How is everyone finishing the underneath of their car?

[Horseplay]

We do it two ways, base coat /clear coat. Or we spray on U-Tech etch primer, then spray our Vortech bed liner material. No the bed liner material doesn't add a lot of weight.

The thing with the bed liners that always concerned me was their texture. I would think that would lend itself to the collection of road grime, etc. What I find appealing about using one would be the sound deadening I assume one would gain.

Thoughts?

[steveh326]

You shouldn't need more than a quart of Pors-15 if you are going to brush it on.  That stuff goes a long way but if you have any left over it doesn't have a long shelf life.  When you brush it on it levels out pretty good also.

thanks, never used it before, been reading up on it, seems like it's pretty thin and goes a long way.  I thought I might need 2 quarts but looks like 1 will be plenty.  I wish I had some way to get it all down in the cowl area, I got some comparable rattlecan stuff from Eastwood for that with a long flexible extension, I am hoping I can get good coverage down in there also (not to change the subject but since we're talking about POR15).

[steveh326]

The thing with the bed liners that always concerned me was their texture. I would think that would lend itself to the collection of road grime, etc. What I find appealing about using one would be the sound deadening I assume one would gain.

Thoughts?

I was wondering the same things.  I did have my new stainless gas tank line-x'd when I had my truck bed done, but wasn't sure whether to do the rest of the underneath or not.  when I built my last motorcycle a couple years ago my painter used rattlecan bedliner (rustoleum I think, it seems to be thinner than the others) on the inside of my raw steel fenders and it's holding up great...

[Shaun]

With a fine mist of engine oil, gear lube, dust and rubber.  Not pretty but it'll never rust!

[abrahamfh]

thanks, never used it before, been reading up on it, seems like it's pretty thin and goes a long way.  I thought I might need 2 quarts but looks like 1 will be plenty.  I wish I had some way to get it all down in the cowl area, I got some comparable rattlecan stuff from Eastwood for that with a long flexible extension, I am hoping I can get good coverage down in there also (not to change the subject but since we're talking about POR15).

I would ask Justin "gtscode", his method to coating the cowel is genius.

[steveh326]

I would ask Justin "gtscode", his method to coating the cowel is genius.

if you're serious, I'd love to hear what he does, looking for any and all ideas.  how do I post to a specific person?   hell I even thought about plugging the drain holes on the sides, then pouring in about 3 gallons of POR15 thru the top vents till it was almost up to the top of the tophats... but I don't think that would be practical OR affordable...   

[apollard]

Here is his write up:
http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/index.php/topic,3860.msg114931.html#msg114931

Post 5 if it doesn't take you right to it.

[abrahamfh]

Sorry. Didn't see the above was posted while I was typing.

If I remember correctly, he used some funnels with some flexible tubing attached at the ends. Placed the tubing through the cowel vents and started pouring. He engineered this threaded rod inserted through the side access holes of the cowel with a attachment at the end which he attached first a razor blade to clean it up and then a brush to get it all covered evenly.

It has been a while so hopefully he will notice the post and correct me if I missed something and or add to it.

[cmayna]

I really see no reason to paint the bottom side, top side colors.   I use Sems trim black and move on.

[1497]

Factory pink primer. I figure if it survived this long who am I to cover it up? Just wiped the road grime off with mineral spirits.

[garner67]

I used Zero Rust for the extra protection factor ( the red oxide was kind of similar to the original color on this San Jose car).

+1

I used all black Zero Rust... brushed on.

[mustangstofear]

You shouldn't need more than a quart of Pors-15 if you are going to brush it on.  That stuff goes a long way but if you have any left over it doesn't have a long shelf life.  When you brush it on it levels out pretty good also.

Put your left over Por-15 or KBS is what we use and put it in the frig. It will last for months.

[miketyler]

Also helps to put in smaller container to limit the amount of open space in the container. A full container of POR15, sealed proper will last forever.

The underside of my car is done in full gloss body color. I don't believe I have ever seen stripes on the bottom side of a car before.

[68EFIvert]

I just used some 2 year old por15 to paint my new workbench.  I originally used it to paint my car.  If you seal it well it will last.  You may end up destroying the can when you open it the second time.  If you put Saran wrap on top of the can before resealing the lid it comes off much easier.

[mustangstofear]

I poke 4 holes in the tops of all my paint cans, this way it drains back in the can. Then I take a paper towel and wipe the rim completely clean. If you don't clean the rim you WILL destroy the lid and the can trying to get it off. Now if your just using any primer or some miracle epoxy primer the lid will come right off.

