Author Topic: Hell of a Monday - Thrust Bearing gone! (Read 843 times)

mmw68 · « **on:** March, 14, 2011, 09:00:22 AM »

So Iam driving the mustang on Saturday, and I hear a noise that sounds like a 2x4 across fan blades every-time I push the clutch in. So I pull into a gas station and they let me put the car up on the lift. We where able to move the Harmonic balancer forward/backward about a 1/4 inch!

Dropped it off to my trusted Mechanic this am, and waiting for a phone call.

Hell of a Monday.

B67FSTB · « **Reply #1 on:** March, 14, 2011, 09:25:48 AM »

A loose bolt that holds the balancer.Hope that oil seal is not damaged.

mmw68 · « **Reply #2 on:** March, 14, 2011, 10:37:12 AM »

I hope it's that simple.

RyanG85 · « **Reply #3 on:** March, 14, 2011, 01:11:04 PM »

Does not sound as simple as a bolt...... If the balancer is moving back and forth and you hear the noise when you push on the clutch...... Sounds like a bad deal.... Did you check the oil?

02Lightning · « **Reply #4 on:** March, 15, 2011, 08:13:06 AM »

Ugh.... I bought a truck once that was like that, 302 2v. It was a broken crank shaft and it still ran!

mmw68 · « **Reply #5 on:** March, 15, 2011, 08:16:00 AM »

Plenty of Oil! ;) I got a quick VM from my shop, and It might not be so bad, I hope to get over there today to grab some details. -mark

mmw68 · « **Reply #6 on:** March, 22, 2011, 07:07:21 AM »

It's not looking good...

We have check a bunch of things, and we keep coming back to the Thrust bearing. So now Iam trying to decide what to do - entire engine rebuild?
Just buy a short block? Well - this is going to eat up the rest of my budget! ;(

B67FSTB · « **Reply #7 on:** March, 22, 2011, 09:06:51 AM »

some pics ??

mmw68 · « **Reply #8 on:** March, 22, 2011, 09:39:17 AM »

Headed over there now - hopefully I can grab some pictures.

Mach1Rider · « **Reply #9 on:** March, 22, 2011, 03:24:18 PM »

If your running a hyd throwout bearing, a improperly adjusted one will cause the thrust bearing to wear and the noise your having.
Even the standard mech clutch linkage not having enough freeplay can cause this damage also.

mmw68 · « **Reply #10 on:** March, 22, 2011, 03:34:51 PM »

I sure hope, a few days of driving on a tight adjusted clutch would not do this. If so It's been a expensive lesson for me.

Mach1Rider · « **Reply #11 on:** March, 22, 2011, 03:47:14 PM »

Sorry to bear bad news... But yes it could have.
The over extension of the throwout bearing causes excess pressure on to the flywheel and crank.
While it may not seem like much to your left leg, Leverage from the linkage will easily double the pressure applied to the plate fingers which
can only move so far before it is transfered to the crank.

mmw68 · « **Reply #12 on:** March, 23, 2011, 08:21:28 AM »

I had a chance to go buy Ike's Tranny shop this morning, and discuss what he found. I do not think it the engine problem now. Here is what is going on, and took the car for a drive today as well. Engine sounds great while in gear, and at idle.

He did the following:
1. Shortened drive shaft
2. Replace flex plate

Looking at the picture of the old one - something is rubbing! I am not sure if you can see this in the picture, but the marks towards the top have sliced all the way thru the plate.

The noise now only happens when you push the clutch pedal in. Starts about mid way thru the push, and as long as the clutch is in - or the pedal is pressed down, you get this squeak, squeak, squeak, vey repetitious, like something is hitting when the spinning is going on. The volume of the squeak has gone down about 50% with these new changes.

He is going to work on it a little more today, but I feel this is good news!

RyanG85 · « **Reply #13 on:** March, 23, 2011, 08:24:12 AM »

If the harmonic balancer has excessive movement, you have engine problems....

mmw68 · « **Reply #14 on:** March, 23, 2011, 08:26:56 AM »

Yes - I agree, and we will be looking into that today! Several folks have told me that. THANKS! -Mark

Horseplay · « **Reply #15 on:** March, 23, 2011, 08:30:33 AM »

If you really have that much crankshaft end play you need to stop running it and pull it. You're only risking/causing more damage and expense.

mmw68 · « **Reply #16 on:** March, 23, 2011, 08:44:45 AM »

I agree, and I will pull the engine if that is what we decide it is. I'll post up some measurements when I hear back from the shop.

B67FSTB · « **Reply #17 on:** March, 23, 2011, 08:46:56 AM »

When the crankshaft moves fort and aft , I think your No3 crankshaft bearing is worn on its flanks/side .

Here some pics :

B67FSTB · « **Reply #18 on:** March, 23, 2011, 08:53:43 AM »

The 3rd main bearing has a different shape and I think this bearing holts the crankshaft inplace regarding fort and back play.
see pic : its different then the other bearings.

Horseplay · « **Reply #19 on:** March, 23, 2011, 08:55:13 AM »

Normal end play should be no more than .004-.008". If it is moving anything close to that 1/4" statement, he's got way more than just some bearing damage. Crank and block are probably shot too. It'll run that way..for a while so don't let yourself be fooled. That's why I say pull that thing and take a look at the bottom end before you really do need to invest in a whole new shortblock.

mmw68 · « **Reply #20 on:** March, 23, 2011, 09:05:53 AM »

What is the best method to mesure the end play while the engine is in the car? It seems like everyone has a opinion on this. ;)

Mach1Rider · « **Reply #21 on:** March, 23, 2011, 09:15:49 AM »

I use a magnet based dial guage on the block and pry the flywheel out then push it forward.
From that pic you posted of the blockplate wear from the backside of your flywheel, it has some internal problems.
My guess its eather the thrust bearing worn or the crankshaft had been turned too far on the #3 main where the thrust bearing face is.

65fast · « **Reply #22 on:** March, 23, 2011, 09:17:14 AM »

I would take the balance off the front and put the indicator base on your oil pan and the dial indicator on the crank snout.

Horseplay · « **Reply #23 on:** March, 23, 2011, 09:20:41 AM »

As long as you have your dial indicator and block firmly held stationary it really doesn't matter so long as you are measuring the travel of the crank itself.