Author Topic: Step by step guide to rear leaf spring replacement (finishing up question) (Read 980 times)

cmayna · « **Reply #25 on:** August, 18, 2011, 12:13:58 PM »

Ok, Here's my dontation to society. This is replacing both springs at the same time. None of this whimpy one side at a time crap. I'm sure I might have left out some critical issues but it's for you elderly bozo's to find them. Yes if some errors are found, I will correct as we go along.

How I remove/replace rear leaf springs

1. Shoot some of your favorite penetrating oil/PB Blaster, etc on the rear shackle nuts, U bolt nuts and most importantly the big eye bolts up front, a couple days prior to taking on the project.

2. With the front wheels blocked, jack the back of car up via floor jack under the differential and place a couple floor stands under the body right in front of the rear wheels right next to where the front leaf connects to the body, making sure the stands are not in the way to remove the front leaf spring bolts. Assuming you have already removed the rear wheels, lower the backside down, resting the car on the floor stands. Lower the differential down a little further and remove both rear shocks from the shock support plate at the bottom.

3. Lower differential down all the way with the springs now fully supporting the differential, but keep the floor jack in place, under the pumpkin.

4. Unloosen the U bolts, watching for a gap to quickly develop between the axle housing spring perch and the spring itself. You might need to raise or lower the differential just a tad to ensure there's no loaded pressure. Once all 4 U bolts are loose, remove them and the shock plates. Afterwards I always raise the differential up a little ways to give you extra room to remove and install the leaf springs. Assuming you have an extra set of floor jacks, place them under the differential axle housing to support it while you are removing the old and installing the new leafs.

5. Disconnect the rear shackles and carefully lower the back end of the leafs to the ground being careful to not let the weight of the leaf spring catch you off guard. Once the back end of the leaf is disconnected, move up front and break loose the big front eyelet bolts and lower the front end of the leaf. Slide the old leafs out the back.

Install - Basically in reverse order of the above with the following additional comments.

a.Take advantage while everything is apart to clean up and paint the old parts you are going to reuse, rear frame rails, etc. Replace old rubber bushings where applicable.

b. Do not tighten up any of the bolts to spec. This will be done at the end after the car is back fully weighted on the ground.

c. Install front end of each spring then, raise back end up and then connect to your new or refurbished shackles. Lower the differential down onto the top of the springs, making sure the perch platform on each end of the differential axle housing is centered over the center bolt that holds the leafs together. The perch platform has a hole for this. Once in place, slightly snug up the U bolts with shock plates in position.

d. Raise differential a couple inches to allow you to install the shocks. Install the wheels.

e. Raise back end up further and remove the floor stands. Lower car to the ground and bounce the backside up and down really good to get everything settled.

f. Finally go and tighten up all shackle bolts, U bolts, front spring bolt and nuts to spec.

PM 65 · « **Reply #26 on:** August, 18, 2011, 12:18:11 PM »

nice description thanks!

abrahamfh · « **Reply #27 on:** August, 18, 2011, 01:27:24 PM »

Sorry for the delay guys. Wasnt feeling all that great last night. I have pics and all, should be all up tonight.

Tims65 · « **Reply #28 on:** August, 18, 2011, 05:47:38 PM »

Thanks everyone, seems pretty reasonable!
I'll let you know how it goes.

Tim

70 StangMan · « **Reply #29 on:** August, 18, 2011, 06:40:26 PM »

Quote from: Tims65 on August, 18, 2011, 05:47:38 PM

Thanks everyone, seems pretty reasonable!
I'll let you know how it goes.

Tim

It's kinda' like the night I told the wife "this can go the easy way or the hard way...but either way, it's going to happen". I wish you better luck and less medical bills than I got.

buening · « **Reply #30 on:** August, 25, 2011, 04:53:12 PM »

To save you some headache beforehand, take a look at your shock plates before you remove them and also take note which side is which. Mark them if you have to. I banged my head against the wall trying to reinstall my shock plates, only to realize they were on the wrong side of the car. The bolt pattern is almost square, but just off enough to make you wonder why the u-bolts don't slide on easily. I was using new u-bolts, which had me thinking the u-bolts were incorrect.

