Author Topic: Hows your front end stance? (Read 3187 times)

lethal289 · « **on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:10:19 PM »

Currently im using these:
http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.asp?pn=CS8330 They are stock replacement 260# coil spring.

Recently i ordered these:
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=GT515+01 They are a 1" lowering, 620# spring. Who knows, i may have to cut them to bring my front end down, but thats one of the reasons why i went with the much heavier rating.

I would really like to hear from you guys how you got your perfect stance up front. What springs what set up, Did you cut / alter anything.

tarafied1 · « **Reply #1 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:14:05 PM »

first I started by adding a 700 lb big block (that still didn't lower the stock 289 coils enough), then I did the 1" lower UCA thing and finally cut a 1/4 of a coil off the stock springs. She's low, low but I like it!

Fast68back · « **Reply #2 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:20:56 PM »

620 grab-a-trac's, upper control arms lowered, roller perches, maier racing upper and lower arms, street or track strut rods, bilstein shocks, maier racing shock tower brace, no other mods.

17X8 225 40, no issues with tires rubbin, but my fender lips are all but non-existent...

lethal289 · « **Reply #3 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:23:04 PM »

One thing i should also mention to this thread, what size tire and wheel combo up front. Any issues? I hope a lot of people reply to this. It would be nice for future research for Newbies. :craz

Sluggo · « **Reply #4 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:24:19 PM »

620 1 inch drop coils with the Arning drop. Thinking about losing 1/2 coil.

tarafied1 · « **Reply #5 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:29:50 PM »

okay, I forgot to include Grab-A-Track gas shocks, ORP roller perches, 16x7's" with 4" BS and 205/50/16's on the front.

lethal289 · « **Reply #6 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:33:39 PM »

Thats may end up being one of my problems, Its kinda why ive left the front end up so long. Just to ignore it. I have 15 x 8s all the way around, and i really dont want any rubbing issues. I had all intention of buying 15x7's but while at summit, the dude showed me how his computer "recommended" the 8's. Damn i wish i would have went with my gut on that one.

edit: they have a 4.5" backspacing. I wonder if i should consider lowering the control arms. but first i guess ill see how it looks with the springs.

Fast68back · « **Reply #7 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:36:27 PM »

I dont think the 8" rim is gonna be an issue. Did you tighten everything before the motor went in? You could loosen everything up and let it settle/bounce it a few times and see how it settles. We like givin ya crap Jake, but we also wanna help you.

lethal289 · « **Reply #8 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:40:53 PM »

Yep, you brought that up before, and i tried it then to no avail. I wonder if stripping off all that cast iron could of done something. I wouldn't think so.

Quote from: Fast68back on November, 11, 2009, 06:36:27 PM

We like givin ya crap Jake, but we also wanna help you.

Thanks rick!! But i get enough at work! :rofl :rofl

RapidRabbit · « **Reply #9 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:47:18 PM »

I have the 620 grab a track coils up front with about 1/4 coil cut off. Grab a track stock style control arms with the upper arm drop. Wheels are 17" with 225/45/17 tires. I put the whole set up in about a year ago and I was hoping it would settle a bit more.

still sits too high for me.

tarafied1 · « **Reply #10 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:49:12 PM »

The Arning/Shelby drop doesn't do much, maybe a 1/4", I think a lot of guys run 8" rims on the front. In fact when I get wider rims for the back I'm putting my 17x8's from the back on the front.

Starfury · « **Reply #11 on:** November, 11, 2009, 06:58:52 PM »

I'm running the 620 Grab-A-Trak 1" drop coils, which are actually 560lb/in. The "620" comes from the wire diameter, which is .620".

Stance was pretty good with cast iron heads. Trick Flows went on a couple months ago and lifted the front end maybe 1/2". I plan on cutting the coils down, but I'll wait until I get the proper sized wheels on the car first.

lethal289 · « **Reply #12 on:** November, 11, 2009, 07:01:26 PM »

Quote from: Starfury on November, 11, 2009, 06:58:52 PM

Stance was pretty good with cast iron heads. Trick Flows went on a couple months ago and lifted the front end maybe 1/2".

Is that all you changed was the heads? Intake? Anything else?

Im using edelbrock heads, performer intake, Edelbrock water pump, MSD billet distributor, Griffin Radiator, Maybe it did lift the front end 1" maybe 1.5".

lethal289 · « **Reply #13 on:** November, 11, 2009, 07:05:24 PM »

Quote from: Starfury on November, 11, 2009, 06:58:52 PM

I'm running the 620 Grab-A-Trak 1" drop coils, which are actually 560lb/in. The "620" comes from the wire diameter, which is .620".

