covers. :lol :lol :lol

[Fast68back]

 :nick :nick :nick :nick

[silverblueBP]

I finally have a free day tomorrow, gonna yank out the engine and see what's bad. Might just drop the 7.3 out of the F250 back in.

[Mach1ne]

What did you find?

Going to suck at the October 6 track day.

Hopefully you and Dan will be ready to go next year.

[silverblueBP]

I started to take it out, drained the water and took out the radiator. Disconnected all the lines and then said F it. Just didn't feel like crawling under it to take out the gazillion bell housing bolts. I'll maybe finish it up this week....maybe.

[buening]

You may try Corral.net classifieds for shaft rockers, if that is something you are considering.  For example  http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1224894&highlight=shaft

[silverblueBP]

I'm leaning towards these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CSP-G4400-38/

[silverblueBP]

Deb and I took the pup for a 4 mile walk this morning and when we got back I decided to go ahead and pull the engine out of the car.

So far it's as bad as I thought. It'll need a new cam, lifters, pushrod, rocker stud, stud girdles and locks. While it's out I'll add some studs for the valve covers and oil pan. Maybe rollerize the clutch equalizer bar.

I'm on the fence about a new clutch. It's been on there for 6 yrs, but still looks OK. The flywheel is starting to show some wear, but nothing bad. Just replaced the throwout bearing last spring. At least the rear main seal has not been leaking  

Empty once more....





Frick'n, rass'n, fabergaster.



Here's what came out of the Gano filter.



and what was stuck to the oil pan magnetic plug.





Who knows what more I'll find when I pull the pan and root around. It'll be a long winter. Maybe I'll even build a cool HD engine crossmember with a jack pad.

[Midlife]

You pulled the engine, leaving the bellhousing in place?  I didn't think that could be done!

[AzPete]

Sure....why not?

I like the arrow on the water pump......is that to tell you which side the steering wheel is on?

No small filings in the oil? Might split the filter open and look at it too.

[silverblueBP]

You pulled the engine, leaving the bellhousing in place?  I didn't think that could be done!

WTH??? do it all the time.

[silverblueBP]

Sure....why not?

I like the arrow on the water pump......is that to tell you which side the steering wheel is on?

No small filings in the oil? Might split the filter open and look at it too.

Drug a magnet around in the drained oil, nothing yet. Removing the pan, heads, main caps, filter, etc...will be tomorrow, maybe. Seeing as I do not have the extra cash to put it all back together, I'm in no hurry.

I might add a new oil pump to the list to be safe.

[Midlife]

WTH??? do it all the time.

Do tell how that is done.  I presume you have to move the engine forward so that it clears the front shaft of the tranny, then up and out.  I didn't think there was enough room to do so without hitting the radiator support.

The reverse must be difficult as well, as stabbing the tranny can be a pain!

[AzPete]

Even if you leave the bell housing on the engine and disconnect the trans....you have to clear the same shaft....with a bulkier item.

[silverblueBP]

There's plenty of room if you remove the fan. In fact, I've even left the fan attached and got it out. It's just easier if you remove it. It is close if you leave the export brace on, but still doable.

I've never had any trouble R&R the engine by myself. I don't have the luxury of having people close by...with beer.

[silverblueBP]

As far as putting the engine back in, it usually takes me the most time to line the motor mounts back up. It always seems that one bolt hole is a bear. Bolting it back up to the housing is usually pretty easy. Get it close and then rotate the crank till the clutch slips in.

[hivewax]

What's all that crap trapped by the GANO filter? Looks like rust and gasket material, and a lot of it, or is it magnified?

And, where did you find that braided ground strap?