The new guy and his new car

[wayjon0]

Hi everyone

Well I finally pulled the trigger and bought a 68 fastback to work on. I've wanted a 67-68 since I was a kid, so I'm pretty excited. I bought it sight unseen, so I'm sure I'm in for a few surprises when it gets here this weekend.

Currently the car is a 289 with AT and front disk brakes and here's what the body shop that inspected it had to say about it.

1) Prior repair that may need to be addressed
-Front apron under the battery tray has been replaced and were it meets the strut tower the part has been blended in.
-Right and left rear aprons has been worked on in the past cannot judge extent and quality of work due to fenders that are still on the vehicle.
 2) Parts that will require replacement
 -The trunk pan will need to be replaced.
-The left front floor pan would need to be replaced
-Right windshield post has a small hole under drip rail.
-The right and left outer quarter panels will need to be replaced
-The right outer wheelhouse will need to be replaced
-The left outer wheelhouse Will need partial rear lower replacement.  
 --The general judge of appearance on paint would be a 6 on a scale of 1 to 10. 10 being perfect
--The right and left doors and decklid are in good shape the hood is fiberglass

My plan is to replace the 289 with a 351w and convert it to a 5 speed transmission and install a 9” rear end if it doesn't have one. There is a huge swap meet at the end of this month out at Texas Motor Speedway and I would like to pick up as many parts as I can.

So here go the questions

• Any recommendations on a site that has a part list for the 5 speed conversion? I'm leaning toward a TKO 600 transmission.
• What is the easiest way to identify a TKO 600 vs 500 assuming I find one available at the swap meet?
• Any advice on how I can identify the correct size 9“ housing for  a 68 mustang? If anyone knows of a site that details a rear end rebuild that would be helpful too.
• Last but not least, I am going to be looking for a local shop to do the body and paint and will probably need a recommendation for an engine shop too. I live in Carrollton, TX just a few miles north of Dallas.

and pics of the bright orange thing




 
Thanks
Wayne

[blue65coupe]

Welcome and congrats.  One of the few rules here is the inclusion of pics.  Post 'em when you get the car.  You'll find a ton of info from the yahoos here. 

[Fast68back]

Welcome, Great to have another North Texas Mustang on the site!!!!
 
As far as your list, check with modern driveline first. They offer packages/kits with everything you will need for the conversion.

Try this site for 9" identification http://ultrastang.com/Page.asp?PageID=6

I'll let a few others recommend body shops and engine shops. I used Ron Mohr in North Richland Hills, he does amazing bodywork and paint, as long as you have an extra arm and leg.....

[aslan]

Welcome to SF!
Stan

[janschutz]

welcome to the board.  I am in Allen TX

[daveSanborn]

Wayne,

Welcome to the wonderful world of owning a classic Mustang.

Some free advice:

Slow down.

I've wanted a 67-68 since I was a kid, so I'm pretty excited.

Unless you're getting ready to kick the bucket, your dream car isn't going anywhere.  Do it right the first time and you'll avoid wasting time and money.


I bought it sight unseen, so I'm sure I'm in for a few surprises when it gets here this weekend.


Trust me, you're in for a LOT of surprises.  Based upon the description from the bodyshop you're looking at a LOT of metal work.  Understand that it's unlikely that the bodyshop that inspected the vehicle understands these cars half as well as most of the members here.  Building a classic Mustang is a fairly easy/straightforward process, but it has to start with a solid foundation....  the body.  Before you spend a dime on "go fast goodies" like a TKO or 9", realistically, unless you do the work yourself you're looking at probably $5k in metal work.  Since the drivers side floor needs to be replaced, this is usually a sign that the cowl is leaking.  If that's the case, $5k will get you started, but you'll need more cash.  The good news is it's only money.  You can make more.

IMO, this should be your agenda:

1.  Thoroughly inspect the car for any damage.  Use this forum and the knowledge from our members to help perform this inspection.  There's nothing that you'll find that we all haven't seen before.

2.  Figure out if your skill level will allow you to carry out any of the necessary repairs or if you'll need to farm them all out to a qualified shop.  If/when you do need/find a qualified shop understand that your "emergency" to get the car repaired isn't their "emergency".  It's not uncommon for a really good shop to have your car in various stages of progress for months/years.  You'll hear it refered to as "paint jail".  Of course it can be repaired faster/quicker, but you'd better be standing there with your wallet open to make it happen.  Based upon only the description you've provided of the bodies condition, a quality shop's repair bill to include paint could EASILY top $10k.

3.  Dream about the days of going to swap meets to source replacement parts and when all you have to do is figure out the difference between a TKO600 and 500 and then buy one (by the way, it's an internal difference and can't be determined from the outside).

Slow down.

