Author Topic: My Custom Motor Mount build thread (Read 4672 times)

buening · « **Reply #50 on:** May, 05, 2010, 01:11:58 PM »

Quote from: Horseplay on May, 05, 2010, 12:25:23 PM

Looking at it again I can see where it would get pretty tight. Another way to accomplish the same (maybe even better) support would be to put a "T" off the triangular piece, tying the cylinder to the same plate in a different plane. In pic #8 of your recent post, this new piece would be vertical and perpendicular to the existing triangle. It would weld to the cylinder, vertical end of the triangle and the same plate as the triangle piece. Essentially between the tower plates.

Too confusing? or do you see what I mean? This would negate any forces either twisting or pushing against the side of the triangle piece.

I see what you mean and Sluggo mentioned that previously. Basically using a gusset plate to stiffen that section up. The only catch is that the clearance between the top plate of the T and the cylinder at this location is about 1/4", so the gusset would basically be one big weld by the time you weld the top and bottom. I may still look into fitting something in there to stiffen things up if I find fatigue is an issue with these mounts after some use. Thanks for the tip!

buening · « **Reply #51 on:** May, 05, 2010, 01:14:13 PM »

Quote from: opentrackerSteve on May, 05, 2010, 12:21:00 PM

looking good. the weld the bolt idea is nifty. Are you considering making this part out of aluminum or could it be? What does it weigh?

Have you had a structural engr do some analysis on the loads and if you're in good shape in that department? You also might want to weld a washer on on the plate where the two nuts go near that fillet/gusset area (the piece in the middle). Weld beads might be what the nuts will end up riding on and that will provide a point stress load on them.....

Thanks! Haven't thought about using aluminum but doubt it'd be strong enough. Haven't weighed them yet but they are a bit heavier than the stock units. I probably overdid it on some of the steel thickness though.

I am a licensed structural engineer. Determining what kind of load these things will see (since dynamics are involved and multiple possible load directions) has been my sticking point. Probably more geared towards a Mechanical Engineer design than structural. I can't quantify what kind of front to back (in relation to the engine) force these things will see in order to determine if that gusset is even worth considering. Then trying to estimate the downward force from the engine due to not only the dead load but the torque is another thing I'm not sure on.

The welds are just far enough away that the nuts don't touch the welds, but welding a washer would be a good idea!

Horseplay · « **Reply #52 on:** May, 05, 2010, 01:32:56 PM »

Quote from: buening on May, 05, 2010, 01:11:58 PM

I see what you mean and Sluggo mentioned that previously. Basically using a gusset plate to stiffen that section up. The only catch is that the clearance between the top plate of the T and the cylinder at this location is about 1/4", so the gusset would basically be one big weld by the time you weld the top and bottom. I may still look into fitting something in there to stiffen things up if I find fatigue is an issue with these mounts after some use. Thanks for the tip!

Even so, adding a connection in a second plane like that would give it considerably more strength. Nice work by the way.

coupe3w · « **Reply #53 on:** May, 06, 2010, 06:39:42 AM »

bueing nice job. :10 I did this in Solidworks.

buening · « **Reply #54 on:** May, 06, 2010, 06:53:01 AM »

Sweet!!!

toddwallace · « **Reply #55 on:** May, 21, 2010, 09:55:01 PM »

Nice..What did you end up paying for the steel and the work to cut it??

Would like to get a set..

Quote from: buening on April, 20, 2010, 07:01:48 PM

Nothing too exciting since they are bare steel and still need cleaned up. I did check for waterjet pricing in my area and only found two places that have the capability. One wanted $150 and the other wanted $225. My mounts may not look as pretty as one from a waterjet, but paying those prices would not have saved me a dime.

These pics are for one motor mount only. The other set looks identical obviously. The lower right and lower left pieces are 3/8" as well as the triangular piece, while the rest is 3/16". The lower right plate probably weighs about 5lbs by itself....definitely bulky! I only had time to make a single 3/16" shim for each side. If more shims are needed I will make them. The shim is to the right of the lower left 3/8" piece and didn't come out exactly like the 3/8", so I'll take a grinder to get them closer to the same size.

