Author Topic: Mini-Tub Dilemma (Read 1677 times)

hivewax · « **on:** July, 06, 2009, 09:32:56 AM »

some are telling me to mini-tub the rear to fit at least 15x10" wheels. what do you all think? are 15x8" fine for this 347 motor? what if... in the future, an alum 427 is put in place? i also have a chance to cut out some rust in the leaf spring to rear frame rail trunk area and in the driver side frame rail in front of the shock tower.

daveSanborn · « **Reply #1 on:** July, 06, 2009, 11:03:53 AM »

With 17x8 wheels and 255/40 series G-Force radials, my 347 powered '66FB will slide frighteningly sideways shifting into 2nd at 5500 RPM. Shifting into third at around 50 MPH at the same RPM causes a similar loss of traction and an exponentially higher pucker factor. So yes, if I were thinking of dropping in a 427 motor, I'd definitely want more traction capable of transfering that power to the ground. Without the traction, the HP is useless.

Fast68back · « **Reply #2 on:** July, 06, 2009, 11:06:04 AM »

Without going to a 4 link and ditching the leaf springs how much could you gain with mini-tubs and retain the leafs? How big a tire could you get in there without mini-tubbing it?

daveSanborn · « **Reply #3 on:** July, 06, 2009, 11:08:20 AM »

What year car are we talking about?

Fast68back · « **Reply #4 on:** July, 06, 2009, 11:10:32 AM »

Quote from: daveSanborn on July, 06, 2009, 11:08:20 AM

What year car are we talking about?

Dis one, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2978777

hivewax · « **Reply #5 on:** July, 06, 2009, 11:12:37 AM »

Quote from: daveSanborn on July, 06, 2009, 11:03:53 AM

an exponentially higher pucker factor.

:dumas

that's means yes then for mini-tub for my '66. largest i've heard are 15x8.5" with hammering and flaring w/out tubbing... 15x10" w/ leaf springs and/or frame rails inward/shaved + mini-tub.

hivewax · « **Reply #6 on:** July, 06, 2009, 12:21:51 PM »

anyone have the forum link to the '65-66FB that used '67 outer wheel-housing?

hivewax · « **Reply #7 on:** July, 06, 2009, 12:35:57 PM »

too slow! i found it...
http://forums.stangnet.com/656858-1965-fastback-project.html

silverblueBP · « **Reply #8 on:** July, 06, 2009, 06:10:32 PM »

Have you thought about some softer compound tires first? Like the Nitto NT-01, they are a DOT comp tire. You just wouldn't want to be caught in a downpour.

On second thought, I forgot you're in Miami.....nevermind.

hivewax · « **Reply #9 on:** July, 06, 2009, 06:16:11 PM »

Quote from: Fast68back on July, 06, 2009, 11:06:04 AM

How big a tire could you get in there without mini-tubbing it?

i've read 275/50/15 Drag Radials on 15x8" work OK for a select few.

AzPete · « **Reply #10 on:** July, 06, 2009, 06:17:58 PM »

Just like doing anything on these cars, do it the way you think you MIGHT need it done OR do it twice. Tubbing it to the max gives you all the availability of all the options.

daveSanborn · « **Reply #11 on:** July, 07, 2009, 12:31:04 PM »

Keep in mind that too much tubbing interferes with your factory rear seat.

hivewax · « **Reply #12 on:** July, 07, 2009, 12:44:46 PM »

i talked to a shop. he said i should first buy the rear disc brakes, 9" housing, and wheels before doing a mini-tub. is he correct? if so, how do i know what length to get for the rear housing and what back spacing for the 15x10" wheel? i'm thinking 1" less than stock length and talk to PSE for correct back spacing to make the wheel flush with the body, but then i have to worry about tire bulge.

Fast68back · « **Reply #13 on:** July, 07, 2009, 12:56:07 PM »

If your going to buy new wheels to go with a 10" wheel, why not upgrade to a 16 or 17" wheel and increase your tire options? A lower profile tire is going to have less tire bulge.

But... if you bought 10" rims and then did the mini tub and found you could go bigger than a 10" rim, you have to buy yet another set of rims.... The rear end and brake setup would determine the BS you would need for the wheel.

hivewax · « **Reply #14 on:** July, 07, 2009, 01:06:10 PM »

i like the vintage 15" TTD look. i'm getting the 9" and late model Mustang 4-piston caliper brakes from Cobra Auto. or are Wilwoods better?

hivewax · « **Reply #15 on:** July, 09, 2009, 04:11:15 AM »

i think mini-tubbing right now isn't worth it unless i do it myself. i just bought the stock length 9" rear, leaf springs, traction bars, & the rear disc brakes. i'll see if a 15x8.5" or 15x9" will fit with some hammering. if not, 15x8" w/4.5" back spacing.

buening · « **Reply #16 on:** August, 24, 2009, 10:59:26 AM »

Mini-tub gets my vote. If you are not concerned about staying original, you'll probably find yourself wanting bigger tires in the future. Do you have the capability to mini-tub it yourself? Trying to squeeze as big of tire in stock wheel wells only to shred two tires going around a curve a little too fast will ruin your day. Only do it once, as it's cheaper :bash

hivewax · « **Reply #17 on:** August, 24, 2009, 11:09:46 AM »

i decided not to mini-tub now. i wanted to get the car back on the road fast w/out too much worries. i have rusty frame rails to replace already! decided on a 15x8 with 4.5" back-space.