This could be fun... building a drag race car?

[tarafied1]

Okay, I have an idea. Maybe a really bad idea, Let me know what you all think.
As you all know I acquired the 67 POS from Dave with the original intent to make a trailer out of it. Dave stripped it down pretty much to just a shell but threw in the trunk lid and rear valence and tail lights and left the 4 lug 6 banger suspension.

Maybe I have been drinking too much one night and thought, "I could build a real cheap Drag car out of this thing"
I have traded a fuel filler (which I still have to make/modify and send out) to Ryan for the trunk hinges and left end cap. I also traded some fuel fillers to janschutz (which I also still have to modify and ship) for a peace to repair some rust in the trunk channel. I also just bought some 68 parts from jrherald420 for pretty good price, (which I plan to go get this week) most of which I don't need but could use on the POS. janschutz is parting out a 67 and is willing to sell a lot of things I might could use/need also. I have in my own stash, the rest of the front clip, two hoods, a back window, one side rear window, bumpers and brackets, and lots of little stuff. I still need doors, a steering column, a 8" or 9" rear, windsheild, the cowl and panel below the rear glass, and I'm sure a lot smaller items I don't have. I can do basic wiring and won't need a full interior. I might try to make it street legal so I won't have to trailer it.
So right now I have very little invested cash.
I have a 1977 351W and C6 in a running motorhome I could strip (it's just sitting in the woods on my dad's property in Eastern KY and now I bought a used 27' camper so I don't need it and it's not worth anything to sell. I live between two drag strips, one in Clarksville is an 1/8th mile and the other in Bowling Green is a 1/4 mile but they do run the 1/8th. SO I was thinking I could slap together a cheap 1/8 mile car to beat-on and have some fun. The POS is rough in some weird places but solid in most of the normally rusty places. I still need a lot of parts and it would take some work but if I continue to collect parts cheap or trades and do all the work myself I wouldn't have a lot into it, it wouldn't be all that quick and it doesn't have to be pretty but it could be a lot of fun. I could paint StangFix.com on the sides since most of it has been made possible by the forum.
What do you all think? Do it or just stick to making a trailer?

[AzPete]

Do it.....and put a tow bar on it to use as a trailer when you need to.....or to tow it to the track with another Mustang. Wonder if you could cut down the RV rear end.......lol Do plexi-glass windows to save weight.

[Midlife]

Bwahahahaha!  He said "cheap" and "drag car" in the same sentence!

Boy, I want whatever you're drinkin'.

[tarafied1]

Bwahahahaha!  He said "cheap" and "drag car" in the same sentence!

Boy, I want whatever you're drinkin'.

yeah but I didn't say "Fast"
and the Motor home has a 1 ton 8 lug dual wheel rear, that would get lots of traction!

okay, okay so maybe it's a really bad idea, I didn't have anyone sitting around the campfire with me to discuss it (talk me out of it) so I posted here...

[AzPete]

For the next idea.....

[tarafied1]

yeah, it was like that but the fire was bigger, and it was a better idea than this guy followed thru with... right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Ford-Mustang-4X4-Bronco-Conversion-/260629030310?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3caeb365a6#ht_642wt_1165

[gotstang]

You're nuts. But, I'd do it too. :lol

[68bucks]

although I'm only looking at one photo of it on trailer, I say that pony is to nice to cut in half! I say go for the race car! It would be cool if you could find a fiberglass tilt front end for it! I see cheap doors on craigslist all the time.

[RyanG85]

I have the rest of the rusted car those trunk hinges came from....... what else do you need???

[daveSanborn]

Craig,

I stripped the car because you were only going to make a trailer out of the back half of the car.  If we'd known that the possibility existed that you would make a drag car out of it I could have left all of your missing pieces installed on the car.  Whatevers been removed from the car that you need you're welcome to.


Something else to consider....  Drag cars do not need a title.  Classic Mustangs without titles can usually be had very cheaply.  You could probably find an untitled NON RUSTY car out west for $500-600.  Although fixing the rust issues on the '67 POS is possible, it's likely that you'll spend a lot more than $5-600 to do it.

[RyanG85]

Dave brings up some good points! I wouldnt abandon the trailer idea yet either..... Now that your trunk is full of stereo equipment, you'll need the extra room. 

[Horseplay]

yeah but I didn't say "Fast"

Two simple truths. No drag car is cheap and a slow drag car is no fun.

Having said that, I still vote you go for it. No mustang should have it's days ended to be hacked up and used as a trailer.

