Author Topic: Quick questions on cowl removal (Read 1748 times)

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #50 on:** April, 07, 2011, 09:59:14 AM »

Another stupid question... Where do the jack stands go in the rear when the whole car will be on stands? I've found a few thing online that say put them on the frame rails & some say axle..

...and I assume since Gert is already on stands in the front, in order to jack up the rear and not have her tip over, place the jack under a central part in the rear, like the pumpkin?

AzPete · « **Reply #51 on:** April, 07, 2011, 10:10:31 AM »

If you are going to remove the rear axle....put stands on the rear frame.

If you want the car solid while working on the cowl and front end..... put the stands on the rear frame.

Watch the front jack stands as you lift the rear. You can jack under the rear axle/pumpkin just fine but make sure the jack rolls a bit and the stands do not tip at the front rails.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #52 on:** April, 07, 2011, 10:14:07 AM »

Thanks! I'll be lifting very slowly to make sure the front doesn't fall. That would be bad! LOL

S8NS 289 · « **Reply #53 on:** April, 07, 2011, 10:37:28 AM »

Quote from: Kats66Pny on April, 04, 2011, 03:52:33 PM

Am I suppose to drill a little hole for the tip to fit in? If I do that... well that makes no sense because I was told not to go through all the metal, only one layer.

I would clean the part you are removing around the edges you can usually feel/see a spot weld better, I like to mark them all with a paint marker, on the ones that are flat/easy to get to i scribed with a center punch and hammer, the more difficult ones i used a 1/8'' drill bit, be careful of uneven surfaces the bit will walk all over the place take your time, you will get a feel for it after doing it a couple times, on my car a rust cloud would puff up when i was through the first piece as for the jack placement i agree with pete. under the frame rail/torque box in front of the leaf springs

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #54 on:** April, 07, 2011, 10:40:37 AM »

Quote from: S8NS 289 on April, 07, 2011, 10:37:28 AM

WOOD blocks looks scary

S8NS 289 · « **Reply #55 on:** April, 07, 2011, 10:59:19 AM »

lol, i like them better than jack stands especially the cheap o's they make now, three little pot metal legs welded by chung dong

city people

jk...

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #56 on:** April, 07, 2011, 05:13:24 PM »

I got Gert on 4 jacks, all set to same height and her front is slightly higher than her rear. My garage floor is level btw. Is it suppose to be level or level like the way it rides normally?

The rear tires are still on the ground.

And I can't lift the front any higher because my jack doesn't go any higher. lol

AzPete · « **Reply #57 on:** April, 07, 2011, 05:24:50 PM »

Quote from: Kats66Pny on April, 07, 2011, 05:13:24 PM

I got Gert on 4 jacks, all set to same height and her front is slightly higher than her rear. My garage floor is level btw. Is it suppose to be level or level like the way it rides normally?

The rear tires are still on the ground. And I can't lift the front any higher because my jack doesn't go any higher. lol

One would normally set the car level I believe. The level of the ride would be based on the entire suspension. I am not sure if the frame rails would be level.....been a while since I had one that far down.

Also, what does not being able to lift the front have to do with getting the rear up higher...... You should have the rear tires off the ground....or remove them from the car to ensure you have all the weight on the stands.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #58 on:** April, 07, 2011, 06:22:42 PM »

Well I think it's level now.

I took the leveler and put it on several places and it showed the bubble in the center.

AzPete · « **Reply #59 on:** April, 07, 2011, 06:52:02 PM »

Looks perfect...... I would consider 4 more stands.....at the front and rear ends of the frame rails.....that way it cannot bend in the middle when you disassemble things.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #60 on:** April, 09, 2011, 11:52:44 AM »

spot welds can go to hell.

That is all. Have a nice day.

AzPete · « **Reply #61 on:** April, 09, 2011, 12:00:40 PM »

Quote from: Kats66Pny on April, 09, 2011, 11:52:44 AM

spot welds can go to hell.

Maybe so....but they still have to come out....the joys of Mustang restoration.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #62 on:** April, 09, 2011, 12:54:51 PM »

Only minor injuries so far. Blister on my hand, scraped up my arm, and cut my middle finger. lol The cowl is almost out. There's a few area's that are being stubborn... the top corners near the window. There's no spot weld.. looks to be a long weld. If I can just get those two corners off, the cowl can come out.

Gigantopithecus · « **Reply #63 on:** April, 09, 2011, 01:30:25 PM »

They're braised together at the top. Found that out the hard way after removing all 8 billion spot welds.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #64 on:** April, 09, 2011, 02:15:02 PM »

Nothing a metal cutting wheel and a pry bar didn't fix. This cowl is seriously ticking me off. No wonder everyone HATES doing this. Back to the garage to yell some more unfriendly words while my neighbors stare at me and laugh.

guruatbol · « **Reply #65 on:** April, 09, 2011, 03:45:01 PM »

Words we have all been forced to use those words.

When you are done it will just be a fond memory.

Mel

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #66 on:** April, 09, 2011, 03:51:00 PM »

The worst part is over!!!!

(see my build thread)

Now I just have to do some cleaning things up (easy), and get the new one prepped and welded in (thanks to someone else who gets to deal with that!).