Finally, test fitted motor/AOD/headers - time to tweak

[Jonk67]

Well I finally got a couple hours to myself to test fit my drivetrain for tweaks, measure for driveshaft, find clearance issues, etc. Special thanks to Steve-SellersRodShop for the use of his hoist, helping me bend the headers and a laundry list of other things he helped me with or fabbed for me.

Need to tweak the MAC headers some more, since bending them to clear the AOD they now contact the frame (drivers) and idler arm nuts (pass.), it figures. If I can get them to clear those two side frame issues they appear to be tucked up nicely and do clear my PS ram with no drop down bracket. Had I stayed with the C4 they would have been an easy install. Really hoping the longtubes will allow my stroked 333ci w/AFR165's to breathe well, 2 1/2 exh. is next. Of course I scratched all the pretty paint I worked on spraying (can) even with towels covering the shock towers.

Got it installed by myself w/o a leveler or jacking the car up, just used a tiedown strap to keep it straight and moved a few inches, lowered/pushed, repeat. Maybe an hour, not bad for a one man job. Once I get the headers to clear I can see what needs to be done to get both motor mount bolts to slide in, got the passengers in but the drivers was off 1/2" high.

I know it seems like double work taking it back out but when I do the final install I want it to be a smooth ordeal and it's easier to fix the parts when they're back out. I really need to sit down one weekend and start a members build thread, it's taken me almost 2yrs. since teardown to get to this point though so I thought the build thread would drag on too long to have any interest.









Jon

[AzPete]

Good work but shouldn't you have the motor mount bolts in place (and trans. if not there) before the header alignment?????

[Jonk67]

I think the drivers side header pipe touching the frame is pushing the engine over 1/4"-1/2" which is why I can't get the drivers bolt in, if I could get both bolts in I would. I don't have my trans. cross member yet so I had to guesstimate height with a jack, fairly centerd in tunnel and with the motor mounts lined up but not quite all the way down on one side I should be pretty close left to right. Moving the trans tail up/down or L/R still gives me header contact so until I can get those tweaked (BFH) I can't get any closer to being final install location.

I'll wait on measuring for DS until the trans mount is on but there's plenty else I can do like mark the trans pan for a drain plug, make a rod for the trans to shifter, etc.
Jon

[daveSanborn]

I'll wait on measuring for DS until the trans mount is on

That's not entirely necessary.  If you've got the engine sitting directly over the mounts, but it just hasn't dropped down onto the holes enough to insert the mount bolts.... and the transmission is somewhat aligned left to right and heightwise.... go ahead and measure from the flat end surface of the transmissions output shaft back to the flat surface of the pinion yoke's u-joint (the halfway point of an imaginary installed rear u-joint).  From this measurement... should be somewhere around 50"..... any quality driveshaft shop should be able to manufacture you a custom length driveshaft.  The only other info they should need is the type transmission and pinion yoke's u-joint series (1310, 1330, or 1350).  The finished driveshaft should be 3/4" short of bottoming out on the output shaft.

[Jonk67]

Thanks Dave, so I just need to seat the yolk and measure center of UJoint caps F/R and subtract 3/4" that the front yoke will be extended for driveline flex and that will give me my driveshaft length. I have the FRPP M-4841-B 28 spline slip yoke that takes the 1330 size (pic) and 2 driveshafts (stock '67 C4 and Alum. fox body) I may pick from or get a custom/FRPP. 

Thanks again, Jon

[daveSanborn]

Thanks Dave, so I just need to seat the yolk and measure center of UJoint caps F/R and subtract 3/4" that the front yoke will be extended for driveline flex and that will give me my driveshaft length. I have the FRPP M-4841-B 28 spline slip yoke that takes the 1330 size (pic) and 2 driveshafts (stock '67 C4 and Alum. fox body) I may pick from or get a custom/FRPP. 

Thanks again, Jon

If the motor mounts are aligned front to rear and close side to side, but the motor just won't drop down due to header/whatever interference.... and your transmission angle is somewhat close, then yes.  The 3/4" "slop" between the front yoke and the output shaft will cover any minor variances.  Any good driveshaft shop should be able to make you a shaft based upon your above mentioned measurement.

[johnpro]

I think the drivers side header pipe touching the frame is pushing the engine over 1/4"-1/2" which is why I can't get the drivers bolt in, if I could get both bolts in I would.

Most likely you have one of the crappy repro motor mounts.  That bolt probably won't go through with no engine at all. Been there a couple times. You have to "hog out" the hole in the dog ear portion (on the half that bolts to the engine) to get a bolt through.  The mounts available these days for the driver's side are bent wrong and total crap.

[SELLERSRODSHOP]

"I don't have my trans. cross member yet so I had to guesstimate height with a jack"


i should have some time first of the week after this 40 caddy goes home to get your new crossmember made.

[Jonk67]

Most likely you have one of the crappy repro motor mounts.  That bolt probably won't go through with no engine at all. Been there a couple times. You have to "hog out" the hole in the dog ear portion (on the half that bolts to the engine) to get a bolt through.  The mounts available these days for the driver's side are bent wrong and total crap.

Thanks for the tip John, I have the Lakewood mounts so I'm hoping they're a little better quality but they could still be off. I've read about having to hog out/elongate the frame mount stand holes from others installs. Once I get the headers to not touch and can verify that they're not interfering I'll take that next step to make the holes line up.

i should have some time first of the week after this 40 caddy goes home to get your new crossmember made.

Steve, thanks for your help on that trans mount, take your time and finish that Caddy up nice. I'll be in Ft. Worth for the next 2wks. back to back so I probably won't have time to touch the car for 2 wks.

Just came back from meeting up with AtlSteve, Havok1 and MonkeyStash in Atlanta so at least I get to talk Mustangs on a work trip if I can't work on it....
Jon

[SELLERSRODSHOP]

"Just came back from meeting up with AtlSteve, Havok1 and MonkeyStash in Atlanta so at least I get to talk Mustangs on a work trip if I can't work on it...."

you can talk mustangs with them while you are home. i would make em drag out those shootin' irons again & burn some lead while you are down there. :)

[Jonk67]

That would have been fun but it was a late night meet up so we went here http://www.tiltedkilt.com/index.php?itemid=21 instead of the range for obvious reasons....we're all Irish of course :amaz
Jon