Author Topic: Over the axle transition sheet metal (Read 936 times)

my68vert · « **on:** October, 29, 2009, 08:16:26 PM »

Hey guys, new to the site and fairly new in restoring my 68. I have finished up the entire front of the car with new (aprons, frame rails, cowl, side cowls,etc.. and now I am at the floors and moving my way back.

I have the floor mostly out, and have a 1pc full unit to replace it, as well as the piece that goes over the axle (shocks mount to). I'm putting in new rear frame rails/tq boxes and inner/outer wheel housings as well so I can pretty much gut it. My question really comes to removing the support between the trunk and the rear seat. I started drilling out spot welds to remove the piece as one unit but I just want to make sure I have the right idea. Does anyone have any tips on replacing this portion of sheet metal?

Areas of concern since a previous owner knocked out spot welds and boogered up with crap tack welds I am going to have to do some tricky cutting/grinding to keep stuff for reuse.

I guess I'm just looking for some guidance on that rear floor area near the torque boxes, rear tq boxes and that transition piece.

Any pics would be helpful.

Thanks

tarafied1 · « **Reply #1 on:** October, 29, 2009, 08:52:50 PM »

welcome! you have come to the right place, these guys are great and have a lot of experiance.
I don't know if I can help you much but we did pretty much the same thing with my buddies 65 FB.
Here are some pics:

we actually used frame rails from a doner 66 coupe, everything else was repop stuff.
we kept the frame rails and torque boxes in tact and welded them to the original rockers (about the only original part left!).

my68vert · « **Reply #2 on:** October, 29, 2009, 09:15:46 PM »

Thanks Craig (saw your name in your avatar :)) Just trying to see the main idea on replacing and those help a bunch. My convertible has a bit different of a layout for the seat divider it seems but same principle. I will snap some pics tomorrow and post some questionable areas.

man oh man, I wish my buddies had your skills lol. Anyone live here in Chicago by me that wants to help :D I will provide the beer!

btw craig, your build thread was inspirational. Honestly man, that is the reason I bought my project, to have a story behind it and you've done a great job documenting yours.

Chris

tarafied1 · « **Reply #3 on:** October, 29, 2009, 09:33:08 PM »

Thanks for the compliments! I travel to the Chicago area frequently for work (the old stockyard area near Midway, Aurora/Naperville and Kanakakee). We'll have to hook up, I'd love to lend a hand when I can (sure would beat sitting in an empty hotel room) and post up those pics!

my68vert · « **Reply #4 on:** October, 30, 2009, 05:42:44 PM »

Anytime you are in town, you are absolutely welcome to kill some down time wrenching! :) I'm in Bloomingdale which is on the way to Naperville kinda off of 355 and Lake St.

Btw, here a couple pics of those gooped up welded areas I may have some troubles seperating.

I just want to make sure I try to save sheetmetal they don't reproduce.

tarafied1 · « **Reply #5 on:** October, 30, 2009, 06:24:54 PM »

hmmm... I have never had a vert. I see what you mean. Lots of extra stuff in there. Is that "previous owner" added sheet metal on the brace? Is that black stuff under coating or paint? Do you have a plasma cutter?

my68vert · « **Reply #6 on:** October, 30, 2009, 06:29:53 PM »

Thats a good question on if that's "added" sheet metal material, I can't find another detailed pic of that area for a convertible yet to see. I do have a plasma cutter so that may be my way to knock it out. I wish I was able to just drill out spot welds lol

my68vert · « **Reply #7 on:** November, 01, 2009, 08:39:44 PM »

after wire wheeling those areas I have pointed out above I think those may just be some crappy patches some tried to make. Maybe that will make it easier on me now that I can cut those out and redo it properly.

Another quick question for the pro's, would it be ok to plug weld the new 1pc floor pan on over a small lip I left from the pan I cut out? I see it taking days to grind down the welds and old floor pan to rocker. Just looking for some direction on this one.

Thanks
Chris

daveSanborn · « **Reply #8 on:** November, 02, 2009, 05:25:59 AM »

IMO, it would be "okay", but not the best way to do it. It would be better if you ground off the remaining lip of the old floor pan along the rocker.

Fast68back · « **Reply #9 on:** November, 02, 2009, 05:43:24 AM »

I think I would suggest maybe tacking a couple cross beams in the door openings until you get the floors back in, it would keep the car a lot more square. I dont think it would be necessary if you had a roof on the car, but I'd sure hate to see the car collapse on itself for lack of bracing.

daveSanborn · « **Reply #10 on:** November, 02, 2009, 06:08:57 AM »

Oh heck yeah! I lost site of the fact that this work was being done on a 'vert.

Make sure both doors close/align and then temporarily weld in some supporting crossbars from the A to C pillar.

my68vert · « **Reply #11 on:** November, 02, 2009, 06:25:27 AM »

I was actually going to pick up the angle iron today for the door braces :)

I have gone so deep into this thing that I might as well do it right and knock out the rest of the old floor. I'll just have to buy lots more grinding wheels for my dewalt !

tarafied1 · « **Reply #12 on:** November, 02, 2009, 08:59:29 AM »

Quote from: my68vert on November, 02, 2009, 06:25:27 AM

I was actually going to pick up the angle iron today for the door braces :)

I have gone so deep into this thing that I might as well do it right and knock out the rest of the old floor. I'll just have to buy lots more grinding wheels for my dewalt !

I know it's more work, but you'll feel a lot better about it when it's done. That's not something you would want to go back and do again later. I admire you, it looks like the work done so far is has been a lot but well done!

my68vert · « **Reply #13 on:** February, 17, 2010, 09:35:41 AM »

well, finally took some time for myself and worked on the mustang, new job has me traveling a ton :(.

Anyways, it feels good to make a bit of progress, even though it may not look like it. I've been doing a good just being patient and doing a bit at a time.

Thanks again for the help and advice guys. I'll be sure to keep this thread updated as I make progress. Oh and the floor was so poorly tacked in it was not nearly as bad taking out the entire thing. for once I'm not cursing the previous "restorer" for the shoddy work lol.

Chris

tarafied1 · « **Reply #14 on:** February, 17, 2010, 01:52:51 PM »

WOW! You have a lot of work there but glad to see another one being saved!!! Can't wait for more pics!!!

apollard · « **Reply #15 on:** February, 17, 2010, 02:02:34 PM »

That's quite a challenge and some impressive work.

Everytime I think I've got too much rust to deal with, I pull up StangFix, and feel much better :ecit

66gt350 · « **Reply #16 on:** February, 17, 2010, 02:20:38 PM »

Quote from: apollard on February, 17, 2010, 02:02:34 PM

That's quite a challenge and some impressive work.

Everytime I think I've got too much rust to deal with, I pull up StangFix, and feel much better :ecit

+1 on that....

my68vert · « **Reply #17 on:** February, 18, 2010, 10:29:23 AM »

crazy enough, the best thing about logging on to here is that it gives me the much needed motivation to get going on the car. All I have to do is login and see your guys rides!!! :)