Author Topic: T5 Noise (Read 1069 times)

mmw68 · « **on:** June, 24, 2011, 05:21:40 PM »

I've got a noise in my T5, and it's a burrrrr, or click, click, click - almost like a 2x4 across fan blades.

- It only happens when I put pressure on the clutch pedal. Even the slitest pressure, and all the way thru to the floor.
- It's goes up with RPM, when Iam shifting gear at speeds
- seems to be a little quieter after the car is hot

Now - everything was new when we put in the engine & tranny.

A few months ago we had this noise, and I took it to a very trusted tranny shop I use. The pulled everything out, and found that the fly wheel was touching the starter. So they shimmed the starter, and the noise went away.

Any Ideas?

AzPete · « **Reply #1 on:** June, 24, 2011, 06:14:01 PM »

Throw out bearing

pressure plate fingers

starter as you had before

Do you "feel" the noise in the pedal or anything?

mmw68 · « **Reply #2 on:** June, 24, 2011, 06:21:10 PM »

I don't feel anything, I just hear this noise.

Quote from: AzPete on June, 24, 2011, 06:14:01 PM

Throw out bearing

pressure plate fingers

starter as you had before

Do you "feel" the noise in the pedal or anything?

Fast68back · « **Reply #3 on:** June, 24, 2011, 06:43:34 PM »

What clutch setup are you using? Cable? Hyd? Z bar?

mmw68 · « **Reply #4 on:** June, 24, 2011, 07:29:38 PM »

It's a cable clutch.

It's the pedal kit from http://www.mustangsteve.com/cable.html

1987 302 Block
Mustang T-5 5 speed transmission with bellhousing (from 84 GT - Not World Class)
New Ford Racing steel flywheel
New Valeo clutch kit

mmw68 · « **Reply #5 on:** June, 24, 2011, 07:33:05 PM »

Also bought a new spacer plate:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=AB40+01

BELLHOUSING SPACER PLATE, SB FORD T-5 CONVERSION
Bellhousing Spacer Plate for 6-bolt 289/302/351 Ford w/ T-5 5-speed Conversion using a late-model bellhousing.

This 1/16" steel plate is located between the bell housing and the engine block. Use when converting to a T-5 5-speed and using its late-model bellhousing.

Fast68back · « **Reply #6 on:** June, 24, 2011, 07:59:00 PM »

Cable touching/rubbing anywhere? IIRC, Mustang Steve kit uses a shorter cable, I know the Ron Morris cable damn near runs from the firewall to the radiator support before it turns down and runs under the engine. Can you feel it in the pedal or just hear the noise?

mmw68 · « **Reply #7 on:** June, 24, 2011, 08:05:54 PM »

It is the shorter cable, but it's not touching anything. I don't feel it in the pedal. I just hear the noise.

B67FSTB · « **Reply #8 on:** June, 24, 2011, 10:06:19 PM »

Throw out bearing I presume.
Maybe you can spray some lubricant on this bearing by pulling away the clutch cable dust cap.
Use a little ceramic lubricant and spray a little on the throw out bearing.
Watch out for overspray as it can ruins the clutch itself.
Did anybody did this too.
I think this method can be use to pinpoint the problem ( not solve ).

cmayna · « **Reply #9 on:** June, 25, 2011, 05:10:16 AM »

Sounds like it worth trying Bruno's idea as long as you can keep the spray away from the clutch surface. At worst case it would help eliminate one possibility.

mmw68 · « **Reply #10 on:** June, 25, 2011, 05:13:05 AM »

Iam headed down to my friend's shop this am, to use his lift. I'll let you know what I find! Thanks - Mark

tarafied1 · « **Reply #11 on:** June, 25, 2011, 07:48:57 AM »

I heard a similar noise on my SHO before the pressure plate came apart...

mmw68 · « **Reply #12 on:** June, 25, 2011, 07:56:18 AM »

Here is what we found this morning, - it was busy at the shop, due to the annual "work on your own car" shop day at my friends' shop.