[Midlife]

I poke 4 holes in the tops of all my paint cans, this way it drains back in the can. Then I take a paper towel and wipe the rim completely clean. If you don't clean the rim you WILL destroy the lid and the can trying to get it off. Now if your just using any primer or some miracle epoxy primer the lid will come right off.

Holes in the lid, or in the groove where the lid covers?

[mustangstofear]

Put the holes in the rim of the can Randy LOL.

[steveh326]

Man I think I am really overthinking this.  My original thought was to go with POR15 on the existing parts that have light surface rust, hit the E-coat parts with an 8- grit DA, then topcoat everything with something else.  Started thinking hey, SPI epoxy primer in satin would be nice and tough... then I read where never to use it over any rust converters.  Then I read about a lot of products having adhesion issues over the POR15.   I guess the black rustoleum would be OK, but I was hoping for something a little tougher.  I think it's the mix of surface rusted parts and new e-coated parts that has me confused on one product thats compatable for both surfaces.  Looked at Eastwood chassis black, it looks like it comes in a regular and a 2k product, thought that might be a good in-between compromise.  I'm getting a headache, I think I am agonizing way too much over the underneath of the car.  I'm just looking for a proven combination for a durable, decent looking undercarriage

[RyanG85]

I would rethink the POR 15 idea. I've used it on things like axle housings and dust shields with good results but had some issues with it on sheet metal as far as sticking. It will peel on e coat or any metal that is smooth. It really needs a rough or rusty surface to bite too. Top coating can be a problem also. The Eastwood Extreme Chassis black works very well and is pretty tough. I used that on everything I wanted a smooth surface on and I used a rubberized undercoating on the rest for a durable finish.

[classicdoug]

POR 15 must be used on a rusty surface.  It chemically bonds with the rust.  It will peel off everything else.

Doug

[mustangstofear]

If you don't properly prep any surface regardless of what you want to top coat with you will have problems. SPI or any other epoxy or direct to metal primers will peel also if you are trying to put it over a slick finish. When I use the KBS I never put it over rust, my metal is new and have been using it for the last 16 years.

[steveh326]

+1

I used all black Zero Rust... brushed on.

I had never heard of the Zero Rust product till you 2 guys posted about it... looking into it, it looks like it'll work for both my new and old metal under there... thanks very much for the info, I think my dilemma is resolved, gonna order some today.

[steveh326]

If you don't properly prep any surface regardless of what you want to top coat with you will have problems. SPI or any other epoxy or direct to metal primers will peel also if you are trying to put it over a slick finish. When I use the KBS I never put it over rust, my metal is new and have been using it for the last 16 years.

yeah I do understand that prep is key to good finish, but without media blasting I was afraid i could not get 100% of the surface rust off the old parts.  plan is to clean/degrease, wire cup on grinder to get as much rust off old parts as possible, hit the worst parts with 60 grit DA then 80 grit DA over everything old and new, clean it off before topcoating.  I sandblasted the rear end since it was out of the car before I rebuilt and painted it, but I don't have the luxury of being able to do that with the body.

the issue I was having was because i was dealing with old and new surfaces, the more I read about POR15 the more it looked like it was finniky on what it was topcoated with.  It looks like the Zero Rust product above will work on both surfaces and solve my dilemma.

Thanks again or all your help.

DIFFERENT SUBJECT:  About how much lead time should figure on for you to make a console for me?    Planning ahead to when the interior goes in and I need it...

[steveh326]

Major milestone this weekend for me and my car.  I spent a dirty 10 hours on friday cleaning under the car, then got up Sat morning and sprayed the Zero Rust.  Also did the inner fenders, although they will eventually be done with bedliner.  Still a lot of work to do, but having everything in one color makes it look like progress is being made.  There is still some rust repair to do inside the rear wheelwells, then it should be time to lower it down and replace the rear quarters.  I also used Eastwood Internal Frame Coating inside the frame rails and rockers to hopefully keep it from rusting from the inside out.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html

I finally have a couple pics of progress to post.  not much, but it's a step in the right direction.

[chillininnh]

Epoxy primer topcoated with Eastwood chassis black. Eastwood rubberized undercoat only in wheel wells, fender undersides and valence undersides. The chassis black is super easy to touch up and blends in nicely.