What are the odd little.....

[AzPete]

..... :crazy quirks of your car that are not a "problem" but are just an odd situation that you most likely will not try to fix?

My '66 has a thing with the temp. gauge reading. When the engine is relatively cool, the temp will run up to about 215 degrees on initial warm up. As I drive it, the temp climbs as it should. It goes to about 215 before I see the drop of the 180 degree thermostat opening. This fall back down happens within a block or so after the high reading & if you are not watching, you will miss it. After that, the temp hovers right at 180 as it should. I can drive it all over and the temp reads fine. It is just the first opening of the cooled thermostat.

I figure it must be something to do with the engine getting warmer in the lower portion of the block than in the Victor Jr. temp port. The higher temp I see is from the rush of water from the lower part of the engine as it passes thru the intake. I think the thermostat actually opens before I see the peak temp reading. Once all the coolant is warmed, things ride on a pretty even temp then. It did not start this until I got the 180 thermostat, new hoses, new coolant and a new cap. I have double checked everything so I know the system is good plus it handles the rush hour stop and go traffic here. Just one of those things......

Of course, I could be way off on the reason but it sounds good. Now, where did I put that beer.... :hmm

[Midlife]

Mid has two little quirks...maybe 3!

(1) If I don't drive it within 3 weeks, the rear u-joint leaks.  Yes, the rear u-joint.  I'm positive!

(2) My fastback trap door hinge springs rattle like crazy if the door is down.  I can't stop the rattling except by raising the door.

(3) My ammeter gauge will suddenly switch from barely reading to super-sensitive.  When in the latter condition, a typical charge condition is from dead center to half-way to full charge.  This is one electrical condition I cannot figure out.  The best advice I got is that the ammeter gauge itself has lost some of its mechanical spring resistivity.  At times, I doubt this, as every once in a while, the gauge goes back to reading normal.  One of these days I'll replace the gauge and see what happens.

[pnandy]

Mine draws to many wanna be buyers, old men telling me about the mustang they had when they were young, and women complaning that my car smells like gas... every time i fill it up. its annoying now but when they come up to look at your car instead of the camaro next to you its pretty cool

[AzPete]

Mine draws to many wanna be buyers, old men telling me about the mustang they had when they were young, and women complaning that my car smells like gas... every time i fill it up. its annoying now but when they come up to look at your car instead of the camaro next to you its pretty cool

That is just normal when you own an old Mustang. I have them asking me to stop.....

[daveSanborn]

I've got a few quirks on my '66 that I'll probably NEVER fix.

1.  Most annoying is the drivers side outside door latch.  If I press the latch all of the way in with my thumb, the door will open, but the button will not "spring back".  Now you're probably saying to yourself that this is an easy fix.     :bash

No, I worked on the latch mechanism for an entire weekend.  It's not the outside door handle that is sticking.  If I disconnect the linkage arm, the outside handle works great.  It's not the actual door latch on the rear of the door.  I screwed around with it for the whole weekend.  I came to the conclusion that the linkage arm itself was too long and binding the mechanism.  I cut and welded back together the linkage probably five times trying to adjust what should be a fixed length.

I finally got it to work where if I just barely press the thumb latch, the door pops open and everything works great.  Where it's a problem is when someone else unknowingly opens the door and the thumb latch gets stuck inside the handle.... I almost need a pair of pliers to "unstick" the button.

I'm getting real tired of screwing with it.

2.  Nothing rattles in my FB, which is phenominal, but I should have installed an underlayment/sound deadener underneath the rear seat delete.  There is IMO too much "road noise".  It's a PITA getting the rear shelf in and out of the car, but I think I'll tackle an underlayment install this winter.

3.  The rear coilovers are too stiff.  Hitting a bump with with the rear suspension is bone rattling.  There's actually very little articulation from the rear suspension.  I need to figure out a softer spring rate and order a set of different springs.

4-10.  There's a bunch of smaller things...

[Starfury]

1) right now, my p-side window isn't aligned properly.  In addition, the trim moulding is coming off at the top of the window, and the window crank has no screw right now (didn't come with the regulator).  If I try to open the door with the window up, the window moulding scrapes the moulding on the rear of the door jam.  If I roll the window down, I have to pull the moulding down with it, otherwise it gets stuck on the rubber part of the window felt and bends upwards.

So basically, to get someone in the passenger side of the car, I have to crawl into the passenger seat, find the window crank that's rolling around on the floor, pull the moulding down while I roll the window down, and then open the door.  I also have to repeatedly remind certain (female) passengers that you can't simply open the door from the inside, you have to roll the window down first.

What I need is to get some window moulding rubber insulation (really thin rubber sheet), take the whole damn thing out and replace the moulding, then realign the window.  PITA.

2) my rear vents rattle quite a bit.  It's annoying, but I don't want to take them apart.

3) My "trap door" rattles, even though it's not a real trap door.

4) I have no courtesy lights under my dash.  One side is missing a socket and I haven't found a bulb for the other side yet.

5) My reverse lights don't work.  When I rebuilt my shifter, I managed to strip out one of the threaded bosses in the tranny tailshaft for the shifter plate to mount to.  The shifter's fine with two bolts, but the one that's stripped is also the same one the reverse light switch should hook to.  I don't feel like pulling the tranny to helicoil it, so dead it stays.

[70 StangMan]

My brake pedal sometimes hangs up on the steering column causeing the brake lights to stay on unless you tap the pedal up with your toe and the passenger mirror is a little loose inside the cover and tends to wander, but that's about it.