Author Topic: Steel Brake Line Help (Read 609 times)

95GT · « **on:** January, 05, 2010, 10:34:41 PM »

I am getting ready to order the new steel brake lines for my 69 project. When I went into the web site it looks like I can get factory style or stainless steel lines. What way should I go? I was told the stainless ones have a hard time sealing. Is this true? And the site also askes if I have 28 or 31 spline rear end. What difference would that make? I just want to order these right the first time. TIA

daveSanborn · « **Reply #1 on:** January, 06, 2010, 05:31:21 AM »

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factory style or stainless steel lines. What way should I go?

It is true that it's sometimes difficult to get the connections to seal on the new SS lines, but IMO the effort is worth it.

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if I have 28 or 31 spline rear end

There are some minor differences in the way the lines route/bend. If you're unsure which brake line kit you need, order both and return the un-used kit.

midpack · « **Reply #2 on:** January, 06, 2010, 05:49:09 AM »

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It is true that it's sometimes difficult to get the connections to seal on the new SS lines, but IMO the effort is worth it.

Just wondering, why do you think the SS ones are better? it's not like rubber hose vs. braided lines, I can see the benefit there. Or maybe if you're building a show car and have mirrors on the ground so people can see underneath...
The originals lasted 40 years and most of these cars will never see rain never mind snow...

Who else here has stainless lines?

RapidRabbit · « **Reply #3 on:** January, 06, 2010, 06:55:17 AM »

I just redid all my brake lines last year and I went with standard steel lines.
I just did not see the need for stainless.

daveSanborn · « **Reply #4 on:** January, 06, 2010, 09:06:33 AM »

Aside from SS lines "looking nicer", they've got to be more tolerant to corrosion than regular mild steel brake line tubing.

When you say that the regular lines lasted fine for 40 years, I'm not so sure about that. An easy way to determine the integrity of used brake lines is to place the line across the meat of your thigh and start bending. If the line bends, the tube wall thickness is probably still acceptable. If after 40-50 degrees the line starts to kink, the tube wall thickness has diminished/deteriorated due to corrosion. Remember that brake lines corrode from the inside out. By all outward appearances they could look fine, but the walls of the tubing could be paper thin and ready to rupture at the next hard application of the brake pedal.

Regardless of whether you're using new SS or new mild steel lines, replacing ALL of the brake lines during the rebuiding process is always a good idea.

67 evil eleanor · « **Reply #5 on:** January, 06, 2010, 01:11:02 PM »

I'm not sure that the brake lines made now are made out of the "same" material as they were in the 60's. Maybe its just me. Anyway, the differ in price is well worth the thoughts of not having to replace them again.

95GT · « **Reply #6 on:** January, 06, 2010, 01:56:55 PM »

Ok well it looks like the stainless lines are the way to go. As far as the 28 verses 31 spline goes I am going with the 31 spline. That is what I have for a rear end and the rubber line on the rear was ordered for a 428 car so since that is the case and 428 cars had 31 spline that is what I order the lines for. Thanks Guys

mach514 · « **Reply #7 on:** January, 06, 2010, 06:03:35 PM »

I had the same thoughts regarding stainless being the better choice but one word of caution if your car is not original and modified with 4 wheel disks and proportioning valves you will need to cut and reconfigure the lines to adapt and in that situation the plain steel is much better because it is soooo much easier to modify and re-flare. the stainless is a bitch to re-flare.

67 evil eleanor · « **Reply #8 on:** January, 06, 2010, 06:50:23 PM »

My experience is, unless you but the "roll" tubing, a hand held flair is not much punkin, the tube usually pushes through when trying to do a double. The roll stuff is more maleble, and easier to to fold (and don't forget the nuts). They are hydraulic tools available, but they are expensive.

johnpro · « **Reply #9 on:** January, 06, 2010, 07:48:45 PM »

Quote from: 95GT on January, 05, 2010, 10:34:41 PM

And the site also askes if I have 28 or 31 spline rear end. What difference would that make?

That makes no sense, whatsoever. The housing doesn't care if it it has a 28 spline or a 31 spline, nor does the differenential case. The only thing that cares is the gears and axles, themselves.

I went from a 28 spline 8" to a 31 spline 9" and re-used the same brake line.

I can't see where the number of splines could have any bearing on anything.

95GT · « **Reply #10 on:** January, 07, 2010, 12:25:51 AM »

Quote from: johnpro on January, 06, 2010, 07:48:45 PM

That makes no sense, whatsoever. The housing doesn't care if it it has a 28 spline or a 31 spline, nor does the differenential case. The only thing that cares is the gears and axles, themselves.

I went from a 28 spline 8" to a 31 spline 9" and re-used the same brake line.

I can't see where the number of splines could have any bearing on anything.

John the only thing i can think of is that the rubber line for a 428 car is different than the rest. I am thinking it has a different offset mounting on the rear end housing so maybe the lines are a bit different. Since the rear I am using is a 428 housing I will buy the 31 spline set up.

daveSanborn · « **Reply #11 on:** January, 07, 2010, 06:59:12 AM »

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the tube usually pushes through when trying to do a double.

To prevent this I position the end of the brake line into the tool..... place the entire tool into my bench vise..... and then tighten the snot out of the flaring tool's wingnuts with a set of vise grip pliers. Since doing it this way I've had no more issues with the tube sliding out of the the tool when trying to create the double flare.

cmayna · « **Reply #12 on:** January, 07, 2010, 07:21:28 AM »

I had to do some custom tubing when installing the SSBC prop valve up front. Thus I just cut and bent and required and then took the lines down to my local Napa Auto store and they flared the ends for $2.50 each. This included the long line going to the back.

Neglected68 · « **Reply #13 on:** January, 07, 2010, 05:09:14 PM »

Quote from: johnpro on January, 06, 2010, 07:48:45 PM

That makes no sense, whatsoever. The housing doesn't care if it it has a 28 spline or a 31 spline, nor does the differenential case. The only thing that cares is the gears and axles, themselves.

I went from a 28 spline 8" to a 31 spline 9" and re-used the same brake line.

I can't see where the number of splines could have any bearing on anything.

Just a guess, completely unresearched, but could the 28 vs 31 spline difference indicate different factory setups for the exhaust system? The exhaust pipe routing could be different from single vs dual exhaust. From the factory, perhaps the 31 spline cars only came with certain engine/ exhaust combos.

95GT · « **Reply #14 on:** January, 09, 2010, 09:16:46 AM »

Ok I found out what the difference is between the 31 and 28 spline brake lines. The 31 spline came on the Boss302 and 428 CJ cars. The rubber brake line is different on these cars because of the way the exhaust runs. It is positioned in a different location than the rest of the cars. So the hard brakes had to be made a bit different to fit. So when I ordered my lines I had to order the 31 spline lines.

SELLERSRODSHOP · « **Reply #15 on:** January, 13, 2010, 11:51:22 PM »

Quote from: daveSanborn on January, 07, 2010, 06:59:12 AM

To prevent this I position the end of the brake line into the tool..... place the entire tool into my bench vise..... and then tighten the snot out of the flaring tool's wingnuts with a set of vise grip pliers. Since doing it this way I've had no more issues with the tube sliding out of the the tool when trying to create the double flare.

i'll second that advice. thats how do all my lines & never have a problem..