Author Topic: Help me with rack n pinion (Read 487 times)

Dne' · « **on:** November, 19, 2009, 02:55:06 PM »

I had the exhaust installed and sounds so nice!

Next door to the muffler guy, a mechanic/owner which is in process of building a shelby cobra came over to look at my stang. He had nothing but good comments to say~ while he was there, I asked him about my toe out that I feel is too much and he agreed! at that point, my tie rods were only on the threaded portion by 1/2" and obviously toed out a great deal. Sorry I didn't take actual measurement, but it was obvious to me and the mechanic.

Right now the camber of the wheels are as positive as the eccentric will allow them to be. When the camber is put more to the desired setting this will put the tie rod holes out even further!

I measured the rack(without tie rods on) and came up with 40 5/8".
With the wheels pointed staight ahead, the tie rod hole to tie rod hole length is 47.5"
The tie rods are 3.5" long(from the end of the thread to the grease fitting).

The mechanic said that I'd be better off with a bumpsteer kit as it would solve my problem and put more threads to adjust toe.

Flaming river really didn't have a response other than take as many photos and they'll evaluate the problem. Seems pretty easy to access that either the tie rods aren't long enough.

what do ya''l think??
dne'

Sluggo · « **Reply #1 on:** November, 19, 2009, 03:46:13 PM »

A picture would be quite helpful.

How long is the adjusting sleeve?

Dne' · « **Reply #2 on:** November, 19, 2009, 06:49:46 PM »

The photos were taken with my iphone and may not come out very large.
How long is the adjusting sleeve? The tie rod is 4" in length, or 3.5" from end of threads to the grease fitting. They have a female thread that's approximately 2" in depth. The long threaded "inner tie rod" turns to adjust toe. The tie rod internal thread is rather limited. I hope this helps.

Quote from: Sluggo on November, 19, 2009, 03:46:13 PM

A picture would be quite helpful.

How long is the adjusting sleeve?

Dne' · « **Reply #3 on:** November, 20, 2009, 06:41:20 AM »

As it stands right now, the camber is at maximum(noticably leaning outward). When the lower control arm is adjusted for desired camber, the lower control arm will be moved outward making the tie rod holes even further apart.
*Toe was set straight ahead @ 59" (measurement taken with car on the ground, tie rods disconnected) measuring from the center of the tires with no difference of measurements between front and back of the tires).

With the car on the floor, wheels set at 0 toe~ from tie rod hole to tie rod hole, I get a measurement of 47"
basic note sent to flaming river.

**The last two photo are probably the most important or that make the most sense to me:
1) The two tie rods are laid out on the floor with the center of the tie rods at 47" (keep in mind this measurement was obtained with the wheels of the Mustang at 0 toe)(same as measurement of tie rod hole to tie rod hole)
2) The length of the rack n pinion from end to end is 40.75". With the measuring tape I get 40 1/4" from opening to opening of the tie rods. The inner tie rods need to be screwed onto the outter tie rods at least an 1" for safety. In doing so would put it at 42.25" which is not possible cause the rack in only 40.25"!

Remedy: longer tie rods with longer thread? or someone told me about a bumpsteer kit?

Dne' · « **Reply #4 on:** November, 20, 2009, 07:15:24 AM »

I spoke with a salesman at Flaming river(not tech) and explained the problem. He was much more understanding than the tech! He said I just needed the longer 5" tie rods and that would take care of the problem! He's sending them at no charge and should be here next week!
Just little obstacles to overcome! :craz

Sluggo · « **Reply #5 on:** November, 20, 2009, 07:49:54 AM »

I agree with the salesman. Those are way too short.

gotstang · « **Reply #6 on:** November, 20, 2009, 09:00:52 AM »

A real, live FR rack? I thought all of those ended up in the dumpster 5 years ago. Let us know how it drives. Not to be a negative nancy, but if they have actually FIXED it, I'd be shocked

Rorin67 · « **Reply #7 on:** November, 20, 2009, 10:38:08 AM »

Quote from: gotstang on November, 20, 2009, 09:00:52 AM

A real, live FR rack? I thought all of those ended up in the dumpster 5 years ago. Let us know how it drives. Not to be a negative nancy, but if they have actually FIXED it, I'd be shocked

+1

Although I had installation nightmares with my old manual FR rack (solely because of the clutch Z-bar), it did work quite well. If I had an automatic tranny, I would have to say that the installation was a piece of cake. And once installed the rack gave great road feel. I replaced it mainly because I wanted a power rack. I even tried to sell the used FR R&P for a while and nobody - and I mean "NOBODY" - wanted it...

Dne' · « **Reply #8 on:** November, 22, 2009, 08:17:42 AM »

If I had it to do over again, I think I would have just stuck with the stock manual steering! However, the bolting up of the rack to the frame wasn't too bad. I hated dealing with the universal joints that lead up to the steering column. overall I did a pretty good job. I've only driven it out to the street to be loaded on a wrecker, and the steering was effortless, no ps noise, I do have a couple drops of ps fluid that was on the ground beneath the rack~ I'm worried about that cause it's not so easy to even look at much less service if something is wrong. However, the left head is off right now and will probably be another week before I have it running again! I'll post more after I get it up and running again.
dne'