anyone running cable clutch on 67/8 mustang

[GT350]

anyone running cable clutch on 67/8 mustang if which one and what headers are you using ?

[David67]

I run the mustang steve cable clutch with dougs headers. They are a little bit expensive but man they are super nice headers. They get close to one tube but I made a little bracket that pushes about 1/8 inch away. I have had it like this for about a year.

[Fast68back]

I had one on mine at one time, but when I tore the car down I decided to change to hydraulic. I HAD the Ron Morris kit on there with JBA shorties. Everything fit, I just didnt like the fact that the cable ran damn near all the way to the radiator support then turned down to run back to the trans. The mustang steve kit uses a late model cable (readily available) where the RM one is custom and costs more.....

[B67FSTB]

I also run the mustang steve cable setup.

I have altered my left header so the cable run right into the opening tap on the trans.

I have not tested it yet so i can't say how it works.

Because i am on a budget i had to altered the headers and choose for the cable setup.

Otherwise i would choose for the hydraulic setup .

[joesgt281]

i checked out the mustang steve setup but they didn't have any pics on the routing of the cable.
it sounds like it also runs up front quite a ways, then comes back to the bellhousing.
anybody got any pics?

[daveSanborn]

In my '66 with shock towers removed, ut it should give you an idea of the cable length/routing....

[joesgt281]

thanks Dave.
nice looking engine bay btw!

[daveSanborn]

nice looking engine bay btw!

That was fresh paint just after/during engine installation.  Trust me, it ain't that pretty anymore.  Painting the engine compartment white was one of the dumbest ideas I've had!

[joesgt281]

There's alot of disgruntled people in the Mustang Steve forums about problems with his cables.
Trying to sort it out but seems that a main issue is the length of the 87-93 adjustable cable being too short.
Apparently there's a 96+ adjustable version that may be better.

[daveSanborn]

the length of the 87-93 adjustable cable being too short

With my "missing" shock towers, the clutch cable length or cable to header clearance isn't an issue, but for those with shock towers I can clearly see where having the cable a little longer would definitely help to route the cable around the shock tower and away from the headers.

[joesgt281]

Don't know if anybody's seen this, but it's a really ingenious way to use a hydraulic clutch where the master cylinder can't be used in the engine compartment due to the use of a brake booster.  It goes under the dash.

1965 Mustang underdash hydraulic master cylinder

It's designed by a guy in the Houston area that owns Rosehill Performance.
He's not marketing it yet.

[daveSanborn]

Hmm.... very interesting.

I'm curious where the slave ends up being situated under the dash?  It was difficult to determine from the video as the angle was wrong in relation to the pedal hangar in order to make a determination.  It looks like it will "almost" be out of sight and completely tucked up under the dash, but it's hard to tell as the video doesn't show the top of the master cylinder when viewed from the side.

Very good idea though!

[joesgt281]

i guess that's why i like working on cars so much....not the "plug n play" stuff, but the challenge of figuring a new way to skin the cat.
in Glen's system, the reservoir for the master cylinder can literally be anywhere.  What you see here is just the cylinder itself.

[daveSanborn]

in Glen's system, the reservoir for the master cylinder can literally be anywhere.  What you see here is just the cylinder itself.

Remote reservoirs are yesterdays news.  There's one in my sons '68 with the JMC kit.

Mounting the master under the dash though is something different..... 

[joesgt281]

Remote reservoirs are yesterdays news.  There's one in my sons '68 with the JMC kit.

Mounting the master under the dash though is something different..... 

Sure, the remote reservoir simply makes this underdash system possible.

[KGMUSTANG]

I installed a Mustang Steve cable sys. a few hundred miles ago on my 66 and the operation is smooth. My cable from M.S. runs down through the rear depression on the shock tower just forward of the rear bolt for the upper arm. I added a small tab off the bolt with a thin jam nut. The tab keeps the cable tucked in against the shock tower.  I am using repo. HIPO cast iron manifolds which probably clear better.  My only concern is having to adjust the pedal several times already.  I installed a Ford Racing cobra clutch, maybe it is just wearing in!! It's ease to adjust with the optional knurled knob. I also covered the cable with a woven heat shield tube.

[6t6red]

You should be ok after a little usage to allow some stretching.  Just readjust.

[nymustang]

I used the modern driveline kit in my car. It went together well, but the cable seems to be pretty long. It routes all the way to the front of the shock tower then back down to the bell housing. I am not crazy about the bracket attachment to the clutch pedal as it seems like it might work itself loose. Its something I will have to pay attention to. It operates very smoothly, though I have not had it out on the road yet. Just up and down the driveway (about 150 feet). The Mustang Steve quadrant looks like a better setup to me.

[buening]

Other than the higher cost, is there any other reason why people don't choose to go fully hydraulic?

[Fast68back]

I'd bet the horror stories about bleeding the hydraulic clutch is a deterrent to a number of folks. I had the shop that did my exhaust bleed mine while they had it.

[daveSanborn]

Other than the higher cost, is there any other reason why people don't choose to go fully hydraulic?

The only other logical argument I've heard against hydraulic clutch systems is:  "If it has fluid, it will eventually leak."

It's difficult to argue with that logic.

Hydraulic throwout bearing kits get a bad wrap due to the fact that the trans must be slid rearward in order to replace them.

Even with these considerations, I'd prefer to have the hydraulic over the cable system.

[joesgt281]

I really like the cable system in my 94...very smooth.
I've heard of people having problems with them, particularly if they're routed too close to headers and not protected.

[Rorin67]

The only other logical argument I've heard against hydraulic clutch systems is:  "If it has fluid, it will eventually leak."

It's difficult to argue with that logic.

Even with these considerations, I'd prefer to have the hydraulic over the cable system.

+1 on all of Dave's comments.

I've been through most all of the options on my daily driver '67.  Ditched the OEM linkage because it interfered with the R&P.  So I went with the Mustang Steve set up.  After frying and replacing two cables (yes I even wrapped them good with heat resistant stuff), the Mustang Steve system cost me more in the end than my current hydraulic system. 

AND, those Mustang Steve cables are not as "readily available" as you think.  They are Ford Racing cables, not stock Ford OEM cables, so you still have to order them through someone.  Unless your local parts store stocks Ford Racing items (most do not), ordering them takes time for shipping, which would be same amount of time as shipping a Modern Driveline cable. 

The piecemeal hydraulic system costs just a tad more than the MustangSteve cable system, is just as easy to install, is super easy to bleed if you do it right, and offers a super smooth pedal. 

BUT - nothing is perfect, since the rubber seals blew out on my first slave cylinder while navigating heavy L.A. traffic, and left me stranded waiting for a AAA truck.  The seals on the new slave haven't failed me yet.

In the end, stick to the OEM linkage if you can - it's the only one that's proven reliable...  But if you MUST have something different, hydraulic is the way to go.  Just my $0.02.

[LMan68]

Ive used cable on both my Mustangs.  After modifying the headers, Ive never had an issue.

[tarafied1]

I haven't heard any of you cable guys complain of it but is the firewall strong enough? I've heard or read other places that the early Stangs firewall wasn't up to the strain from a cable. I am considering (in the future) a TKO in my 67.