Author Topic: Engine removal tips (Read 1544 times)

abrahamfh · « **Reply #25 on:** April, 13, 2010, 01:08:54 PM »

Quote from: 2ndgen on April, 13, 2010, 10:38:58 AM

Don't forget the engine ground strap that is present on many of these cars - it attaches to the firewall and the back of the passenger side cylinder head. It is very easy to overlook - ask me how I know!

-Rory

I will most definitely check for that when I get home tonight, thank you for mentioning it. I still have plenty to disconnect and remove but focussing on the engine compartment first, working my way back to the transmission and finally the driveline.

cmayna · « **Reply #26 on:** April, 13, 2010, 07:08:02 PM »

Quote from: abrahamfh on April, 13, 2010, 12:54:04 PM

The stand has been ordered and on its way from Broadway Lift and Equipment in San Pablo. I could have gone to pick it up myself but oh well, its about 40 miles from my house.

Had to modify this post to say that I just recieved a phone call that the engine stand has arrived.

But Abe,
I already gave you an engine stand. Where did it go?

abrahamfh · « **Reply #27 on:** April, 13, 2010, 10:39:09 PM »

Quote from: cmayna on April, 13, 2010, 07:08:02 PM

But Abe,
I already gave you an engine stand. Where did it go?

The one you gave me is perfect for the 351. This cradle style one I just got is so that I can store the 289 and roll it out of the way if ever it needed to be relocated. I still have to re organize the garage a bit to store and keep track of things. Yippy

cmayna · « **Reply #28 on:** April, 14, 2010, 05:46:40 AM »

Now I understand, which is a major accomplishment.

KBMWRS · « **Reply #29 on:** April, 14, 2010, 08:02:15 AM »

Abe, I don't know what you're worrying about. Heck when we pull hard enough it will all come out...connected or not. :craz :vic

abrahamfh · « **Reply #30 on:** April, 14, 2010, 08:29:42 AM »

Quote from: KBMWRS on April, 14, 2010, 08:02:15 AM

Abe, I don't know what you're worrying about. Heck when we pull hard enough it will all come out...connected or not. :craz :vic

:scar :scar :beat

You guys are the best, thanks again for all your help in the past and in the future. I'm not worried one bit, you guys are all veterans and I admire all of your cars and all the great work you all have put into them. The only thing I'm worried about is making sure we live up to our NorCal code of honor, 2THEBAR!!!! LoL.

KBMWRS · « **Reply #31 on:** April, 14, 2010, 08:50:57 AM »

But we are stricked about no drinking and driving.

abrahamfh · « **Reply #32 on:** April, 14, 2010, 10:38:38 AM »

I dont know why it totally skipped my mind that everyone was going to be driving. :scar I am so sorry about that. Well, I will have a 6 pack in the fridge but will have all the other drinks in a cooler in the garage.

Yellow=MY HOUSE
Green=PARKING (about 7-8 cars fit along the side of the house, very very low traffic due to it being within the townhomes)

johnpro · « **Reply #33 on:** April, 14, 2010, 07:29:19 PM »

Quote from: KBMWRS on April, 14, 2010, 08:50:57 AM

But we are stricked about no drinking and driving.

:lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol

abrahamfh · « **Reply #34 on:** April, 28, 2010, 03:48:05 PM »

I was wondering if some of you would share your thoughts to finalize the game plan for Saturday.

When using a carb plate, do you usually disconnect the transmission? I'm trying to visualize the carb plate and engine leveler working together.

When using an engine leveler while trying to remove both the engine and transmission, do you raise the rearend of the Mustang?

Once the above have been established, when using the engine leveler, (whether its using the carb plate or bolts to the heads) do you start off with the fulcrum towards the radiator support?

Or do you start off with the fulcrum towards the firewall?

Sorry about the elementary questions and the horrible photo editing, I'm stuck using Microsoft paint here at work.

All your suggestions will be used to have a final game plan preselected so as not to take too much of everyones time from us hanging out and eating. LoL

AzPete · « **Reply #35 on:** April, 28, 2010, 04:13:40 PM »

With a carb plate, I do not use a leveler as you do not get a true ability to level from such close hook points. No tranny7 attached.

As for the start position, I use the center and adjust as I proceed.

Raising the rear of the car for a combined tranny and engine pull helps but is not necessary.....but it helps.....alot.

daveSanborn · « **Reply #36 on:** April, 29, 2010, 04:43:56 AM »

Abe,

Like Pete said, it's easier just to get the load leveler installed and play it by ear once the engine starts lifting out of the car.

What you can do to speed up the engine/trans removal process is:

Driveshaft removed.

The two nuts securing the transmission mount to the transmission crossmember removed.

Speedo cable disconnected and tucked up along a frame rail.

