Author Topic: camshaft choices (Read 365 times)

SELLERSRODSHOP · « **on:** February, 20, 2012, 12:11:35 AM »

took a little time this weekend to start the cleanup on the gt-40p motor that going in the tr-4. i decided that since all the hoses,sensors & injectors were ruined in the fire to scrap the idea of keeping the EFI on it for now. long term plans are to eventually find a good H.O. motor from a mustang & use the shortblock to build for my mustang & use all the fuel rails injectors etc. on the explorer EFI since mustang parts are needed to use the aftermarket harnesses.
i removed all the crusty EFI stuff & picked up a really nice almost new edelbrock performer rpm intake for $100 yesterday. also started cleaning up the mess on the outer surfaces of the block/heads etc. had one lower intake bolt that snapped off, but there was enough left sticking up to weld a bolt to & get it turned out.

i'm trying to decide if i want (or need) to change cams. i figure now would be the time to do it since i'll be replacing the timing cover & already have it torn down to a bare long block. taking into account that this car only weighs 2000 lbs, & the stock 4 cyl put out 100 hp vs. the 210 rated on the stock gt-40p, should i upgrade to a stock H.O. mustang cam or one of the ford "303" series cams? here are the specs i found for the stock explorer cam :

Intake: .422", Exhaust .448" (measured valve lift)
Intake: 256*, Exhaust 266* (actual duration, NOT at .050")
116* lobe seperation

For comparison, the stock 5.0 HO cam:
Lift Intake: .444", Exhaust .444"
Duration Intake: 266*, Exhaust 266*

ford racing E303:
Duration 282/282
Lift .498/.498

ford racing B303:
Duration 284/284
Lift .480/.480

any recommendations? the motor will be backed up with a t-5 & a narrowed 8.8 rear.

67 Fastback · « **Reply #1 on:** February, 20, 2012, 05:18:29 AM »

I wouldn't run the explorer came. I would run the HO cam myself.
Bill

apollard · « **Reply #2 on:** February, 20, 2012, 05:21:41 AM »

You've got it onpen, and easily accessible. Don't run that dog of a cam. It runs out of lungs quick. I'd go with the E303 at least. Wait. I am, for my exploder 5.0 I'm building now

Nice $100 find on the intake!

monkeystash · « **Reply #3 on:** February, 20, 2012, 06:14:09 AM »

I ran a B303 with stock heads and valve springs. It worked real well.

stangg · « **Reply #4 on:** February, 20, 2012, 06:35:09 AM »

My motor was used when I originally dropped it into my Mustang. I put the E303 in along with the cobra intake, 19# injectors, headers etc.. it ran fine except for a problem I had with #5 oil ring. I even got 24-26 MPG on the free way with it. After rebuilding the motor to a 331, I'm still using the E303. It turns almost 108 in the 1/4 in my roughly 3200# car/driver, plenty cam for a primarily street car. In a 2000# car it will be a beast no matter what you select. E303 is suited to automaticcs, where B303 is better suited for Manual trans. I think I selected E303 because it was also better suited for boost if ever I wanted to super charge it. I'm pretty sure 68efivert ran the E303 in his first engine too.

SELLERSRODSHOP · « **Reply #5 on:** February, 25, 2012, 09:40:35 PM »

thanks! keeping my eye out for a good deal on an "e" cam. there seem to be more of those floating around vs. the "b" cam.

next question: if i locate an older timing cover, can i run a manual pump & pump eccentric with the roller? wasn't sure if the pump eccentric would be universal or if i would need to get one specifically from an 85 ho motor that had the roller cam. when i change cams, i'll go ahead & replace the timing chain etc. also going to borrow a bore camera from the shop up the street & check out the cylinders. need to make sure no water got in during the fire. so far, things look good under the valve covers & in the lifter valley.

Jonk67 · « **Reply #6 on:** February, 26, 2012, 10:16:43 AM »

I think I've got an extra eccentric kit Steve, there's a one pc./2 pc. so you have to match them to the cover/cam gear or you could get scraping. My origninal 289 cover/ eccentric was one pc. if that helps. The bigger difference may be the cam gear that you use, I seem to recall that one is thicker at the center than the other which may be what causes the contact with the back of the TC cover. You may have a parts store pull out an early/later model cam gear and compare thickness where the eccentric bolts. I have my original cam gear if it helps for comparison to your motor.
Jon

SELLERSRODSHOP · « **Reply #7 on:** February, 26, 2012, 11:12:34 AM »

all these years just dropping new crate motors in stuff & i think i've "dumbed down" a bit. lots of stuff i used to know, but just cant remember from 18-20 yrs ago....

SELLERSRODSHOP · « **Reply #8 on:** March, 24, 2012, 08:55:43 PM »

anyone running the "F" cam? looks to be just a tad hotter than the "B". found a good deal on one while looking for an "E" cam & thought i might put it up for a later build for the mustang.

specs:

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=2029

66benchcoupe · « **Reply #9 on:** March, 24, 2012, 09:21:59 PM »

I had the F cam in my 66. It came on like hell after 3000rpms and pulled hard to 6500-7000, that was with TFS heads, Stealth intake, Demon 650, C4 and 3.55 gears. I always thought it would be better suited for manual trans with 4.11s. My best time in street trim was 12.87@109mph. Incidentally, Johnpro used the F cam in the 408 in his 69.

Robert

EDIT: $279 for a cam?! I think I paid $150 for the F cam 10 years ago. I guess these days good lifters run $600 or so?