We can tell you everything you'll need to know and more... whether it's good news or bad.... but don't let your excitement over obtaining your dream car cause you to jump into poor decisions.

Also, since your car's coming with a 289 there's not a snowball's chance in he!! that there's a 9" rearend in it unless someone swapped it in already.

[janschutz]

I forgot to add, Give me a holler when you need help,  I love the 67-68s. 

[B67FSTB]

Welcome Newbie to SF , you gonna like it here.

And listen to DavidSanborn's advice.It gonna save you some money on the pile of money you gona spent.

And pics pics and pics.Our motto is : Without pictures , it didn't happen !!!

[cmayna]

68 Fastback?  Geez, thought you'd have better taste............. :lol

Welcome to the crazy site.  Maybe you can help keep these goof balls in line.

[buening]

Welcome!  Glad to see another non-Norcal fellow on here   :5         :rofl

[B67FSTB]

68 Fastback?  Geez, thought you'd have better taste............. :lol

Welcome to the crazy site.  Maybe you can help keep these goof balls in line.

said the goof ball !!

[wayjon0]

Slow down.

Have you been talking to my wife??.....yes, I do have a tendency to be a little OCD on occasion.

I had always planned to do much of the work myself.

I'll get some pictures up soon, the only ones I have at the moment are close ups of the trouble spots.

[abrahamfh]

Welcome!  Glad to see another non-Norcal fellow on here   :5         :rofl

Way too funny, the Texas crew is getting bigger though.

Welcome to the fix, Jeff should be by soon with some cookies and I think I can find the kool aid somewhere around here. 

Eureka, I found some,  :kaid

God save Nor-Cal. LoL   :itson

[beach pony]

Welcome to Stangix! In the immortal words of our very own Azpete: If it ain't broke, we'll fix it anyway! You'll have lots of good sound help here. Quality folks with tons of smarts! :craz

[DEL65]

Welcome. Ignore the anti-NorCal comments. Jealousy.

+1 with David S's comments. This site is a great resource. Any local clubs fore you to join?

[Sluggo]

Modern Driveline is definitely a good source.

So is Glen at Rosehill Performance.
http://www.rosehillperformanceparts.com/Products_Page.htm
Glen is local to me and has some great stuff. His prices are awesome. Don't buy a T5 block plate anywhere else. He's got the best price I have found on it.

Check out the events board. A number of us Texans are headed to Oklahoma City in June. Less the 3 hour drive for you.

[FordDude]

Welcome to the fix, Jeff should be by soon with some cookies and I think I can find the kool aid somewhere around here. 

And here is Jeff with the cookies.  :craz



fd

[Johnny M]

Wayne,

Welcome to the wonderful world of owning a classic Mustang.

Some free advice:

Slow down.

I've wanted a 67-68 since I was a kid, so I'm pretty excited.

Unless you're getting ready to kick the bucket, your dream car isn't going anywhere.  Do it right the first time and you'll avoid wasting time and money.


I bought it sight unseen, so I'm sure I'm in for a few surprises when it gets here this weekend.


Trust me, you're in for a LOT of surprises.  Based upon the description from the bodyshop you're looking at a LOT of metal work.  Understand that it's unlikely that the bodyshop that inspected the vehicle understands these cars half as well as most of the members here.  Building a classic Mustang is a fairly easy/straightforward process, but it has to start with a solid foundation....  the body.  Before you spend a dime on "go fast goodies" like a TKO or 9", realistically, unless you do the work yourself you're looking at probably $5k in metal work.  Since the drivers side floor needs to be replaced, this is usually a sign that the cowl is leaking.  If that's the case, $5k will get you started, but you'll need more cash.  The good news is it's only money.  You can make more.

IMO, this should be your agenda:

1.  Thoroughly inspect the car for any damage.  Use this forum and the knowledge from our members to help perform this inspection.  There's nothing that you'll find that we all haven't seen before.

2.  Figure out if your skill level will allow you to carry out any of the necessary repairs or if you'll need to farm them all out to a qualified shop.  If/when you do need/find a qualified shop understand that your "emergency" to get the car repaired isn't their "emergency".  It's not uncommon for a really good shop to have your car in various stages of progress for months/years.  You'll hear it refered to as "paint jail".  Of course it can be repaired faster/quicker, but you'd better be standing there with your wallet open to make it happen.  Based upon only the description you've provided of the bodies condition, a quality shop's repair bill to include paint could EASILY top $10k.

3.  Dream about the days of going to swap meets to source replacement parts and when all you have to do is figure out the difference between a TKO600 and 500 and then buy one (by the way, it's an internal difference and can't be determined from the outside).

Slow down.

