Author Topic: Explorer 8.8 build DIY COMPLETE!!! (Read 3350 times)

ZFORCE · « **Reply #25 on:** May, 28, 2011, 01:19:41 AM »

Nice write up. Is that 4 link a kit or did you put it together yourself? Can you post more info on it? Thanks

67FSTBKRestoMod · « **Reply #26 on:** June, 03, 2011, 12:23:22 AM »

no, i wish i could say i fabbed that but some things aren't cost effective to make and this is one of em. its the airbar 2000 kit from ridtech, great kit decent price very easy install, i'll let you know how it handles when i get this puppy on the road.
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/airbar/1964-1970-ford-mustang-airbar-system.html

ZFORCE · « **Reply #27 on:** June, 06, 2011, 02:06:31 PM »

Thanks for the link. I prefer to re invent the wheel and fab myself...well at least my budget does. Any chance you could post more pics of the 4 link setup...maybe a brighter flash? Thanks

67FSTBKRestoMod · « **Reply #28 on:** June, 19, 2011, 12:19:22 PM »

here ya r

ZFORCE · « **Reply #29 on:** June, 22, 2011, 04:19:04 PM »

Thanks for the pics! I've been busy lately, so sorry for the late response. Was there a template for the upper mounts, to place them prior to welding the brackets? If not, how did you determine the angles?

67FSTBKRestoMod · « **Reply #30 on:** June, 22, 2011, 08:01:29 PM »

Quote from: ZFORCE on June, 22, 2011, 04:19:04 PM

Thanks for the pics! I've been busy lately, so sorry for the late response. Was there a template for the upper mounts, to place them prior to welding the brackets? If not, how did you determine the angles?

not a prob, it actually took me some time to get them posted as well. No template, i basically installed everything (loose) centered the axle using plumbbobs and used a digital angle finder to set the pinion angle. normally i would have taken the angle off the tranny for 100% accuracy but no engine/tranny so i went with the general consensus that its about 3* pos... up whatever it is. (the 3* is from the rocker) the upper links are adjustable so you can fine tune the angel. once centered and angle correct i tack welded them in place, took her out welded completely up, painted and stuck back in.
hope that helps if not shot back.

ZFORCE · « **Reply #31 on:** June, 23, 2011, 10:28:39 PM »

Thanks, I guess I should've been more clear. I was wondering about templates for the upper link brackets that were welded to the axle tubes in your pictures, not the pinion angle. Since those upper brackets needed to be put on the axle in the correct spot and orientation, I was wondering how the kit guided you.

lethal289 · « **Reply #32 on:** July, 03, 2011, 06:49:50 PM »

Wow, i must have missed this the first time around. Awesome build. Thanks for the pics too. It leaves me wondering though, if most people use spacers to use modern wheels, what wheels do you have planned for a rear end thats almost 3 inches shorter then stock? Am i correct in thinking that they would have to have a back spacing of 6 or 7 inchs? It doesnt look like you mini tubbed it or did you?

67FSTBKRestoMod · « **Reply #33 on:** July, 11, 2011, 07:03:14 PM »

zforce, the directions don't tell u much, i'm sure you can go to ur website and download the actual install instructions. i bolted everything up including the 2 upper links with the mounting tabs for the axle tubes bolted to the link itself. with angle set and everything lined up the mounting brackets sit on the axle tubes, tack welded them where they sat, pulled out and fully welded them.

lethal, the backspacing would depend on the wheel size, i went far from stock. got some foose injectors 18x9 with 4.25 backspacing(perfect fit)

if that doesn't help i'll keep trying
-brad

robrod1 · « **Reply #34 on:** September, 05, 2011, 08:05:09 PM »

i got one question, if i got myself a 8.8 out of a v-8 explorer with 3.73 track lock, do i have to change axels and shorten tubes if i want to place it into a 67 mustang, or is it that all i have to do is relocate perches? why do you have to shorten one side? thanks

robrod1 · « **Reply #35 on:** September, 05, 2011, 08:09:04 PM »

im askin because i was at a pick and pull and crawled under 3 explorers and 2 with 350 gears and one with 3.73s. i am planning on going back two pick one out preferably the 3.73... what do yall think

lethal289 · « **Reply #36 on:** September, 06, 2011, 03:29:04 AM »

