Author Topic: Wanna start a 70' fastback restomod (Read 1175 times)

Spetsnaz · « **on:** August, 08, 2011, 03:46:19 PM »

Hi guys, looking to pick up a 1970 fastback. Few questions for u all. First off how much should I be paying for a kinda rusty body with all parts? Meaning engine/suspension/wheels/all body panels. There's one in the area for $7000 and I'll be looking at it shortly. Also I'd like to have a pretty strong motor once it's finished. Is it better to fix and mod the existing? Or buy a new crate engine? Also I'd be looking at swapping to more modern brakes with bigger wheels, probably 18's. And of course do a nice suspension upgrade. Would that require any modds to the wheel wells? Thanks guys for ur help..... Looking forward to starting this build.

manley · « **Reply #1 on:** August, 08, 2011, 03:58:57 PM »

What does "kinda rusty" mean? It's defined differently depending on where you are. Kinda rusty in the midwest is not the same as kinda rusty in southern California.

My car was way more rusty in the areas I couldn't see than in the areas I could see. I knew it was going to be a major project, but I very much underestimated.

When you go to look, see if you can get the owner to put the car up on a lift... you won't regret it.

silverblueBP · « **Reply #2 on:** August, 08, 2011, 04:10:28 PM »

Whatever you do, please...please do not add one of those gaudy, ginormous bird catcher scoops to the hood. There's a guy on this site that already has one of those!

$7k seems kinda high for a rusty body, but I haven't bought an old car in many years. Look at it like this; add up all the things you'd need to fix and add, PLUS the cost of the car. Double that and see if it's too high for you.

Spetsnaz · « **Reply #3 on:** August, 08, 2011, 04:46:34 PM »

I guess I'll see how rusty it is when I see it in person. From the picture it looks pretty good but obviously there probably is rust in hidden areas. I'll definitely check the car thoughraly. R u talking about the shaker hood scope? Didn't the boss come with that stock? I'll make it my own, it definitely won't be all original. I understand this won't be cheap but that's the car I want to own, and want to do as much of the work myself...... Even if this takes a year or 2

silverblueBP · « **Reply #4 on:** August, 08, 2011, 05:03:47 PM »

Nah, I'm talking about this yellow stork catcher

Spetsnaz · « **Reply #5 on:** August, 08, 2011, 05:12:40 PM »

Can't really see too much from that pic..... It's kinda dark. I'd probably do the shaker scope. Any thoughts on the motor? The one I'm gonna look at comes with a 302 auto. I'd really like a 5 speed manual. I've seen a boss 302 crate for about $5-6k I think it's a decent price for what it is. They claim it pushes 375hp I'd probably want around 450-500. Is that reliably possible for the 302 or am I gonna need to go bigger?

silverblueBP · « **Reply #6 on:** August, 08, 2011, 05:33:30 PM »

I built my own motor (multiple times unfortunately) with the help of a good friend. Never gone the crate motor route. Hopefully others will chime in on this one. If you get a stoked 302, HP your range is not out of grasp.

I'm just messing around about the scoop, a shaker type scoop is always a good choice.

FordDude · « **Reply #7 on:** August, 08, 2011, 06:12:46 PM »

I saw these parts for a 70 Mustang this morning on craigslist.

That would be front fenders and click on the pic to see the add.
fd

SAC69 · « **Reply #8 on:** August, 08, 2011, 08:20:54 PM »

Are you familiar with Mustangs? Do you know where to check for potential rust? (front and rr frame rails, floor, trunk drop-off's, behind the wheels and in the corners of the doors, shock towers where they meet the rails, cowl)

$7k might be a decent deal if it's just surface rust, if you're talking about rusted floors or frame rails then $7k may be high for a non-Mach, 302 auto. It just "depends."

I'd not limit myself only to a stroked 302, a 351 will fit in there nicely.

18" rims do not require wheel flare modifications, you just need the proper rim backspace to keep it tucked in. Check the "wheel & tire" thread for a few 69-70's with some big rubber.

Good luck.

Spetsnaz · « **Reply #9 on:** August, 08, 2011, 09:46:09 PM »

Thanks guys for all the advice. Ya I'm fairly new to the mustangs. But I'll be looking in every crack of the car before I decide. I'm just trying to get an idea of what a none restored one should go for. And as far as the engine size goes, I'm up for pretty much any. As long as it has big reliable hp numbers. I'll end up keeping this car for a long time and give it to my son later, I'm 26 now and my boy is 3 1/2 years old. Please add anything else that I should look at and or think about. Thanks

Horseplay · « **Reply #10 on:** August, 09, 2011, 04:46:21 AM »

Quote from: Spetsnaz on August, 08, 2011, 04:46:34 PM

...... Even if this takes a year or 2

While you're doubling your expected cost to get a "real" figure, you should also probably add some more time as well. These things seem to always drag out.

cmayna · « **Reply #11 on:** August, 09, 2011, 05:32:59 AM »

And here I could have saved you some major grief by selling the boss 302 to you.

