Author Topic: 9" Rear Options - '66FB (Read 2148 times)

hivewax · « **on:** June, 11, 2009, 03:47:13 AM »

the original 8" rear end just gave out this morning. i guess it couldn't handle the 289 stroked 347.

i've checked 9" rear prices from Currie, Moser/Cobra Automotive, and Strange. they all are priced at ~$2300 for the housing and 3rd member (w/axles?).

i checked eBay and found Quick Performance Racing. any feedback on them are appreciated. the housing/axle packages for $650! this is compared to Currie $1050.

also, i was thinking of stinking with the stock rear drums for awhile. will they swap over?

do any think i can still use the 8" rear? i'll have to check the innards to see the damage. the car doesn't move when put in gear.

TIA

Fast68back · « **Reply #1 on:** June, 11, 2009, 06:57:44 AM »

The down side to having a 65/66 (dont flame me) is that it is SOOO much more difficult to find a 9" housing that fits, there were not many cars that used the same size rear. Unless you have time to look around and wait for a deal to pop up you almost have to have one custom built from a place like Currie. I think for 2300 you could get a housing, axles, rear discs and a third member. I bought my housing from Currie, got the axles and had the larger ends installed so I could run the explorer brake kit, which I also got from Currie with drilled and slotted rotors. There is a guy on ebay that rebuilds/sells third members for right around 600 with a trac lok and he will put the gears you want in it. I'll update the post later and put a link to the guys auctions. You could do all that for right under $2k

monkeystash · « **Reply #2 on:** June, 11, 2009, 07:00:32 AM »

It's tough to do it cheap with good parts. I've got over 2K in my 9" (Currie housing & axles, Cobra discs, and ebay N chunk w/ DL.) Another option would be to fix the 8" as you save for the 9". In '67+ the 8" chunks were better reinforced than the earlier ones. I recently picked up a complete '67 8" chunk on ebay for $35 (the shipping was more than the item.) If you didn't break your chunk, you probably broke an axle. Currie also sells beefy 8" axles. As usual, it just comes down to money.

silverblueBP · « **Reply #3 on:** June, 11, 2009, 08:23:18 AM »

I had Currie make my housing & axles to my width specs, been great since. Try not to cheap out on the the rear, with that 347....you might regret it.

hivewax · « **Reply #4 on:** June, 11, 2009, 09:05:40 AM »

Mark (silverblueBP), what's the length of housing flange-to-flange on yours? did you follow Cobra Auto specs by cutting off 0.5" each end (57.25" to 56.25")? this is to fit the AR TTD 15"x8.5" rim. i'm thinking of going 17" with this spec.

hivewax · « **Reply #5 on:** June, 11, 2009, 09:08:06 AM »

yeah, i can't cheap out. this engine broke the cast crank on first initiation. now, it has a Eagle forged crank.

silverblueBP · « **Reply #6 on:** June, 12, 2009, 08:12:43 AM »

Quote from: hivewax on June, 11, 2009, 09:05:40 AM

Mark (silverblueBP), what's the length of housing flange-to-flange on yours? did you follow Cobra Auto specs by cutting off 0.5" each end (57.25" to 56.25")? this is to fit the AR TTD 15"x8.5" rim. i'm thinking of going 17" with this spec.

Sorry for the lag in replying!

Yes, when I had Currie make the new housing, I had it made to 51 1/4" (housing flange to flange) which makes it 56 1/4" axle to axle flange.

This still works with 15x7 TTD's except when I run the Bluestreaks at the track. They flex so much, I have to add a 3/8" spacer to each side.

Fast68back · « **Reply #7 on:** June, 12, 2009, 05:57:29 PM »

This is the guy on Ebay I was talking about
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330336460727&indexURL=7&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting

I'd say he has a couple....

hivewax · « **Reply #8 on:** June, 13, 2009, 03:48:23 AM »

Nice. The best link yet... he has a pumpkin patch!

