Author Topic: Angrypony is still cranking (Read 1010 times)

68angrypony · « **Reply #25 on:** December, 03, 2009, 10:43:10 PM »

I did the bypass and no go. Basically the Right (firewall side) large post and the left small post S have no juice no matter what I do. I have two starter solenoids and tried both with the same result. I voltmetered the bypass and I'm good with juice from female to female. I have no idea why I can't show any voltage anytime or any key postion from the S terminal or the rightside large post...... any last thoughts?

tarafied1 · « **Reply #26 on:** December, 03, 2009, 11:18:31 PM »

okay, sorry it's not female to female. Looked at the wiring diagram. The connection is heterosexual, it's the two blue/red wires, one male and one female. Looks like yours are painted, might need a little paint thinner to clean them off or just make two jumpers.

68angrypony · « **Reply #27 on:** December, 04, 2009, 12:23:11 AM »

You sir solved it. I ripped apart the dash and ignition area and tested all the wires with the volt meter. The female to female didn't do anything. As soon as I read your last post I tried it and finally the key turned the engine :craz Thank you all for everything. I would have never figured it out without the assitance of all of you. Thank you once again.

Fast68back · « **Reply #28 on:** December, 04, 2009, 05:39:00 AM »

Sweeeeeeeet.... Actually the female/male connections make more sense if you think about it...sorry I steered you wrong.

tarafied1 · « **Reply #29 on:** December, 04, 2009, 03:38:58 PM »

glad we could help, it feels good to help out another Stang Banger!

68angrypony · « **Reply #30 on:** December, 05, 2009, 01:56:38 PM »

Thank you all again.

Now I am going to have to replace the distributor and I am hoping to get it to fully start with the key. Then all I need to do is hook up the drive shaft, find a throttle return spring for my edelbrock, hook up the gas pedal, Figure out how to redo the drum brakes, get a brake master cylinder, figure out how to put tranny fluid in the t-10, and I should be able to move it around the yard.

I need to find a radiator to eventually because I know its not all that good to be idling moving the car with no radiator lol. The stock 68 is completely gunked from sitting for 20 years. I need to find a new radiator or figure out how to clean out the 68 to use for now.

Midlife · « **Reply #31 on:** December, 05, 2009, 03:24:28 PM »

Make sure the tranny fluid is 90W, not automagic tranny fluid!

tarafied1 · « **Reply #32 on:** December, 05, 2009, 03:33:40 PM »

sounds like it's getting closer!

daveSanborn · « **Reply #33 on:** December, 07, 2009, 06:01:28 AM »

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tranny fluid in the t-10

You mentioned earlier that this car was being built to take to the drag strip. Understand that the T-10 is the weakest possible transmission that will bolt up to your 351 Cleveland. The T-10 was not used behind any of the higher rated HP motor options and never behind a Cleveland. If you get the tires to stick on a hard launch.... you may want to have a trailer standing by to get the car home.

68angrypony · « **Reply #34 on:** December, 07, 2009, 08:35:01 AM »

So then that means I would need to find a top loader? what are good 5 and 6 speed tranny's? World class t-5's? t-56's?

daveSanborn · « **Reply #35 on:** December, 08, 2009, 06:01:45 AM »

Quote

I would need to find a top loader? what are good 5 and 6 speed tranny's? World class t-5's? t-56's?

Yes, yes and yes.... with the Toploader probably being the strongest for the least amount of money.

If this car is being slapped together mostly for strip runs, I stongly recommend an automatic transmission instead of a manual. There's no worse feeling than hitting third gear at 60 MPH and having the rearend break loose causing the car to get squirrely on you.