Author Topic: Vendors for Resistance Wires (Read 451 times)

Midlife · « **on:** September, 17, 2008, 04:54:00 PM »

I've been in touch with a possible vendor for the ignition resistance wire now for about two months, and finally got a quote today. I was led to believe the costs would be about $0.25/foot, including the fiber wrapped outer insulation. The minimum purchase is 500 feet of wire, and the cost was $2.58/foot, or nearly $1300. Another application is the bypass resistor for the alternator light circuit, and that line has different resistance values, so I was trying to get a wire to handle both applications. The wire would not be concours correct, as a pink color is not a standard insulation color. I finally threw in the towel, and I'm pursuing another vendor whose pricing structure is 5000' (yes, a mile!), or $500, whichever is greater.

Damn. This stuff is hard to find, is not carried on the shelf at all, and must be custom made to order. And now you can begin to understand why reproduction underdash harnesses are so expensive.

Fast68back · « **Reply #1 on:** September, 17, 2008, 06:39:22 PM »

You could always tie the flamingos down during the next hurricane with the leftover wire

70_Fastback · « **Reply #2 on:** September, 17, 2008, 06:42:22 PM »

Well, I can send you the 2' + that I cut out of my car. LoL.

Starfury · « **Reply #3 on:** September, 17, 2008, 10:58:02 PM »

Yeah, I'm tempted to yank mine out and give it to you:P

Outside of that, I'd suggest contacting Glazier's Mustang Barn. They do restorations all the time, so they have to have a supplier.

daveSanborn · « **Reply #4 on:** September, 18, 2008, 12:24:38 PM »

Quote

....why reproduction underdash harnesses are so expensive.

.... didn't you intend to say "why reproduction concours quality underdash harnesses....."

Painless et al aren't using these "resistance" wires are they?

70_Fastback · « **Reply #5 on:** September, 18, 2008, 12:56:42 PM »

Isn't the resistance wire just cutting down the voltage to 9-Volts (or so?)to the coil so it does not burn up the points?

If that's the case Randy, just apply the standard voltage drop calculation for DC currents. 12-V system will drop 25.58% or 3.07 Volts at 100' of #14-Awg wire assuming a constant load of 5 amps.

So just coil a shit ton of wire under the dash and call it good :jam

AzPete · « **Reply #6 on:** September, 18, 2008, 01:08:31 PM »

I always wondered what that ball of stuff was in the passenger floor board of Midlife. Now I know...

Midlife · « **Reply #7 on:** September, 18, 2008, 01:23:50 PM »

Quote from: 70_Fastback on September, 18, 2008, 12:56:42 PM

Isn't the resistance wire just cutting down the voltage to 9-Volts (or so?)to the coil so it does not burn up the points?

If that's the case Randy, just apply the standard voltage drop calculation for DC currents. 12-V system will drop 25.58% or 3.07 Volts at 100' of #14-Awg wire assuming a constant load of 5 amps.

So just coil a shit ton of wire under the dash and call it good :jam

Ahhh yes, but there's less than 1 amp of current going to the coil, so you'll need a good 500' of wire. With that length, I can simply plug in my A/C unit to the house electrical system and run around town just fine.

An alternative is to use a power resistor, but these get very hot and have to be hard-mounted (Craig: don't get too excited now!) so the chassis can be used as a heat sink.

I got a nice e-mail back from the vendor, stating that they like my idea of piggy-backing onto another's purchase to cut my costs, and will keep me in mind.

70_Fastback · « **Reply #8 on:** September, 19, 2008, 08:02:05 AM »

Quote from: Midlife on September, 18, 2008, 01:23:50 PM

Quote from: 70_Fastback on September, 18, 2008, 12:56:42 PM
Isn't the resistance wire just cutting down the voltage to 9-Volts (or so?)to the coil so it does not burn up the points?

If that's the case Randy, just apply the standard voltage drop calculation for DC currents. 12-V system will drop 25.58% or 3.07 Volts at 100' of #14-Awg wire assuming a constant load of 5 amps.

So just coil a shit ton of wire under the dash and call it good :jam
Ahhh yes, but there's less than 1 amp of current going to the coil, so you'll need a good 500' of wire. With that length, I can simply plug in my A/C unit to the house electrical system and run around town just fine.

An alternative is to use a power resistor, but these get very hot and have to be hard-mounted (Craig: don't get too excited now!) so the chassis can be used as a heat sink.

I got a nice e-mail back from the vendor, stating that they like my idea of piggy-backing onto another's purchase to cut my costs, and will keep me in mind.

Just coil it and but it in the back; then you can brag about the junk in your trunk. :dance