Today, I'll open up the rear... just got a slide hammer from HF.

hivewax · « **Reply #9 on:** June, 15, 2009, 03:21:58 AM »

man, backing plate nuts are on there tight. i stripped 2 nuts using a socket wrench. i could not take it off.

68EFIvert · « **Reply #10 on:** June, 15, 2009, 05:20:46 AM »

Quote from: Fast68back on June, 12, 2009, 05:57:29 PM

This is the guy on Ebay I was talking about
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330336460727&indexURL=7&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting

I'd say he has a couple....

That is where I got my pumpkin from.

Fast68back · « **Reply #11 on:** June, 15, 2009, 01:23:01 PM »

Quote from: 68EFIvert on June, 15, 2009, 05:20:46 AM

That is where I got my pumpkin from.

Jeremy and Sluggo Built their pumpkins

Midlife · « **Reply #12 on:** June, 15, 2009, 03:49:51 PM »

Quote from: Fast68back on June, 15, 2009, 01:23:01 PM

Jeremy and Sluggo Built their pumpkins

I thought they grew them, and then painted 'em...

hivewax · « **Reply #13 on:** June, 15, 2009, 08:41:42 PM »

When I buy the 9" housing, should I keep it stock length or shorten it to fit a wider rim? What's the process? Select brakes, then wheels, then the housing length??

silverblueBP · « **Reply #14 on:** June, 16, 2009, 04:00:37 AM »

If you get the rear shortened 1" you can still run a 7" wheel with a 3 3/4" backset and street tires. As for any other wheel, I would check first, but by all means, figure out what you will be using for wheels and brakes and make sure they will all fit before ordering the rear.

Fast68back · « **Reply #15 on:** June, 16, 2009, 11:33:22 AM »

On a 65/66 is the max wheel width determined by the width of the housing/rear or the wheel wells themselves? Do you plan on changing your wheels or just thinking ahead for a future wheel swap? I dont think rear brakes add to track width while the fronts (aftermarket kits) would, do they?

hivewax · « **Reply #16 on:** June, 16, 2009, 12:56:13 PM »

I talked to Phil at PSE Vintage Wheels and he has 15x8" w/4.5"b.s. T/A-I's. I like the black T/A's in 15x8.5".
And, I'm decided on Wilwood disc brakes.

hivewax · « **Reply #17 on:** June, 16, 2009, 01:09:44 PM »

psvintagewheels.com - under products

hivewax · « **Reply #18 on:** June, 16, 2009, 03:19:14 PM »

I want to get all 4 wheels, rear disc brakes, and 9" rear in one shot. I have the orig front disc brakes. Do any think I should replace those? Or, maybe at a later time? I'm thinking 15x8.5" in the rear if they fit w/out too much banging. If not, I'll go 15x8" rear. In the front, 15x7". That's the widest I've seen in 15". Maybe I can maximize rim width by adding strut rods, negative camber kit, 1.75" drop.

hivewax · « **Reply #19 on:** June, 18, 2009, 04:03:13 AM »

Quote from: Fast68back on June, 16, 2009, 11:33:22 AM

On a 65/66 is the max wheel width determined by the width of the housing/rear or the wheel wells themselves? Do you plan on changing your wheels or just thinking ahead for a future wheel swap? I dont think rear brakes add to track width while the fronts (aftermarket kits) would, do they?

max wheel width is determined by both housing length and wheel well... Cobra Automotive shortens rear housing lengths to fit 15x8.5" AR TTD's, but they had to modify the flares and hammer the inner wheel-housing i believe. i bought a Percy's WheelRite to make things easier. i don't know if different brakes will effect track width. i'll talk to a technician at Wilwood or the rear place.

silverblueBP · « **Reply #20 on:** June, 18, 2009, 06:56:05 AM »

When I started running the Bluestreaks at the track they have enough flex to them that I cut down the right rear from it hitting the lower inner fender well. I ended up hammering all the inner area so there was no way any edge could cut a tire.

I never had the problem with street tires.