Rear disc brake help

[pnandy]

i've decided that when i add the front power disc brakes i want to do put disc brakes  on the rears to. I was looking at these used brake kits can anyone see why this wouldn't work and what i would need to do to get it to work i don't wanna spend a too much for the rears i will replace the rotors and pads on this kit tho any help is apreciated http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-1973-MUSTANG-REAR-DISC-BRAKES-65-66-67-71-BRAKE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46104QQihZ004QQitemZ140264421356QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

By the way i will be adding disc brake swaps front 4 piston power disc brake setup to my 68 fastback,... rear end is small bearing ford 9 inch

[Starfury]

CSRP doesn't have a 4-piston disc swap for 68's.  The KH 4-piston calipers were only used on 65-67's.  68's use a single piston sliding caliper.  I don't believe the KH style setup will bolt to the '68 spindles.  I may be wrong, but I'd recommend calling CSRP before ordering anything.

[daveSanborn]

Even at the BIN price, the rear disc brake kit seems like a fairly good price.

With these pieces, is there a provision for an emergency brake?  I can't make anything out from the one picture...

I assume the large circular "backing plates" also serve as the mount for the caliper?

The use of 4 wheel disc brakes will necessitate the use of a 4 wheel disc brake master cylinder.... or at a minumum an adjustable prop valve.

[pnandy]

CSRP doesn't have a 4-piston disc swap for 68's.  The KH 4-piston calipers were only used on 65-67's.  68's use a single piston sliding caliper.  I don't believe the KH style setup will bolt to the '68 spindles.  I may be wrong, but I'd recommend calling CSRP before ordering anything.

I Called csrp and they said it would bolt up to the 68 spindles he recomended using this swap to as the other ones require changing out the spindles and affect the turning radius of the car afterwards.

[Starfury]

Oh, fair enough.  I stand corrected:)  I love my KH-style CSRP kit, so if it'll bolt to your spindles, go for it!

[pnandy]

Great to know

Anyone have anythingto say about the rear kit besides

Dave

Also what parts if any that aren't included in the rear disc brake kit listed above will i need to finish off the 4 wheel disc brake system?

[pnandy]

Even at the BIN price, the rear disc brake kit seems like a fairly good price.

With these pieces, is there a provision for an emergency brake?  I can't make anything out from the one picture...

I assume the large circular "backing plates" also serve as the mount for the caliper?

The use of 4 wheel disc brakes will necessitate the use of a 4 wheel disc brake master cylinder.... or at a minumum an adjustable prop valve.

Dave what type of master cylider would i need to get or where can i get it from so i can use the four wheel disc brakes?  I believe the backing plate works as the emergency brake will the csrp power swap 1 kit come with a master cylinder that will work with this

[pnandy]

Oh, fair enough.  I stand corrected:)  I love my KH-style CSRP kit, so if it'll bolt to your spindles, go for it!

http://www.discbrakeswap.com/Mustang%20Disc%20Brake%20Conversion%20Kits%20SWAP1.html
Check out the swap one prices page it just says that it orgianlly came on the 65-67 mustangs but 65-73 mustangs will work with the kit

[daveSanborn]

Also what parts if any that aren't included in the rear disc brake kit listed above will i need to finish off the 4 wheel disc brake system?

It's hard to tell from the one picture provided in the auction listing, but it looks like all of the items necessary are there.  The big problem I see is connecting OEM emergency brake cables.... they'll have to connect to the calipers in order to work.... connecting to the backing plate won't do any good.

A 4W disc master cylinder can be purchased from NPD if I'm not mistaken.  Rod&Custom MotorSports also sells one.  In theory, a proportioning valve should be able to equalize the pressure of most any OEM master cylinder in order to balance the braking pressure to the front and rear wheels.  You'll want more brake pressure to go to the front tires than the rear.  Rear braking is more of a "stabilizing" brake action.... designed to prevent the rearend from coming around on you as the momentum shifts to the front of the car during hard braking.

Make sure your original "residual valve" is removed from your rear brake line.  The stock residual valves purpose is to maintain a lesser amount of pressure on the rear brake supply line... not someting you'd want when switching to rear discs.

You'll probably have to fab some connections for the rear flex lines to the existing rearend housings hard lines.... nothing to difficult to overcome.

The big thing really is the Ebrake....

