Author Topic: Pulling my motor (Read 471 times)

RustyRed · « **on:** May, 14, 2009, 07:51:44 AM »

I think I found someone that wants to buy my tired old 289....long story short a guy is doing a father / son project rebuilding a '67 and he wants something to walk his son through a rebuild.

Checked with the wife and I am going to shoot for pulling the 289 out of my car on Memorial day weekend. Sometime shortly before or after pulling the motor I'll get old Herb started on building me a 302 with the GT40's, Weiand intake, Holley carb, etc that I already have.

It has been a while since I have helped pull an engine but I think I remember the basics....mark the hinges with a sharpie and remove the hood, pull the radiator, remove all hoses / wires, etc from the motor. I just ordered a lift plate so I would remove the carb and attach the lift plate. Going to have to borrow or rent a hoist. But at any rate after all hoses / wires are removed from the block I unbolt the motor mounts then disconnect the motor from the transmission....seems like there is a dust cover that comes off under there to expose the bolts on the fly wheel....planning on putting a floor jack under the transmission while the motor is out to keep it from dropping.....does that sound about right or am I forgetting anything?

While the motor is out I am going to strip the engine bay and repaint it. Also going to weld in my new fender apron and radiator support.

My thinking is this is going to be a pita but a lot cheaper (and more rewarding I suppose :rofl ) to do it myself.

70_Fastback · « **Reply #1 on:** May, 14, 2009, 08:37:44 AM »

I like to jack the rear end of the car way up and put it on jack stands too. Helps reduce the required angle of tilt to get the engine over the radiator support, etc.

silverblueBP · « **Reply #2 on:** May, 14, 2009, 10:08:39 AM »

I put the entire car up on stands, unbolt everything, drain and remove radiator, disconnect a couple wires, remove 4 million bolts out of the scattershield and pull it out, up and over the front end....snot a big deal. It sure beats leaning over the fenders to work on the engine, I've R&R'd the engine so many times I can do it in my sleep.

If you use blue tape to mark the hinges, you don't leave any residue on the hood.

Yes, it's more rewarding when you do the work yourself, it's just knowledge....nothing to be afraid of :nice

RustyRed · « **Reply #3 on:** May, 14, 2009, 10:35:34 AM »

Quote from: 70_Fastback on May, 14, 2009, 08:37:44 AM

I like to jack the rear end of the car way up and put it on jack stands too. Helps reduce the required angle of tilt to get the engine over the radiator support, etc.

I actually am going to be replacing the radiator support somewhere in the midst of all this. I started thinking that cutting it out before going after the engine might make my life easier.

Spoke today with the guy that wants to buy the 289 and he is for certain interested and offered me a deposit if I wanted it to keep the engine for him.

Now I am working on shipping my boys over to their cousin's house to go swimming that day so I can pull it :rofl

RustyRed · « **Reply #4 on:** May, 14, 2009, 10:53:21 AM »

One more probably stupid question...I am thinking of using Eastwood underhood paint and was wondering if anyone has any idea how many 12 oz cans that would take?

It says it covers 6 sq feet / can...???

silverblueBP · « **Reply #5 on:** May, 14, 2009, 12:38:02 PM »

I'm guessing 2 cans, so (I'd) buy 3. I have one for touch ups, but I used the quart stuff years ago and sprayed the engine and underside. It's held up pretty good, but it's never seen rain, only some street and lots of track time.

RustyRed · « **Reply #6 on:** May, 15, 2009, 05:08:33 AM »

I will order at least three on the paint, want to have one around for touch up, etc. You know Murphy's law...if you don't have any paint left you will scratch the sh*t out of it when putting the motor back in but if I have an extra 1/2 to can probably won't scratch it at all.

One thing I noticed when I was in the advanced auto parts the other day...they have airplane stripper. Wouldn't using that be a lot faster than having to wire wheel / sand all the area under the hood? Call me lazy but that might speed things up a bit?

silverblueBP · « **Reply #7 on:** May, 15, 2009, 05:17:19 AM »

That stuff works really good, but is caustic as hell, be careful (yes, I have used it many times).

I tried the non caustic types, but not as efficient as the aircraft stripper (not to be confused with the club stripper)

Fast68back · « **Reply #8 on:** May, 15, 2009, 05:25:36 AM »

Some good pictures and ideas about aircraft stripper on the Mustang Steve website, his daughter stripped her coupe with the stuff.

http://www.mustangsteve.com/carascoupe.html

RustyRed · « **Reply #9 on:** May, 15, 2009, 06:19:05 AM »

Thanks Fast....my stepbrother has a pressure washer that he uses in his business and I bet if I asked nicely he would stop by my place if he happen to be in the area.

One final question I have been kicking around. I am wondering if I can pull the motor with the car backed into the garage. I wasn't really planning on pulling the transmission and just putting a jack under it. However, I am wondering if I will have enough clearance to pull the motor with the car in the garage (probably will, I've seen it done). But how would I move the car out then back in if I needed it out. For example, I would want it outside to use stripper. My only thought was to run a strap (or bailing wire maybe) from the transmission to the export braces to keep it up and not hanging down too low if I needed to roll the car in or out. Can't leave it outside during this whole thing...too many punk / vandal type kids out on Friday nights, not to mention I don't want to leave the car out in the event of a big thunder storm, etc.

silverblueBP · « **Reply #10 on:** May, 15, 2009, 07:04:33 AM »

I use bailing wire to hold the tranny up whenever I remove the engine. Through the holes in the bell housing, up and over the export brace....works fine. I usually take a long pc, fold it over, clamp in a vice and put the other end in a drill. Spin till wound tight and you have a very strong, almost unbreakable pc of wire.

RustyRed · « **Reply #11 on:** May, 15, 2009, 08:11:39 AM »

Thanks for the tip silver....

I think I have pretty much everything I need tool wise after a couple of recent purchases.

One thing I lack is a hoist. However, I was thinking about renting one then I noticed Northern Tool has one for sale for $139. I was thinking it would probably turn out cheaper to buy that one, use it for removal / install then sell it off on the local Craig's List. I guess I could keep it but not sure I have room in the garage. Maybe if I get rid of some crap in there and straighten up some. :rofl