Tims65 · « **Reply #31 on:** September, 10, 2011, 05:48:35 PM »

Okay, I got into the leaf spring replacement today and have some more questions.

- I chocked the front wheels, front and back
- Jacked up the rear under the pumpkin
- Placed jack stands under my subframe connectors
- Removed rear wheels/tires
- Sprayed all of my bolts with WD40
- Removed my Traction Master Afco Spring rods
- Removed Shock double nuts
- Loosened all U-bolt nuts, then snugged one side back up
- Loosened the bottom shackel nuts on each side
- Broke Left front eyelet nut loose, (bashed my knuckles and elbow - eliciting extreme profanities that sent the neighbors running) the other is still soaking.
- Remove Left side spring plate
- Placed jack stands under the axle housings on the rear

So tomorrow I will drop the old leaf and hopefully install the new ones (I have a track day Wednesday that I don't want to miss!)
To drop the rear connection of the leaf spring, can I just remove the lower shackle nut or do I need to remove the entire shackle, top and bottom?

Any other tricks/thoughs?

Thanks everyone!
Tim

AzPete · « **Reply #32 on:** September, 10, 2011, 05:58:23 PM »

Just the bottom....but loosen the top to allow for some freedom to insert the new spring and bushings.

Do not tighten everything to specs until the weight is on the car. Do not over tighten the shackle bolts.

A bit of liquid soap makes the bushings slide in better if needed.

lethal289 · « **Reply #33 on:** September, 10, 2011, 06:10:24 PM »

What Pete Said.

I hope you do know there are a lot of better choices for a penetrating oil then WD40. Even PB Blaster is a world of difference.

Tims65 · « **Reply #34 on:** September, 10, 2011, 06:31:25 PM »

Quote from: lethal289 on September, 10, 2011, 06:10:24 PM

What Pete Said.

I hope you do know there are a lot of better choices for a penetrating oil then WD40. Even PB Blaster is a world of difference.

That's what I had in the garage! I did run a wire wheel across the exposed bolt threads to try to get the cleaned.
If I'm still having trouble with the other side, I'll run out and get some PB Blaster tomorrow.

Thanks for the tip.

Tim

Tims65 · « **Reply #35 on:** September, 13, 2011, 05:42:23 PM »

OK, so finally both springs are replaced!!!
Installation was a breeze, removal was a MF-PITA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So both front bolts are torqued down and the spring perch and shock are back in place and torqued.
I have the new rear shackles installed (rubber bushings, per Maier, for use with my panhard bar).
I have been told to set the car on it's tires and bounce the rear, then tighten the rear shackles.
After bouncing the rear I have a slightly different ride height from side to side.
How do I equalize my ride height?
How tight should I tighten the top and bottom shackle nuts?
Is there a specific angle I should try to set the shackle at?
Does the shackle angle affect ride height?

Hurry, I am heading to the track tomorrow morning at 6:00!!!

Thanks,
Tim

Midlife · « **Reply #36 on:** September, 13, 2011, 05:49:10 PM »

Loosen the front and rear spring bolts a bit, and go for a 2-3 mile drive. When you get back, bounce on the rear bumper a couple of times and then re-torque the leaf spring bolts without raising the car. You should be good to go.

AzPete · « **Reply #37 on:** September, 13, 2011, 06:20:19 PM »

+1.....but.....Do this prior to, not on the track........

Tims65 · « **Reply #38 on:** September, 13, 2011, 06:53:04 PM »

How tight do I tighten the shackles?

Tim

AzPete · « **Reply #39 on:** September, 14, 2011, 02:12:52 PM »

Just enough so there is no slop but not so tight they stop movement.....

Really, I am not sure if there is a setting for them.....it is just one of those things I just go so tight and stop.

Some bolts have a different size shank the shackle hits but don't think the Mustangs do....

Tons of help...right.....lol