Anyone know how to make Dynamite sticks?

[tarafied1]

My right rear sequential dynamite stick quit working, they are pretty old. New ones are over $100. Anybody know how to make one?

[66gt350]

A few household chemicals in the correct proportion and viola chemical equivalent of dynamite.  Being a chemical engineer that's the only dynamite sticks I know how to make. :craz

[tarafied1]

 :craz thanks

[gotstang]

Craig, I have no idea how in the he!! they work, but I could probably cobble up an electronic circut to do it.

Edit: On second thought, I know exactly how they work...it's just a bunch of inverter gates. Crap, that's ten bucks at radio shack.

Edited edit: I can start working on a circuit and a parts list if you're interested?

Edit numero tres: Google did most of the design work for me. The freakin box to mount it in would cost more than the parts. :rofl

Edit number eleventybillion: $100 would buy you parts for a pair, boxes to put them in, and a couple cases of beer. :D

[AzPete]

Is this like the original parts ...

http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/Catalog_retail.PDF

[apollard]

Here's a circuit for a 3 segment sequencer I built for my LED taillights. I sued P channel mosfets instead of the relays.

Not sure how many segments you need to replace the sticks, but it would be easy to add more timers (just duplicate the circuit for more segments)

http://www.gofastforless.com/electrical/lights.htm

[tarafied1]

Is this like the original parts ...

http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/Catalog_retail.PDF

Pete,
Page 12, thats what I have. One is fried, new set is $100+

Gotstang,

$100 would buy you parts for a pair, boxes to put them in, and a couple cases of beer. :D

That's what I was thinking!

apollard,
I can't read this stuff:

anything for electrical dummys like buy circut board part # xxx and little round thingy part # xyz and connect it to the red wire?

[gotstang]

anything for electrical dummys like buy circut board part # xxx and little round thingy part # xyz and connect it to the red wire?

Hehe...for $200, sure. otherwise, you'd have to pick which way to skin that cat and some stuff and a couple 555 timer chips and start soldering.  :ecit

apollard is probably right choosing FETs, that would be simple as all get out and very 21st century.  :craz

[tarafied1]

FET's? If I walk into Radio Shack and ask for a handful of FET's what will I get? (I know, a hand full of FET's but what is an FET?)

[gotstang]

FET's? If I walk into Radio Shack and ask for a handful of FET's what will I get? (I know, a hand full of FET's but what is an FET?)

You won't get anything because it's not a cell phone plan, they don't know how to sell it to you. :rofl

a FET is a Field Effect Transistor...MOSFETS are used in car speaker amps, but FETs work well for a LOT of other things, memory serves they can handle a lot more current draw w/o a relay, as compared to regular transistors and that's their big advantage.


I can almost read that schematic, it's a wee bit scribbly for my blind arse. :rofl I can help you come up with a parts list if you'd need it, and/or build them. I haven't burnt myself with a soldering iron recently. :rofl

[tarafied1]

You won't get anything because it's not a cell phone plan, they don't know how to sell it to you. :rofl

a FET is a Field Effect Transistor...MOSFETS are used in car speaker amps, but FETs work well for a LOT of other things, memory serves they can handle a lot more current draw w/o a relay, as compared to regular transistors and that's their big advantage.


I can almost read that schematic, it's a wee bit scribbly for my blind arse. :rofl I can help you come up with a parts list if you'd need it, and/or build them. I haven't burnt myself with a soldering iron recently. :rofl

I need your help (if that hasn't been obvious  :cry) I can solder but I have no idea about MOSFETS and FETs and where to get them. Any help will be greatly appreciated and compensated. I should only need one side right? How much we talking?  :$$$

[apollard]

apollard,
I can't read this stuff:

anything for electrical dummys like buy circut board part # xxx and little round thingy part # xyz and connect it to the red wire?

I've never seen a kit. I can solder you one up, probably $15 in parts. Let me know. Mine's been running nearly a year now. Of course, the car hasn't moved for 3 months of that time :cry

[daveSanborn]

a FET is a Field Effect Transistor...MOSFETS are used in car speaker amps, but FETs work well for a LOT of other things, memory serves they can handle a lot more current draw w/o a relay, as compared to regular transistors and that's their big advantage.

My ignorance sometimes amazes me....  It's as if you guys are speaking in a foreign language.

[gotstang]

Well, I'm still working on it...and trying to figure out what the hell was up with the guy that wrote that diagram. I expected to see transistors, and I think he skipped em and ran the lights straight off the timer via a relay, which seems a little odd.

So, I'm going to try skipping the relays and using MOSFETs, not only is it geekier, its a whole lot cheaper. :rofl

Dave, don't feel bad. I don't know what I'm doing, google and textbooks are what got me this far.