We can tell you everything you'll need to know and more... whether it's good news or bad.... but don't let your excitement over obtaining your dream car cause you to jump into poor decisions.

Also, since your car's coming with a 289 there's not a snowball's chance in he!! that there's a 9" rearend in it unless someone swapped it in already.

Thats all great advice......I know because i am 2 years into a build. I've made the mistakes already!!!!

[apollard]

Welcome. Dave's comments are dead on - I know, I have a '68 that only needed the front floor replaced. Finished the passengers front, I should finish the drivers side (not just front) in a month or so.  :)

The good news is I haven't found too much other rust (yet), and the cowl is solid (leaking windshield caused the floor problem).

[KBMWRS]

You're not a lawyer? Are ya?...just checkin' :vic

welcome...and you can always do what some do.......just open your wallet and have someone else do ALL the work. :craz

[wayjon0]

You're not a lawyer?

No, just a lowly IT guy.

and you can always do what some do.......just open your wallet and have someone else do ALL the work

LOL...my wife said the same thing. She also called my lovely new orange car "the great pumpkin". After I get it down to the metal and see how much work is there I may rethink the pay someone else to do it route.

[KBMWRS]

WAY higher on the food chain. :lol

I have a toy Mustang (with interchangeable parts) that looks just like your car.

[sigtauenus]

Wayne,

Welcome to the wonderful world of owning a classic Mustang.

Some free advice:

Slow down.

I've wanted a 67-68 since I was a kid, so I'm pretty excited.

Unless you're getting ready to kick the bucket, your dream car isn't going anywhere.  Do it right the first time and you'll avoid wasting time and money.


I bought it sight unseen, so I'm sure I'm in for a few surprises when it gets here this weekend.


Trust me, you're in for a LOT of surprises.  Based upon the description from the bodyshop you're looking at a LOT of metal work.  Understand that it's unlikely that the bodyshop that inspected the vehicle understands these cars half as well as most of the members here.  Building a classic Mustang is a fairly easy/straightforward process, but it has to start with a solid foundation....  the body.  Before you spend a dime on "go fast goodies" like a TKO or 9", realistically, unless you do the work yourself you're looking at probably $5k in metal work.  Since the drivers side floor needs to be replaced, this is usually a sign that the cowl is leaking.  If that's the case, $5k will get you started, but you'll need more cash.  The good news is it's only money.  You can make more.

IMO, this should be your agenda:

1.  Thoroughly inspect the car for any damage.  Use this forum and the knowledge from our members to help perform this inspection.  There's nothing that you'll find that we all haven't seen before.

2.  Figure out if your skill level will allow you to carry out any of the necessary repairs or if you'll need to farm them all out to a qualified shop.  If/when you do need/find a qualified shop understand that your "emergency" to get the car repaired isn't their "emergency".  It's not uncommon for a really good shop to have your car in various stages of progress for months/years.  You'll hear it refered to as "paint jail".  Of course it can be repaired faster/quicker, but you'd better be standing there with your wallet open to make it happen.  Based upon only the description you've provided of the bodies condition, a quality shop's repair bill to include paint could EASILY top $10k.

3.  Dream about the days of going to swap meets to source replacement parts and when all you have to do is figure out the difference between a TKO600 and 500 and then buy one (by the way, it's an internal difference and can't be determined from the outside).

Slow down.

We can tell you everything you'll need to know and more... whether it's good news or bad.... but don't let your excitement over obtaining your dream car cause you to jump into poor decisions.

Also, since your car's coming with a 289 there's not a snowball's chance in he!! that there's a 9" rearend in it unless someone swapped it in already.

Great advice.  Car in my signature just came back from paint and body last month after 18 months in the shop.  Bill was for 328 hours labor, which is about 2 months if he only worked on my car for 2 months straight.  Does that happen?  Yes, it does, but only if you walk in the door willing to sign a contract and write a check for the estimated cost to do the project.  Otherwise you put down a depost, he does some work, then while you save up for the next check to write, he does some work on another guy's car.  Writing a check $2500 or $4000 at a time and seeing the progress is a lot easier than writing a check for $20,000 up front.

Mentally prepare yourself for the reality of replacing stuff you don't think needs replaced.  The quarter panel skin and outer wheelhouse you know needs replaced might turn into full frame rails and the entire back of the car due to hidden rust or collision damage, or both.  Any body shop can give an estimate when it comes to metal work, but all bets are off after they actually open up the car, as nobody can provide an accurate estimate sight-unseen on what's behind the outer layer of metal. 

[daveSanborn]

She also called my lovely new orange car "the great pumpkin".

By any chance is your wife named "Jeremy"?

[Grabber70Mach]

By any chance is your wife named "Jeremy"?

ROTFLMAO :DD :Kburn  :rofl :rofl :rofl