[pnandy]

i think the ebake is cable controls similiar to the drums in that it uses shoes like this kit look at the backing plate they are brake shoeshttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Racing-M-2300-G-5-Lug-Rear-Disc-Brake-Kit-JEGS_W0QQitemZ200252271252QQihZ010QQcategoryZ46093QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

[daveSanborn]

That makes more sense!  I was wondering why the rotors had such big "hats"..... what's not visible in the auction photo are the internal Ebrake shoes that are attached to the backing plates.  His bad photo could reduce the number of bidders on this item.  The "internal" parking brake feature is a common factory design.

[pnandy]

ok I didn't know they made e brake shoes for disc brakes i thought it might have been parts from a drum set or smthn at first. Hopefully i will have four wheel disc brakes soon. and hopefully no one on STANGFIX bids on it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

I was looking at the csrp swap one kit and he says i can ask for the disc/disc master cylinder instead. So while im already going to be under the car for probably a whole weekend should i replace all the brake lines how hard would this be and how much

[daveSanborn]

So while im already going to be under the car for probably a whole weekend should i replace all the brake lines how hard would this be and how much

Not only is this a good "while I'm at it" project, this should be high on the priority list for every classic Mustang owner still sporting around town with 45 year old mild steel original factory brake lines.

There are two ways to change out the lines:

Buy the pre-bent lines with the proper fittings installed.  This works out great for someone working on a stock car and maintaining factory brake component configuration.

or....

Buy a 25' roll of 3/16ths mild steel line for approx. $25.  Buy a tubing cutter for under $5.  Loan-A-Tool a brake line flaring kit from one of the local parts houses.  Determine and then buy the appropriate number of brake line fittings (under $1 apiece).  With just a little bit of practice, inverted double flares can be easily made by the average back yard mechanic.  New lines can easily be cut, bent and made to fit any "custom" configuration (such as what you'll need).

Brake lines corrode moreso from the inside out.  If you've ever bled your brakes and seen a "brownish" colored fluid coming out of the bleeder port, this is evidence of brake line corrosion and eventually the walls of the brake lines will become so thin that a leak/break will develop/occur.  I strongly encourage anyone driving their classic Mustang to put "installing new brake lines" high on their priority list.

[pnandy]

Ok since I'll be taking it to a local muffler shop mechanic friend to put it on a lift when we do the disc brakes it should be really easy to make my own lines i think.

I feel like dave just keeps adding projects to my list of things not a bad thing it just delays my my paint as i want to finish everything before paint as its a long drive from Whittier CA to Monterey Ca where my mustang collector/restorer  is Last time i was up there I forgot to take pics as i was too busy trying not to fall off the roofs of the mustangs we had to climb over to get to ones deep within the lot(fastback roofs can be pretty slippery)

[daveSanborn]

i was too busy trying not to fall off the roofs of the mustangs

So you're "THAT GUY"..... the guy that I've cursed sideways at everytime I've spent hours upon hours.... days upon days.... weeks upon weeks..... quenching, hammering and fine tuning multiple roof dents on every single freakin' classic Mustang I've ever worked on.

I have many names for you, but trust me, none of them are "pnandy".

LMAO

[pnandy]

how else can you get past the them we did pop out the roofs that caved in so the water wouldn't settle and rust they fastback were lined up centimeters apart most were touching he we each had a rubber mallet to pop out dents most of the fastback s didn't have windows so you could walk on the sides of them at that lot they were lined up 9x9 pretty amazing at another lot that was covered he had them lined up like 10x4 with a big open space in the middle with a real 1968gt500 that needs to be restored its a cool place to go find get a rusty shell(most are east cost mustangs he bought 10+ years ago and hoped the fastback would apreciate or just look around its in Monterey, ca

[pnandy]

looks like someone did the buy it now damn oh well hey would it be alright if i put a disc /disc master cylinder on the car while i have disc/drums for awhile it would be less then a year they will be power brakes to

[Fast68back]

I have the explorer kit on my car, you can see the discs and the e-brakes in these pics

[pnandy]

ok so i found out about 98 crown vic rear disc brakes and that they will fit my small bearing 9 inch rear end only problem is i need a spacer i've heard people sell them but i cant find them anyone know where i can get a set? heres link to how to make the spacer and add the disc brake setup http://forums.stangnet.com/717933-crown-vic-rear-discs.html