Sure about that, it clearly states in the add "COIL SPRINGS PAIR GRAB-A-TRAK 620LB 67/73 MUSTANG"

Fast68back · « **Reply #14 on:** November, 11, 2009, 07:11:23 PM »

Here is the difference in the stock and 620 springs

tarafied1 · « **Reply #15 on:** November, 11, 2009, 07:16:48 PM »

My dad put 620's that were supposed to lower the car on his 66 with a 289ish (306 - .030" over 289 block, 302 crank and early 351 heads) and it raised the front even though the coils were as pictured (shorter). He had to cut some off. I think they are more "stiff" and held the nose up.

cmayna · « **Reply #16 on:** November, 11, 2009, 07:21:08 PM »

620 coils from Mustangs +
Shelby drop
205/15 front,,,,,225/15 rear
ORP roller perches

lethal289 · « **Reply #17 on:** November, 11, 2009, 07:23:18 PM »

Craig 1, how wide are your wheels up front? Did you do anything to the fenders?

1497 · « **Reply #18 on:** November, 11, 2009, 07:52:11 PM »

On the '68, I used 390-520 progressive spring from Pro-Motorsports and cut 1/2 a coil off. Still a little high but alignment isn't set to spec yet. I put 225/60-15 BFG's on 15x7 magnums on the front and the sidewall hits the UCA on one side. Swapped them with the rear 14x6's w/205/70-14 from the Shelby so I can move the '68 around. Probably will keep both cars as they are. I like the fat tires on the '66.

Opentracker · « **Reply #19 on:** November, 11, 2009, 08:39:01 PM »

[member]

Man, ride height is one of my fovorite things to work on. It makes the car IMO. I'll work and work to get 1/4" of ride height change. When I get the car done, I park it on a flat surface, walk away from it about 40ft and turn around. My first thought is what I got with. I've done the rear springs on my 66 coup 4 times and it's still not right. I worked on the Mule for over a year redoing the rear springs to get it right. I love it best becouse it's a free mod. We do the 1" upper arm drop to everything we own exept the cars I won't drill holes into. We run our 480lb GT spring on the early cars and our 560lb spring on the later cars. I've never bought leaf springs for any of our cars. I do dumpster diving at the restoration shops and get the ones they toss out to make my own leaf pack. More on that below.

...........65-66 620 1" drop coil ........ 67-73 620 1" drop coil ........ Stock coil 67-73...........

The 620 springs are a 560lb spring. If you put them on a test machine, they come out between 560lb and 575lb. That's why we call them a 560 on our web site.

I can spend as much time getting the ride height the way I want as it does to change motors. The front is pretty much just cutting coils but that can take a lot of time if you cut 1/8 to 1/4 coil at a time. I've learned how to coils while they are still in the car, that saves a lot of time.

The rear is a lot harder. I don't use lowering blocks ever. I rebuild leaf springs to get the ride height and spring rate I want. Here is some info on that. ( http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/544275-lowering-rear-car-w-o-blocks-long.html ).

Getting the tires to fit right is another story. The backspacing has to be right and the fender lip has to be removed or rolled to get the look I like. A wheel with 4.25" of backspacing fits with no mods to the upper arm. If you grind on the ball joint dome a bit, you can use a wheel with 4.50" of backspacing. On my next project I'm using a wheel with 4.75" of backspacing. The ball joint dome is cut back and braced, looks like this.

To me stance is it, the car doesn't even have to run strong, as long as it looks cool.

[/member]

lethal289 · « **Reply #20 on:** November, 11, 2009, 08:48:29 PM »

Thanks John

Quote

A wheel with 4.25" of backspacing fits with no mods to the upper arm. If you grind on the ball joint dome a bit, you can use a wheel with 4.50" of backspacing. On my next project I'm using a wheel with 4.75" of backspacing. The ball joint dome is cut back and braced, looks like this.

That back spacing, is that true for 65 on? I thought 67's didnt have an issue 4.5" spacing. At least i haven't noticed anything rubbing.

tarafied1 · « **Reply #21 on:** November, 11, 2009, 09:17:28 PM »

Quote

To me stance is it, the car doesn't even have to run strong, as long as it looks cool.

agreed!

70_Fastback · « **Reply #22 on:** November, 12, 2009, 06:36:20 AM »

Fronts are:
Wheel: American Racing Torq Thrust M 17" x 8" with 4.5" BS
Tire: 245/40/17

Original stock springs with 1+ full revolution cut off. New OEM lower arms. 1" front sway bar, ORP (special GO) roller perches. That's it.

I even have my fender lips intact, though they are scary close, but have never rubbed once yet. And I check often.

Opentracker · « **Reply #23 on:** November, 12, 2009, 06:52:40 AM »

[member]

Quote from: lethal289 on November, 11, 2009, 08:48:29 PM

Thanks John
That back spacing, is that true for 65 on? I thought 67's didnt have an issue 4.5" spacing. At least i haven't noticed anything rubbing.

I've put them on the early cars with no rubbing also. It depends on the type of upper arm used. The ball joint dome is what gets in the way, not the ball joint itself. The spindle to upper ball joint dome dimension is the same on all of the cars given they both have the same upper arm. Some upper arms have less ball joint dome than others. The aftermarket upper arms for the 67-up cars use a 3 bolt ball joint while the 65-66 use the 4 bolt ball joint. Most of the time, the 3 bolt arm has less ball joint dome.

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