[rsalway]

I agree, go for the drag car. Trailers are for trucks.

[66gt350]

Two simple truths. No drag car is cheap and a slow drag car is no fun.

+1 on both those.  I'd have to add my vote to not chop it up.  Build it up and have some fun!!

[silverblueBP]

Keep in mind Craig, a race car is nothing more than a hole to throw money into.




but it sure is fun  

[daveSanborn]

Keep in mind Craig, a race car is nothing more than a hole to through throw money into.




but it sure is fun 

Fixed it for you.  Gotta love that FL education system.

[RyanG85]

 :lol :lol

[janschutz]

If I was building a drag car, I would leave the interior as stripped as possible.  If you want it street legal, just install things like wipers if needed for inspection.  Quarter windows can be omitted or bolted in the upright position and remove the regulators. 

Building a cage would be fun but I am sure there are regulations for those. 

Start with the stuff you have and slowly pour money into it to make it faster and safer.

I hear drum brakes are lighter and oldtime racers used them.

[daveSanborn]

I hear drum brakes are lighter and oldtime racers used them.

IMO, properly working drum brakes are fine for an 1/8th mile car and to some extent 1/4 mile cars.  Once you get into the 120-130 MPH area on a track with a shorter than desired overrun area you'd maybe benefit from disc brakes.   

[Horseplay]

I hear drum brakes are lighter and oldtime racers used them.

I doubt that is the case. Having recently had to get rid of some old drums I can tell you they ain't light! Compared to a decent drilled/vented rotor and aluminum caliper the weight reduction with the disk system is big. And then there is the fact that Dave brings up about being able to actually stop the car.

You can shed a lot of weight by cutting back on the interior stuff.

Yes there are specific rules and specifications for roll bars and cages. Be sure to know what is mandatory based upon your projected ET. Go too fast (is there such a thing?)and you need to have it built by a certified welder in order to race. For what I would assume the target here, owner built would be fine. It is more about chassis improvement than enhanced safety at this level.

[AzPete]

Projected ET.....I think he hopes it will make it down the track......before the next race behind him starts. :lol :lol :lol

[tarafied1]

I can always count on Pete for constructive criticism!
Dave,
I did truly intend to make a trailer but the the event I wanted it for (Hot Rod Power Tour) came and went. That doesn't mean I won't still need a trailer. As pointed out I may need one more now.
I also agree a cheap western car may be better, it's just that this one is sitting in the garage and tempting me as it is already stripped. I keep looking at it thinking, I hate to cut it in half. I like the idea of keeping no interior and no window regulators. There was this club I read about that bought cheap cars and tried to make them faster by just taking a lot of weight out and simple mods. It got me thinking, this car would be fun to play with and not mess with my other 67.
I hate to take the parts from you Dave, you did all the work to take 'em off and were nice enough to donate the car. You should keep them. Plus that was a long long drive! The rust that it has is no worse than the Mustang I'm driving but for this project I'm considering, it won't be a show car for sure. I know a race car is not cheap, I have always wanted to race/compete. I had a "hobby" stock or street stock dirt car long ago and I know it gets expensive. I just don't want to take away from the reliability and drive-abilty of my current car but I go to the drags regularly and just thought I have the perfect shell since it was a 6 cyl coupe of no particular value. I can run pretty quick and still not need a certified chassis and cage. I like to build engines so it would be fun trying different cams, carbs, heads, whatever... I don't know what I'm gonna do. This car is missing a lot of stuff and does need some bodywork.
Ryan,
I hate to take stuff from you either. If I do this I will buy or trade for the parts it needs.
I just needed to hear from logical people (even Pete) to see if I was totally crazy for even thinking it.

[tarafied1]

here is the NHRA rules on roll cage:

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:

-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required.

So if I keep it a 10 second 1/4 mile or 6.39 1/8 mile car or slower, the cage doesn't have to be certified. It would take a lot of $$$ to get it that quick. If I could get under 8 in the 1/8th I'd be happy (for a while)

[AzPete]

Even thou I have no extra parts, I would suggest a completely donated StangFix drag car. You do the work and parts come from anyone who can get them to you. Could be an interesting rig.

[tarafied1]

Even thou I have no extra parts, I would suggest a completely donated StangFix drag car. You do the work and parts come from anyone who can get them to you. Could be an interesting rig.

Cool Idea Pete, donations excepted but that isn't what I was after, just really "feel" like doing it and was looking for input. You know sometimes we do things based on the heart and not the head!