Author Topic: Test fitting the T-5 and Ron Morris mounts, Update-Hydraulic clutch (Read 1936 times)

RyanG85 · « **Reply #25 on:** June, 11, 2010, 08:50:58 AM »

Weekend fun car, not a family commuter. (no kids for me anyways) I sat in the back when test fitting the roll bar and there is lots of room even for my 6'1 ass. I'll keep a slip on pad for the down tubes in the trunk if they are ever needed.

daveSanborn · « **Reply #26 on:** June, 11, 2010, 09:26:24 AM »

Quote

Weekend fun car, not a family commuter.

Cool.

Then out of curiousity..... why not remove the rear seat completely? With your skills you could probably fab up a pretty cool looking R model type shelf to put back there. The shelf is a great place to mount speakers, fire extinguisher, etc.

When I decided to install a roll bar in my car.... part of that decision invloved whether or not I wanted to retain the rear seat. I knew that if the seat was there.... and the roll bar was there.... that eventually a situation would present itself where I said to myself "okay, just this once I'll let someone sit back there". With the rear seat removed, I don't have to worry about that situation ever presenting itself.

RyanG85 · « **Reply #27 on:** June, 11, 2010, 12:08:51 PM »

Thought has crossed my mind.... Still changing things up as I go which is slowing progress down. I like the fact that in a jam, I can get someone in the back (with the bars padded)

gsxrken · « **Reply #28 on:** June, 12, 2010, 07:06:20 PM »

Looks like you are doing a great job. A note or two on the TCP racks- make sure they sit in the brackets without any bind. You may need to shim carefully so that it does not slightly bend when you begin to make up on each of the crescents. The other thing is to make sure you impact-gun the inner tie rods to the center link. I had mine inexplicably loosen and the bushing that locates in the center link beat around and oblonged the hole in the center link.
The manual rack will remind you of a dump-truck in parking maneuvers if you have wide 225+ front tires, but it fine once you are underway. Less caster and toe and more camber than a power setup and any roller/heim joints steps you can take on the front end will go towards lightening the feel.
The clutch offset bracketry looks clever. My JMC setup goes straight back; your rig may help the pushrod travel in less of an arc.
I'd also suggest you consider manual brakes- save some real estate in that firewall area, and the difference in the early cars is hard to determine. I've had power in a 65 and manual in 66 and the manual was very linear.

RyanG85 · « **Reply #29 on:** June, 12, 2010, 07:37:21 PM »

Thanks for the tips. I'll be running 225s up front. I'm hoping the steering is no heavier than my manual steer 69 with quick ratio box and 235s. I'm thinking I'll be able to run the stock castle nuts and cotter pins on the inner tie rods. On mock up, looked to be enough room. The rack will need one shim on the passenger side, otherwise, seemed to line up good. I did start out with manual brake set up but after mock up found I had enough room for the SSBC booster/master. I already fitted the booster. I hope I'm happy with the set up.

70_Fastback · « **Reply #30 on:** June, 15, 2010, 08:12:55 AM »

Looking damn good Ryan! Full steam ahead buddy!

Lemondrop · « **Reply #31 on:** June, 21, 2010, 04:55:10 PM »

Wow,
guess I've been out of the loop for a while with parts/mods. Will that clutch cylinder kit clear a fox body brake booster (mustang steve's mod)?

RyanG85 · « **Reply #32 on:** June, 21, 2010, 08:21:48 PM »

Not sure on that. I'm running the SSBC master and there is plenty of room. Here is a pic....

Sluggo · « **Reply #33 on:** June, 21, 2010, 09:08:04 PM »

Quote from: Lemondrop on June, 21, 2010, 04:55:10 PM

Wow,
guess I've been out of the loop for a while with parts/mods. Will that clutch cylinder kit clear a fox body brake booster (mustang steve's mod)?

From what I understand the Fox booster is basically same same booster body as the 69 PB booster.

Sellersrodshop has better info than me. (I think that is who told me that)

SELLERSRODSHOP · « **Reply #34 on:** June, 21, 2010, 09:18:31 PM »

the fox booster case is identical to the 67-69 with the exception of the spacer bracket & mounting bolt pattern. the vacuum connection is in a different spot also. here is a fox core sitting next to a bendix booster with spacer going on my 69.

camera angle makes the size look different in this pic, but they are the same

if i had it to do over again, i could have saved some money by finding & redrilling a spacer/bracket to fit the fox booster mounting pattern.

RyanG85 · « **Reply #35 on:** July, 25, 2010, 08:47:03 PM »

Been working every free chance I get on the 65(which isn't alot...) After mocking most everything up, I tore everything back down and put the car back on the rotiss to finish up the bottom and detail the engine bay...

My painter sprayed the engine bay

After the paint set, I installed the suspension and got her back on her feet again.

Next my painter hit the dash and gave the rest of the interior a quick shot.

I went through the garage looking for parts... Found most of what I was looking for to sand blast.

The next day, the painter powder coated everything in stamped steel or semi black

RyanG85 · « **Reply #36 on:** July, 25, 2010, 09:07:25 PM »

Trying to clean up the engine bay some and the one thing that bothered me was the classic air a/c compressor location. I guess they mount it up so high to clear the steering pump? Anyways, I thought it looked out of place and it was keeping me from getting the Street or Track monte carlo bar.

Since my car is manual steer, I decided to modify the bracket. (needed work anyways, alignment was terrible) So I cut it up.....

I relocated the mount almost 3" lower

After being satisfied with the location, I finished cutting and welding the bracket.

The other part of the bracket for the tensioner also had to be cut down to match up with the lower compressor mount.

The tensioner portion and the compressor portion of the bracket still need to be welded together to complete the project but that will wait until I get the new waterpump so i know everything lines up. Need to get the belt alignment just right then make up the correct spacers and weld everything together. I'm pretty happy with the new location but almost wish I tool the time to make it lower. That would of required a bit more work though...

daveSanborn · « **Reply #37 on:** July, 26, 2010, 05:01:30 AM »

Nice progress and good work on the AC mount. I noticed in one of your pictures that you had the ash tray painted/powder coated a different color than the dash.... is this permanent or will you be going back and painting the ash tray red to match the dash?

RyanG85 · « **Reply #38 on:** July, 26, 2010, 05:06:32 AM »

Thanks. Ashtray was just in the sandblast pile. It didnt get powder coated. I didnt have it ready in time for the dash spraying. The tray, roll bar, steering column and column bracket still need to be painted body color.

buening · « **Reply #39 on:** July, 26, 2010, 05:08:49 AM »

Yeah I had to take a double-take with that picture of the sandblasted parts, as I saw the clutch and brake pedal there. They almost look like you painted them a stainless steel color. :lol

Good work on the progress Ryan. Do you do your own powdercoating, and if so are you pleased with the results?

RyanG85 · « **Reply #40 on:** July, 26, 2010, 05:15:46 AM »

I hired a part time painter to work out of my garage. He bought an old kitchen oven and HotCoat gun a few years back to do rims. He brought that stuff over to my shop(he was happy to get the mess outta his place). For the most part, the results are great. With the small oven, it takes some creative setting up to get everything mounted but worth it in the end