Ignitor I / Flamethrower Coil / Resistor Wire - UPDATE: Won't Start

[cmayna]

Agree with mid.  Do you have enough slack in the wiring to disconnect the switch from the dash for a easier view of the connections to the back of it?

[Sacbill]

Agree with mid.  Do you have enough slack in the wiring to disconnect the switch from the dash for a easier view of the connections to the back of it?

Yes, I do.  With the ashtray out, I have pretty good access without removing the switch.  If I do remove the switch for testing, does the case of it need to be grounded, since this normally makes contact with the dash?

[66benchcoupe]

If I do remove the switch for testing, does the case of it need to be grounded, since this normally makes contact with the dash?

No.

Robert

[Sacbill]

I figured out pretty quickly in moving the wires around in back of the ignition switch that the resistor wire/green-red wire were loose and could be easily moved around.  I pulled the switch out and tested for continuity using the reference in the shop manual.  Everything checked out okay, so it doesn't appear to be a problem with the switch.  (BTW, can anyone tell me what the "proof" position is for testing?)

In looking at the connector plug, the pink and green-red wires were moving in and out somewhat loosely.  My guess was that the pin on the ignition switch was not fully seating into the connector pin.  So, I carefully pressed the connector plug onto the switch and onto the pin and it's now much tighter.  Pulling on the wires doesn't move them and moving the wires around won't cause the car to stop running.

So, from now on, the mantra is: "CHECK THE IGNITION SWITCH, DUMMY!" 

QUESTION ABOUT ROAD TESTING:  I'm now testing the voltage while driving to make sure it's stable, not fluctuating or reducing as the car heats up.  I'm connecting the voltmeter negative to the negative battery post and the positive to the + post on the coil.  Correct?  Or should I use different connection points?

Thanks for all the help!

[cmayna]

Bill,
Keep in mind that at this rate you'll be done in no time with this project.  Then what are you going to do?  Sloooowwww  down.

 

[Midlife]

The Proof Circuit is a momentary signal sent to the idiot lights when you first turn the engine on to prove out that the lights still work.

[Sacbill]

Bill,
Keep in mind that at this rate you'll be done in no time with this project.  Then what are you going to do?  Sloooowwww  down.

 

You're so right! Just imagine what would happen if I were to do something like... oh... rebuild the motor? :-P

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[Midlife]

You're so right! Just imagine what would happen if I were to do something like... oh... rebuild the motor? :-P

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Won't internal combustion engines be banned by then?

[DEL65]

Wha..? Is it fixed?

[Sacbill]

Wha..? Is it fixed?

It should be, but I'll know more the further I drive it

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[cmayna]

Drive that sucka!   or do I need to come up to Sacto and "do it".

[jmbour66]

because I really want to see this thread continue I'm going to prompt a new question:
 
Can anyone tell me how to get to the resistor wire on my 73?  I can't figure out how to get the ignition assembly out.....

[Midlife]

For 1973, there are two wires off of the ignition: the pink resistor wire that goes to the green junction box behind the fuse box, and a green/red wire that goes to the fuse box itself. 

[jmbour66]

For 1973, there are two wires off of the ignition: the pink resistor wire that goes to the green junction box behind the fuse box, and a green/red wire that goes to the fuse box itself.

Do I need to cut the pink wire at the ignition and replace it?  If so, how do I get the ignition out of steering column?

[Midlife]

I'm clueless about how you take apart the steering column to get at the connector...maybe you don't.  It's a simple pull-apart connector.

If you cut the pink resistance wire, you'll have no signal going to the coil.  You need to cut the pink resistance wire just short of both ends and splice a 16 gauge wire onto the two stubs left over so that you have a bypassed wire.

[jmbour66]

I'm probably over/under thinking this; how long of a wire are we talking about?

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[Midlife]

The pink resistor wire is about 4 feet long, but the kicker is that it is hard to access within the green junction box area.  You'll have to unwrap part of the harness, dig it out, cut it, and splice into it.

[Mach1Rider]

Do I need to cut the pink wire at the ignition and replace it?  If so, how do I get the ignition out of steering column?

The ign switch is mounted onto the outside lower part of the colume and is held on by 2 nuts.
The resistor wire is in the main harness loom located behind the inster cluster.
Remove the cluster and unwrap the harness and look for a looping pink wire.

[jmbour66]

The ign switch is mounted onto the outside lower part of the colume and is held on by 2 nuts.
The resistor wire is in the main harness loom located behind the inster cluster.
Remove the cluster and unwrap the harness and look for a looping pink wire.

Okay, now i get it.  Thanks for the help, I'll tackle this on Saturday.