Author Topic: Intake Install (Read 657 times)

Kats66Pny · « **on:** September, 03, 2011, 06:19:46 PM »

Ok I'm trying to put the intake back on and it's leaving a gap after all the bolts are tightened. This picture is after I untightened the bolts, but the gap is pretty much the same size regardless if the bolts are tightened or not. When I removed the intake 6 months ago, there was no seal there, just left over sealant and there wasn't any gap.

Its an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap so I looked up installation so I knew the torque specs (18-20 ft/lbs)
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/7000/7521.pdf

It says not to use cork or rubber end seals and only RTV sealant. The new gasket I got came with these rubber end seals. Should I just say heck with it and use them anyway? I don't see how to eliminate that gap unless I use the end seals.

silverblueBP · « **Reply #1 on:** September, 03, 2011, 06:23:47 PM »

I know others have had problems with cork ends, but I've sealed my Airgap everytime with the cork ends and it's never leaked.

lethal289 · « **Reply #2 on:** September, 03, 2011, 06:28:49 PM »

use the right stuff and never look back.

You can put me on the list that has had problems with the cork and rubber intake end seals.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #3 on:** September, 03, 2011, 06:33:47 PM »

Using sealant isn't going to solve the 1/4" gap.

I already tried that route and the intake barely touched the sealant when all the bolts were torqued down.

crustycurmudgeon · « **Reply #4 on:** September, 03, 2011, 07:38:26 PM »

Use more sealant. Seriously, if the gap really is too large, you may have to have the manifold to cylinder head surfaces machined a bit to drop the manifold down a bit.

Frank

66benchcoupe · « **Reply #5 on:** September, 03, 2011, 08:48:23 PM »

Quote from: Kats66Pny on September, 03, 2011, 06:33:47 PM

Using sealant isn't going to solve the 1/4" gap. I already tried that route and the intake barely touched the sealant when all the bolts were torqued down.

Is the gap really 1/4"?

Robert

Shaun · « **Reply #6 on:** September, 04, 2011, 03:33:58 AM »

Quote from: crustycurmudgeon on September, 03, 2011, 07:38:26 PM

Use more sealant. Seriously, if the gap really is too large, you may have to have the manifold to cylinder head surfaces machined a bit to drop the manifold down a bit.

Frank

+1. Run a big fat bead of RTV along the front and back, torque down the intake and wipe up what squeezes out.

AzPete · « **Reply #7 on:** September, 04, 2011, 05:13:11 AM »

Another vote for more sealant. Never use gaskets there any more.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #8 on:** September, 04, 2011, 05:32:52 AM »

Quote from: 66benchcoupe on September, 03, 2011, 08:48:23 PM

Is the gap really 1/4"?

Robert

I could be exagerating, and it may not be a exactly 1/4" gap.. but it's not a small sliver of a gap. I'll try adding more sealant and see if that does anything. It just doesn't feel right having only sealant there. Ya'll are the experts so I'll take the advice and try it. If it doesn't work... well I'll find out eventually after the motor is running and stuff starts leaking. lol

cmayna · « **Reply #9 on:** September, 04, 2011, 05:42:40 AM »

If necessary, build up the bead of RTV. Run a nice base bead down. Let it sit a few minutes followed by another bead. Once the final bead it on, I'd let it sit a few minutes before installing the intake. The only way to go.

On a similar note, Shag's engine builder used the stock gasket and I know it's just a matter of time before I will be removing the intake to RTV both front and back.

AzPete · « **Reply #10 on:** September, 04, 2011, 05:45:58 AM »

Put a good bead of sealant....nice smooth bead right out of the ube. Don't mess with it..... Let it set for a bit, not dry but still tacky....set the intake on using guide bolts so it does not slide. Bolt it down and torque evenly. Let dry before running. Keep your fingers out of it.......

SAC69 · « **Reply #11 on:** September, 04, 2011, 07:35:41 AM »

Quote from: Shaun on September, 04, 2011, 03:33:58 AM

+1. Run a big fat bead of RTV along the front and back, torque down the intake and wipe up what squeezes out.

+1, if you think about it, the end gasket is approx that thickness. I had approx the same gap installing an original alum manifold, just use a good bead of silicone. I also second using studs to guide the manifold into position. Cut the heads off 4 bolts and finger-screw them into the heads, then slide the manifold onto the studs and it'll help position the manifold correctly.

Ponyman66 · « **Reply #12 on:** September, 04, 2011, 08:57:24 AM »

Quote from: lethal289 on September, 03, 2011, 06:28:49 PM

use the right stuff and never look back.

This stuff is GREAT. It'll easily build a nice thick bead. When I dropped the intake on my 5.0 I didn't even think about end gaskets. Just laid down a nice fat bead and plopped the intake on. I don't think you'll have any problems with it Kat.

Starfury · « **Reply #13 on:** September, 04, 2011, 10:11:02 AM »

I prefer the caulk tube version, but yes, The Right Stuff is awesome. It will definitely seal that gap as long as everything's clean before assembly.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #14 on:** September, 04, 2011, 10:37:14 AM »

Ok went and bought some of that The Right Stuff, and while I was out decided to pick up some new intake bolts since the ones I had were, well, nasty and rusty. It took us stopping at SIX different parts stores to find them.

We could have gotten them at the first parts store we stopped at but the people there didn't know jack (hmm this topic sounds familiar lol). All the intake bolt sets we found were for chevy. If you asked counter folks... they were dumb founded because of course, if it isn't in their computer, they don't have anything that will work. Finally found someone at a store in the next town who actually KNEW his stuff and was able to find us some bolts that work.

Oh and I think I got lucky! I've been trying to find a dipstick & tube and I think I hit the jackpot. One of the stores sold them for Ford small blocks from 62-78. According to some folks on the other mustang forum, one for vintage ford 289/302 would work (be the correct length). So we'll see if this one I picked up works or not.