Author Topic: 5/8" Drill Bit - Shopping! (Read 1375 times)

hivewax · « **on:** October, 14, 2009, 02:23:33 PM »

i need a 5/8" hole... modifying the front strut mounts for the adjustable strut rods. the lowest i found for a 5/8" drill bit was at Sears for $16.99:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/ProductDisplay?partNumber=00966051000P&storeId=10153&sName=Drill+Bits&psid=FROOGLE01&vName=Tools&cName=PowerToolAccessories&catalogId=12605&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

the local Northern Tools and Harbor Freight don't carry individual drill bits. i might just call the local Sears to see if it's there.

anyone know/find anything cheaper??

daveSanborn · « **Reply #1 on:** October, 14, 2009, 02:31:17 PM »

$16.99 is a lot less than I paid....

Is the hole actually 5/8ths? I thought it was a little bit smaller than that.... I assume you're re-locating your UCA's?

hivewax · « **Reply #2 on:** October, 14, 2009, 02:34:59 PM »

i did the 1.75" UCA drop already, which requires a 1/2" drill bit. the 5/8" hole is for a hole in the strut frame mount. here's a picture of where i'm doing the modification.

silverblueBP · « **Reply #3 on:** October, 14, 2009, 02:36:17 PM »

I'd mail one to ya, but the cost to get there and back would be more than the bit!

hivewax · « **Reply #4 on:** October, 14, 2009, 02:37:46 PM »

i was using a step bit, but i have to go thru 2 layers of metal. i was filing, which is taking forever!

hivewax · « **Reply #5 on:** October, 14, 2009, 02:43:40 PM »

just noticed the Sears Craftsman drill bit has a 1/2" shank!! not going to fit on a regular drill...

silverblueBP · « **Reply #6 on:** October, 14, 2009, 02:46:09 PM »

I wouldn't think you'll find a 5/8" bit with a shank smaller than 1/2", It would be prone to snap.

hivewax · « **Reply #7 on:** October, 14, 2009, 02:47:34 PM »

so there are drills that use 1/2" shanks. $$$???

Midlife · « **Reply #8 on:** October, 14, 2009, 03:00:23 PM »

Quote from: hivewax on October, 14, 2009, 02:43:40 PM

just noticed the Sears Craftsman drill bit has a 1/2" shank!! not going to fit on a regular drill...

Most drills for home use accept either 3/8" shanks or 1/2" shank maximums. Bench drill presses can accommodate larger shanks, but you're talking big buckaroos. Man, I'd love a free-standing drill press!

hivewax · « **Reply #9 on:** October, 14, 2009, 03:04:41 PM »

well, the local Sears has the bit and the drill... spend probably $130! :doh

daveSanborn · « **Reply #10 on:** October, 14, 2009, 03:38:06 PM »

Not to get sidetracked, but exactly what kind of modification are you making to the strut frame mount?

BTW, I love my step bit also and don't know how I ever lived w/o one.

johnpro · « **Reply #11 on:** October, 14, 2009, 04:46:27 PM »

Quote from: daveSanborn on October, 14, 2009, 03:38:06 PM

Not to get sidetracked, but exactly what kind of modification are you making to the strut frame mount?

BTW, I love my step bit also and don't know how I ever lived w/o one.

My thoughts exactly. I'm using the Street or Track adjustable strut rods on my '66. No drilling or modifications necessary. I can't imagine what 5/8" hole is needed for a strut rod.

Also, that picture with the cut out strut rod mount looks a little scary. Why is that area cut out?

hivewax · « **Reply #12 on:** October, 14, 2009, 05:16:32 PM »

here's what's involved. they had the bolt-in adj strut rods for like $100 more, but i went the cheap route. :skull

gotstang · « **Reply #13 on:** October, 14, 2009, 05:23:14 PM »

Quote from: hivewax on October, 14, 2009, 05:16:32 PM

here's what involved.

Those pics do not compute. I don't think I've seen strut rods quite like that before. They look like JSHarvey's design gone mad. W-T-F?

BTW, you could use a small-shank 5/8" in your existing drill. I've had to buy those type of bits before for some really oddball size holes. Or, there's always a 5/8" holesaw, $3.82 from mcmaster.

hivewax · « **Reply #14 on:** October, 14, 2009, 05:26:04 PM »

you need to familiarize yourself with the Cobra Automotive catalog. :nice

Shrinkdude · « **Reply #15 on:** October, 14, 2009, 06:01:35 PM »

I made my own for under $60 and got the stuff locally.
I did use a slightly larger bolt though. I think drilling and getting the spacers the right size was the hard parts.

hivewax · « **Reply #16 on:** October, 14, 2009, 06:05:30 PM »

awesome fabrication work... wish i had the skills to build my own stuff.

hivewax · « **Reply #17 on:** October, 14, 2009, 06:13:01 PM »

shrinkdude skipped all the grinding! that's the hard part and then the drilling.

Shrinkdude · « **Reply #18 on:** October, 14, 2009, 06:18:40 PM »

I figured why take it out? It really was pretty easy and straight forward modification.

Fast68back · « **Reply #19 on:** October, 14, 2009, 08:00:04 PM »

Yours is probably stronger with not removing the stock mount. Nice job!

daveSanborn · « **Reply #20 on:** October, 15, 2009, 05:26:28 AM »

I'm curious how will the absence of any bushings will effect ride quality on a street driven car.

I assume that it will be a much harsher ride than your typical daily driver.

70_Fastback · « **Reply #21 on:** October, 15, 2009, 05:52:50 AM »

Dude, what's up with that floor?

johnpro · « **Reply #22 on:** October, 15, 2009, 08:24:39 AM »

Quote from: daveSanborn on October, 15, 2009, 05:26:28 AM

I'm curious how will the absence of any bushings will effect ride quality on a street driven car.

I assume that it will be a much harsher ride than your typical daily driver.

Quite the opposite. Basically, the piss-poor stock design is binding any time the control arms move and it also allows for forward/aft movement during braking/acceleration.

Replacing the bushing with a heim joint keeps the alignment more consistent, and a whole lot smoother.

Replacing the stock '66 strut rods and arms with Street or Track strut rods and ORP roller upper arms made the car ride INCREDIBLY smooth. Even SWMBO commented on how much smoother the car drove. Currently, the only bushings in my front suspension are the sway bar and lower control arms.

AtlantaSteve · « **Reply #23 on:** October, 15, 2009, 08:52:43 AM »

Huh, so the Daze Style "DIY" Strut Rods use the clevis and spacers to bolt into your existing Strut-bar mount, but the "JSHarvey" style (Which I've never seen before...they just stayed off my RADAR apparently) you just bolt right through the rail there. Interesting.

Is any one better than the other? It seems the JSHarvey style would be easier with less dinking around with all the parts required to get the clevis installed.

Are there any online "how-to's" with the JSHarvey style?

Thanks,

Steve