[apollard]

OK, scanner crapped out, so here's a pos MS paint version. I used STP12PF06 MOSFETS. If you're running bulbs, mount them on a small heatsink. The 'on' resistance of these is small, but they will heat up with a few amps running through them (I'm running homebuilt LEDs, so no heatsink needed). The 1K resistors are used to pull the gate of the MOSFET up. Not stictly necessary with a 556, but I always do it.

Not sure if you can get a good MOSFET like this local - I live in Charlotte, and no dice. I ordered from Newark. Alternatively, just use the relays, they last forever, BUT, I would add a reverse diode across them to protect the 556. Don't use a 7556, they are too touchy for our electrical systems- ask me how I know.

Leave the 100k pots accessible so they can be adjusted to give the same rate side to side.

[lethal289]

My ignorance sometimes amazes me....  It's as if you guys are speaking in a foreign language.

Yep, im convinced there is no english in this thread! One question...  is a dynamite stick?

[gotstang]

OK, scanner crapped out, so here's a pos MS paint version. I used STP12PF06 MOSFETS. If you're running bulbs, mount them on a small heatsink. The 'on' resistance of these is small, but they will heat up with a few amps running through them (I'm running homebuilt LEDs, so not heatsink needed). The 1K resistors are used to pull the gate of the MOSFET up. Not stictly necessary with a 556, but I always do it.

Not sure you can get a good MOSFET like this local - I live in Charlotte, and no dice. I ordered from Newark. Alternatively, just use the relays, they last forever, BUT, I would add a reverse diode across them to protect the 556. Don't use a 7556, they are too touchy for our electrical systems- ask me how I know.

Leave the 100k pots accessible so they can be adjusted to give the same rate side to side.

Wow, great, thanks man! One really dumb question, did you use power resistors or plain quarter watt jobs?

PS: What are the funny looking symbols like the ones coming off of #3 and #11 of the timer? Is that supposed to be a diode symbol? I never could read that, even in the original drawing.

[AzPete]

One question...  is a dynamite stick?

Original name form the turn signal electrical sequencing device in the 60's Ford products...........

[apollard]

Wow, great, thanks man! One really dumb question, did you use power resistors or plain quarter watt jobs?

PS: What are the funny looking symbols like the ones coming off of #3 and #11 of the timer? Is that supposed to be a diode symbol? I never could read that, even in the original drawing.

I used basic 1/2 watt carbon film, cause that's what I had. Not much current flowing in any of these resistors, 1/4 watt should be fine.

Pins #3 & #11 are connected to ground through a .01uf capacitor; they are the control voltage pins for the timer. If they are not used, they should be bypassed to ground with a .01 uf cap. You often see them left open, but that can lead to false triggering in the timer (especially in the noisy environment of a car). Any .01 uf cap will do, I used ceramic.

Oh, make sure all the caps are rated 25V - a 16V might short out if a voltage spike comes along.

[tarafied1]

thanks for the help guys, I too have no idea what your saying! I found this article that I kinda understand (it's old). Does it help?

[apollard]

thanks for the help guys, I too have no idea what your saying! I found this article that I kinda understand (it's old). Does it help?

Hmmm. Never thought about using SCRs; slick little circuit. Could probably use MOSFETs the same way. I'll have to look into it.

Any bigger files? I printed these, but they are hard to read from the d/l off the gallery. I can't read the designation of D1 & D2. It looks like D13D1 on my print, but I can't find that in any part cross reference. I think they are a zener diode, but not sure.

EDIT: OK, I think D1/D2 might be DIACs. Although, there are very few that operate in the 12V or less range. If you can tell me the GE # on those, it might help.

[tarafied1]

will this help?

[gotstang]

Wow, that's pretty slick. At the risk of sounding like I'm jumping on the bandwagon, I actually thought of SCRs as one of my first ideas. Gave up on it because I knew I wouldn't know WTF to do with them. :rofl

I'm bashing out a schematic for  a MOSFET circuit, nice and pretty in CAD (thanks apollard!!). Only thing I haven't figured out is how to (easily) make the brake lights come on solid, but on second thought, I don't even know if they are supposed to be that way??

[gotstang]

oops

[apollard]

Yep. I can't find the part # they are referencing, but they are calling it a silicon unilateral switch. Google tells me that is an older form of DIAC. None of those in the parts box and damn few show up in that voltage range, although they aren't expensive so I might just order a few to have around. I might try to prototype something with a zener diode instead since I have a few SCRs and Zeners (hey, I'm intrigued now). Unfortunately, tomorrow is work on the MIL's car day