I just need to get out the die grinder and get to work cleaning up these edges! Will report back whenever I get the tubing and everything welded and edges all cleaned up.

gsxrken · « **Reply #56 on:** May, 23, 2010, 05:00:56 AM »

Buening- nice work. One thing I don't think I saw mentioned is that you can only go so low with the mounts before your steering arms contact the oil pan. I did some mocking up in this area when I wanted a better angle for my TKO.

And coupe3W, more pictures please. Those flares look fantastic! Details...

buening · « **Reply #57 on:** May, 23, 2010, 06:53:46 PM »

I apologize for the lack of updates. I spent the entire weekend snapping pics while I'm mocking up the T56 but haven't had much computer time. I did have to make a new top motor mount plate for the drivers side. Needless to say my measurements and cardboard mockup was limited to the passenger side, only to find out that the motor mounts are offset 1.25". They are offset so that the factory top motor mounts can be used on either side. I'll post up some pics and updated cad drawings soon.

Ken, yes there is definitely a max that you can drop the motor. I'll have to take a measurement to see exactly how much these lowered the motor but they should be exactly 1". I just installed the headers and the steering linkage and I have roughly 1/4" or so between the oil pan and the steering linkage. Thankfully no clearance issues! I will have to make a new front crossmember due to the fact that I lowered the motor and moved the motor back. Due to clearance issues with the heater core tube on an A/C car (behind the passenger head) as well as power steering pump line nearly touching the shock tower I was limited to moving the engine back 1.25" instead of the planned 1.5". I could fabricate my own PS hard line so that it routes in a different direction that would give me extra clearance but I'd still be stuck with the heater core tube. I bent it slightly so that I could attach the heater hose. I'll put all this info and pictures if and whenever I start the T56 conversion thread :scar

B67FSTB · « **Reply #58 on:** May, 23, 2010, 10:42:43 PM »

I am following up this topic with great intrest.You're doing a fantastic job. :coo :coo :coo

buening · « **Reply #59 on:** June, 13, 2010, 03:13:29 PM »

Well I finally got time to take the mounts out of the car and get them painted up. Below are pics of the final assembly. For those that want the CAD file or the PDF to print out for a cut-sheet, send me a PM or reply to the thread and I'll send it to you. A few things I learned from this process is that moving the engine back 1" is about the safe maximum before you get into clearance issues, not only with the motor mounts but other things like heater core tubes or PS lines. I went with 1.25" but it required modifications to the mounts and the previous two items. Also, dropping the motor 1" is the max you can go with these mounts without issues with the bushing housing and the shock towers, as well as steering drag link clearance issues with the oil pan. They are still really close and may find that I have vibration/clattering issues with the motor running. If I have problems I'll report back.

There are some washers missing in the pic that were installed later. FYI

B67FSTB · « **Reply #60 on:** June, 14, 2010, 11:11:43 AM »

I am interested !!!! Those look sharp. Sent a pm. Thanks !!!!!

You did a beautiful job ! RESPECT !!

B.

gsxrken · « **Reply #61 on:** June, 20, 2010, 05:15:36 PM »

My JBA 351W headers ended up contacting my TCP motor mount on the drivers side. If you can see in this picture, the front cylinder pipe drops almost straight down like it is on a mission to contact the mount. It could have easily turned rearwards earlier and not contacted anything. I did some grinding on the mount but also had to clearance that pipe with heat and a BFH. Still touches now and then at low idle and drives me nuts. I wonder if you know whether your set has more room than TCP?

buening · « **Reply #62 on:** June, 20, 2010, 07:10:40 PM »

Ken,
What part of the mount was interfering? Top plate? I'd have to take a look under the car now that I have my Hooker headers installed to see if they come anywhere near the mounts. These are the only two pics I have of them installed and they don't have the headers installed at the time of pics.