Ebrake cables disconnected at their front end and out of the way.

Nuts on the two bolts securing the transmission crossmember to the floor support removed (leave the bolts installed until the hoist is connected).

I noticed in your latest photo's that the cowl to shock tower braces are still installed. Are you going to remove the engine with those installed? If you'll be cleaning/detailing the engine compartment later, you might as well remove those braces now to open up the engine compartment even further for engine removal.

Nuts removed from engine mount to frame bolts.

opentrackerSteve · « **Reply #37 on:** April, 30, 2010, 09:14:34 AM »

When I did this many moons ago, I remember:

1) remove the front cross member cross brace
2) drop the center link and tie rods if not, it will interfer or cause you to raise the powertrain at a steeper angle than without it in there

3) best off just getting a keg with the yahoos you've invited. go for Old Milwakeee. It's got old in its name!

abrahamfh · « **Reply #38 on:** April, 30, 2010, 01:17:40 PM »

Quote from: daveSanborn on April, 29, 2010, 04:43:56 AM

Abe,

Like Pete said, it's easier just to get the load leveler installed and play it by ear once the engine starts lifting out of the car.

What you can do to speed up the engine/trans removal process is:

~~Driveshaft removed.~~

~~The two nuts securing the transmission mount to the transmission crossmember removed.~~

Speedo cable disconnected and tucked up along a frame rail.

Ebrake cables disconnected at their front end and out of the way.

~~Nuts on the two bolts securing the transmission crossmember to the floor support removed (leave the bolts installed until the hoist is connected).~~

I noticed in your latest photo's that the cowl to shock tower braces are still installed. Are you going to remove the engine with those installed? If you'll be cleaning/detailing the engine compartment later, you might as well remove those braces now to open up the engine compartment even further for engine removal.

~~Nuts removed from engine mount to frame bolts.~~

The bolts were treated with PB Blaster and loosened, I figured I can remove them completely right before we started trying to take everything out. (trans to trans crossmember; trans crossmember to floor support; engine mount to block[I will look into the mounts to frame, I didnt think about that])

Tonight I will be taking on the Ebrake and Speedo removal. Not sure what is all involved or really how to go about it, but I'm sure after starring at it for an hour a plan might come about. LoL :craz

cmayna · « **Reply #39 on:** April, 30, 2010, 06:06:49 PM »

Abe,
Any question, call me tonight. Otherwise we can always take care of all last minute disconnect in the am. I am bring an extra set of wrenches, just in case.

garner67 · « **Reply #40 on:** April, 30, 2010, 09:17:22 PM »

It's all good. Looks like you have it all under control, and you'll be surprised how fast and how little effort it takes to pull an engine out of yer old Mustang.

Just in case we blow through the engine removal, maybe you should have a few extra projects waiting in the wings.

cya in the morning.

beach pony · « **Reply #41 on:** May, 01, 2010, 02:22:59 AM »

have fun ya meatheads! :lol

nymustang · « **Reply #42 on:** May, 01, 2010, 04:24:47 AM »

You guys will be just fine. Only thing I would add is have lots of tarps and/or kitty litter to catch whatever spills there might be. I found the even after draining my radiator, there was still a big mess from coolant pouring out of the engine. Good luck and have fun!

lethal289 · « **Reply #43 on:** May, 01, 2010, 02:28:49 PM »

Its 6:30 on the east coast now, i hope you guys are done, and on your way to being Chit faced by now! :nta

garner67 · « **Reply #44 on:** May, 01, 2010, 02:44:38 PM »

It's all wrapped up. No spills or busted knuckles. Started around 10a, and done by 12:30p. Then, courtesy of Abe and his Dad, we had some killer tacos. Best of all, JohnPro made an appearance just to make sure we were well supervised.

I'm sure some pics will be posted by Craig and/or Abe to prove the event actually happened.

Nor Cal StangFix'ers rock!

beach pony · « **Reply #45 on:** May, 01, 2010, 04:52:58 PM »

Quote from: garner67 on May, 01, 2010, 02:44:38 PM

Nor Cal StangFix'ers rock!

I gotta say, even from 3000 miles away, it's pretty evident, your right. Y'all are one helluva bunch out there! :5

johnpro · « **Reply #46 on:** May, 01, 2010, 05:37:43 PM »

Abe had his chit together. That was the easiest, fastest engine pull I've ever done. Thanks for having me over, Abe. It was great to get out of the house, get out of the city, and work on cars with good friends!!!

:nk

cmayna · « **Reply #47 on:** May, 01, 2010, 06:44:12 PM »

Here's a new thread. John, it was fantastic in seeing you. Glad to see the doctors finally found something to shut up your pie hole.........

http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,6768.msg83301.html#msg83301

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Author Topic: Engine removal tips (Read 1544 times)

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