They fit. There are plenty of people who just relocate the perchs and bolt them in. supposedly, if you get an all aluminum drive shaft from a two wheel drive explorer that makes the transition to a C4 and is the perfect length. The thing that concerns me is the offset pinion angle. Plenty of people run them with the offset angle. Meaning the motor, transmission and drive shaft run down the center of the car. The explorer rear end is offset nearly 3 inchs to one side. It is possible with the added angle that you can get some drive line vibrations and possibly have problems with u joints. Again many people are doing it and reporting no problems.

The other issue is that with the offset housing, the pinion snout is no longer in the trans tunnel, so it may contact the floor board of you car before the bump stops contact the housing. This can be solved by hammering some clearance into the floor.

If you have duel exhaust, it may need to be adjusted in order to clear the offset housing as well.

Hope that helps.

hsr65 · « **Reply #37 on:** January, 27, 2012, 03:36:38 PM »

Quote from: 67FSTBKRestoMod on March, 26, 2011, 06:47:04 PM

to narrow it i first drilled out the plugs, starting with a smaller bit and working up to a 1/2 inch. I then used a chisel and hammer to smosh in the the head of the plug and pop it out. Then i used a 10 ton body ram to push the axle tube out, first marking the tube and diff housing for reference points for reinsert

markings

Can you elaborate on this part of your build a little bit please?

The ID of the axle tubes are larger in diameter than the casting where the shims/spacers go outside of the main bearings/caps (as shown in your second picture). The tubes are within 0.125" of being bottomed out on the casting (in out from centerline of the car), so I can't see anywhere to apply the ram of a cylinder to actually push the tube out from inside the gear housing.

Thanks for the whole posting and in advance for the additional help.

Jeff

stangg · « **Reply #38 on:** January, 27, 2012, 03:48:54 PM »

I don't *think* he pressed it out from the inside... My understanding / interpretation was that the ram was placed right where he has it shown. When pumped up, the left side sets on the center housing, and the ram pushed against the spring perch on the right side. I wouldn't image it would take much force given the plug welds are removed.

hsr65 · « **Reply #39 on:** January, 27, 2012, 04:30:04 PM »

Quote from: stangg on January, 27, 2012, 03:48:54 PM

...pushed against the spring perch on the right side.

Stangg,

Thanks. Make sense. Guess what I just finished cutting off of my housing... Maybe I can use an extension bar and get all the way out to the bracket that the brake plate mounts to.

lethal289 · « **Reply #40 on:** January, 27, 2012, 04:48:52 PM »

Quote from: hsr65 on January, 27, 2012, 04:30:04 PM

Stangg,

Thanks. Make sense. Guess what I just finished cutting off of my housing... Maybe I can use an extension bar and get all the way out to the bracket that the brake plate mounts to.

you dont want to do that... i wanted to press both tubes out of my housing, and ripped the end flange clean off of the tube on the small side. it also folded one of the leaf perches over. Mine had some rust and took quite a bit of effort to pop the tube out. a 4 ton ram wasn't enough. a 10 ton was needed.

hsr65 · « **Reply #41 on:** January, 27, 2012, 05:16:43 PM »

Quote from: lethal289 on January, 27, 2012, 04:48:52 PM

you dont want to do that... i wanted to press both tubes out of my housing, and ripped the end flange clean off of the tube on the small side. it also folded one of the leaf perches over. Mine had some rust and took quite a bit of effort to pop the tube out. a 4 ton ram wasn't enough. a 10 ton was needed.

So what are you thinking/suggesting, welding the sway bar bracket back on temporarily?