Of course all you would have had to do to the car is drive the beast.

Nonetheless, you might hook up with a couple local (where's your location) Mustanger's who can maybe go with you to look at some cars. Do you have the space for a car while it is torn apart?

But most importantly, welcome to the Fix.

Grabber70Mach · « **Reply #12 on:** August, 09, 2011, 06:04:37 AM »

All good advice so far and Welcome to the fix.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

67GTRag · « **Reply #13 on:** August, 09, 2011, 06:42:40 AM »

Quote from: Horseplay on August, 09, 2011, 04:46:21 AM

While you're doubling your expected cost to get a "real" figure, you should also probably add some more time as well. These things seem to always drag out.

Ain't that the truth. I purchased my 67 vert back in 93 thinking I could get it done in a year or two...... 18 years later I hope to be back on the road by the end of the month.

Horseplay · « **Reply #14 on:** August, 09, 2011, 07:15:16 AM »

Quote from: 67GTRag on August, 09, 2011, 06:42:40 AM

Ain't that the truth. I purchased my 67 vert back in 93 thinking I could get it done in a year or two...... 18 years later I hope to be back on the road by the end of the month.

You just made me feel a whole lot better about my progress! Thanks!

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #15 on:** August, 09, 2011, 07:48:32 AM »

Quote from: Horseplay on August, 09, 2011, 04:46:21 AM

While you're doubling your expected cost to get a "real" figure, you should also probably add some more time as well. These things seem to always drag out.

That's the truth!!

You really have no clue how good or bad of shape the car is in until you start taking apart. Then you get the "while I'm at it..." and next thing you know you have 90% of the car in pieces and its months ...years... and $20,000 later.

gtscode · « **Reply #16 on:** August, 09, 2011, 10:04:26 AM »

Welcome! I agree with others double your time and your money, triple it if you aren't good at estimating what it's going to take.

A nice high end job restoration will cost you about $40,000 or much more depending on paint and how wild you want to go in the suspension and drive train. I have way too much money and time into my 67 Fastback, and it's worth much less. I have 5 plus years into it and I am mostly done but still have a lot of interior work to do. Almost everything on my car is new or restored from the bolts and wires to every engine and drive train component. I wasted a good bit of money changing directions and going a little more mod from stock, but picked a nice balance.

My advice by one done that you like. However I have made great friends and learned a ton in the process, just know what you are getting into.

KBMWRS · « **Reply #17 on:** August, 09, 2011, 02:38:57 PM »

If you get the car...I'd suggest NOT buying a engine right away. Step back and fix the car to where you want it first....the engine would be toward the end of the restoration. No sense in spending that cash just to have it sit in a corner waiting for the car.

70_Fastback · « **Reply #18 on:** August, 09, 2011, 02:56:10 PM »

Quote from: silverblueBP on August, 08, 2011, 04:10:28 PM

.... There's a guy on this site that already has one of those!....

Spetsnaz · « **Reply #19 on:** August, 09, 2011, 03:46:57 PM »

Thanks guys for all the advice. I'm trying to get a hold of the seller of the car to check it out. I guess that's a good point on not worrying about the motor. Also if this takes even 5 years I'm cool with that...... My dad has a huge shop with plenty of room so storage of the car is not a problem. I'll just keep checking out other threads and see what I can learn. I live in the Seattle area by the way, if anyone has their build for me to see I'd love to check it out. Thanks guys for being so helpful

Spetsnaz · « **Reply #20 on:** August, 09, 2011, 06:28:37 PM »

Hey quick question..... Is it possible to do a 70 front end on a 69? It looks similar but obviously different. I'm liking the side vents on the 69. Also just saw today a few streets away from me a blue 69 fastback in pretty good shape. Thinking about afforing the owner some cash for it. I'll snap some shots and post them, maybe u guys can help me figure a fair price for it.

SAC69 · « **Reply #21 on:** August, 09, 2011, 07:24:56 PM »

I believe you can install a '70 ft end on a '69. For the look you're requesting, it's the fenders, headlight buckets and grill you'd need. The bumper and hood and valance will interchange.

Spetsnaz · « **Reply #22 on:** August, 09, 2011, 07:38:42 PM »

Awesome :) ya I really like the vents on the sides of the 69 but like the front of the 70 better. Thanks for the reply..... Anyone have any pics of this done by any chance?