The noise is very repetitious. You could play music to the beat. It sounds like a bolt head or something?? Next step is to remove the starter and see if we can see anything. About about 3 months ago the noise went away when we replaced the starter with two washers to shim it out . Maybe the gear on the starter is not retracting enough? Or the headers heat is effecting it again?

Iam going to have to go back to the shop when there is not so many people around, just too much socializing going on this am.

tarafied1 · « **Reply #13 on:** June, 25, 2011, 07:58:18 AM »

I hope it's nothing serious. It seams odd to me that you would have to shim the starter. I have never heard of that on a Ford before.

mmw68 · « **Reply #14 on:** June, 25, 2011, 08:06:54 AM »

Yeah - I agree. I really need to find a very good Ford guy in Austin, Iam not having any luck yet.

I've been told that http://www.moorespeed.com is good and actually have reasonable rates.

B67FSTB · « **Reply #15 on:** June, 25, 2011, 10:36:05 AM »

There is a differents in starters if you have an automatic or manual gearbox/trans.
Any serious mustang catalog will tell you.

tarafied1 · « **Reply #16 on:** June, 25, 2011, 10:38:33 AM »

Quote from: B67FSTB on June, 25, 2011, 10:36:05 AM

There is a differents in starters if you have an automatic or manual gearbox/trans.
Any serious mustang catalog will tell you.

yes but I believe that it would be a problem starting if it was the wrong starter and not an issue with the clutch being pressed in.

B67FSTB · « **Reply #17 on:** June, 25, 2011, 11:32:58 AM »

I think that the nose of a starter for automatic is slightly longer then the nose of a starter for manual transmission.
I had this quirrel when i started the engine the first time after I changed from auto to a 5sp manual.
I didn't shim anything but looked it up in the catalog and had per accident one laying around.Lucky me.
Thats what I had encounter regarding starters and transmissions.

6t6red · « **Reply #18 on:** June, 25, 2011, 12:29:27 PM »

This may be far fetched but could you have too much play in the crank shaft. Pushing in the clutch could push the crank forward causing the flywheel to be hitting something.

mmw68 · « **Reply #19 on:** June, 25, 2011, 01:11:37 PM »

How would one check that?

Fast68back · « **Reply #20 on:** June, 25, 2011, 01:35:58 PM »

I think if that were the issue he would feel a helluva vibration. Since its only when pedal is engaged i would follow the trail, pedal, pedal return spring (should have been removed), cable, lever, TO, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel.... Eliminate them one at a time

mmw68 · « **Reply #21 on:** June, 25, 2011, 01:38:10 PM »

pedal return spring (should have been removed).....

I should not be using it?

Midlife · « **Reply #22 on:** June, 25, 2011, 01:47:30 PM »

Quote from: mmw68 on June, 25, 2011, 01:38:10 PM

pedal return spring (should have been removed).....

I should not be using it?

They can be removed if you are using a diaphragm clutch. If you are using a standard 3-finger clutch, you must use it.

For testing, you can remove the return spring under the dash, but you'll have to pull the clutch pedal back up off the floor manually. Otherwise, it is only used for assisting pushing in and returning the clutch pedal from the half-way point.

66gt350 · « **Reply #23 on:** June, 25, 2011, 02:52:22 PM »

Quote from: B67FSTB on June, 25, 2011, 10:36:05 AM

There is a differents in starters if you have an automatic or manual gearbox/trans.
Any serious mustang catalog will tell you.

You use an automatic starter with a t5 or tko transmission. I'm running the same starter with my tko as when I had the c4 installed.

Quote from: Midlife on June, 25, 2011, 01:47:30 PM

They can be removed if you are using a diaphragm clutch. If you are using a standard 3-finger clutch, you must use it.

Is that for cable or hydraulic clutches? I'm using the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing with a custom Hayes clutch, which is a long style clutch (three finger). I removed the spring from under the dash. I haven't had any issues with the clutch.